m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

The louvers on your yard tractor would be perfect on your hood. And wow, what an improvement on the mani/dp!

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

I saw a pic somewhere a year or so ago of someone that cut the skeleton out of their stock hood and had an old hotrod shop press/cut in real deal louvers. He had them do like 2 or 3 columns on each side of the power bulge. It looked really sick. I'd love to have something like it done, but I wouldn't trust the job with just anyone and I don't know a shop near me that can do it.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Well, at Nubbin's request I charged the battery for my Sony digicam. So the following pics should be much higher quality. I mounted the Tial and fabbed the remainder of the DP. I also rerouted the heater return so that it is no longer in the way, or any issue. I am using the stock pipe with oring and just chopped it off after 90deg. I welded on a little tab and I'm holding it on with a worm clamp. The tab will keep the hose from pushing out under pressure.

I also got my new G-Style lip in from Touge (sp?). It fits great and I got it on in all of 10min. You may notice a slight dip on the passenger side. That is not the lips fault. Someone merged into my fender a month ago and it pushed the fender in a little. This caused the bottom of the bumper to sort of bend down on the bottom of the lip. The new lip has actually fixed alot of the issue. I need to pull the fender back out and that will pull the bottom of the bumper back up.

I also got in a Capri VC, but im not going to fit it until I get the COPs on. It has no provisions for the coil pack.

I'll let the pics do the rest of the talking.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

1 more pic of lip

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Omgz it is fast!!! /tease

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Ok, I drove it around for about 15 min today. Just running on 0.9Bar spring in the Tial for now. It is costing me about 300rpm not using the ebc compared to previous logs. This thing hauls *** though. Tons of fun. I get 189kpa (~13PSI) at 3500rpm and it creeps up to 205kpa (15PSI) by redline. Pretty much perfect as far as I'm concerned.

My logs show a little spike in knock around 4800-5300rpm. I'm not sure if its just the NB sensor or if its actual knock. I am going to lower spark adv in those areas by a couple degrees to see if it makes a difference in knock logged.

Otherwise I still need to put on the Flex and I'm going to order a rollbar this week.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

And yes, I realize I need to put a filter on the intake. That's another thing on my list. The stock elbow you see that came with the turbo is right in between the the inserts of the air filter I have, so I can bet the ****** to fit on. I'm plan to go to Lowes to get a rubber hose in the plumbing section to make up the space.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

that is a nice arrangement.

have you verified that you dont have a glowy red downpipe?

for the knock sensor, just try a couple free revs to redline while stopped. see if you get spikes on there. you can increase the knock threshold until they dont register if they're noise.

miatamania

iTrader: (9)

Nice man.

Looks like it is coming along nicely. I really like that color.

TurboRoach

iTrader: (3)

That is where I get a large spike as well ~125-145, with the NB sensor. You should see it on decel as well, like y8s said.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

No more glowing dp at all. Drives very nicely.

As far as the knock goes, it does appear on both sides, accel and decel. I had already copied the knock threshold settings from the zx's thread and they helps some. Another thing I notice in one of my logs though is knock logged on decel that is not on accel. it picks up rapidly right when I lift in this particular instance. My best guess is that its actually my dp rattling against the engine/tranny. It is audible to me when I lift after being under heavy load. I think its likely that the sensor might hear it as well.

Tomorrow I will take your advice Matt. I'll just put all my threshold values at 0 and rev to redline and then let out the throttle while logging sitting still. Then I can put in an accurate threshold map.

Otherwise it is a complete blast to drive!

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I took the car in the same gear I was seeing knock noise, ran it up to red line and let back off, staying out of boost the hole time. That gave me a knock noise reference log to compare with boosted runs when tuning/logging.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

i say neutral cuz you wont get into boost and you wont get into the 100s of miles per hour

but true it may not get all the noise.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

You don't worry about warpwage welding on that v-band? Things are snug in there. Certainly it makes it a big less servicable... Can't argue with the results though. How much was it off ebay?


That's a nice looking set up, btw. Sweet.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Which vband are you talking about? All the large vbands I resurfaced on my benchtop belt sander. The tial ones were beefy and when butted together sealed fine. As far as servicability I have no issues. I've taken off and put it all together several times during the build. I can get the entire thing off the car in 30 min if I attacked it.

I just bought a 87 grand national t3 to swap the compressor onto my turbo. It measures 49.5mm inducer and 71mm exducer. Or roughly the same as the 48trim 2871 wheel. From talking with Tom about his setup I should still hit full boost before 4k rpm. I'm hoping for 250whp-ish with the 13psi spring in my tial.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

yeah - full boost by 4k isn't hard at all. You should have no problems.

I meant warping the turbo or the housing.... Those turbines ride pretty close.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

No, the heat is way too localized to warp the housing. I mean the housings can get over 1400F and be cherry red and still cool down and be fine.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

It's a little more even heating when running.

But I won't argue with what actually works. That's a bit more important than theory. :-)

rrjwilson

Nothing but turbo DIY ****.
May I slightly jack and ask are V-bands only for DP and WG? As I thought bolt problems were from Mani to Tubby so surely that would be the place of choice.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yes that's where we have issues (mani to "tubby") however that's the hardest place to put a v-band setup without making an entirely new manifold. Welding one probably wouldn't be strong enough, and would raise the turbo too much for a top mount, hit the frame for a side mount, and I believe the steering rod for a bottom mount. I've had slight loosening issues at the track, but I've ONLY had turbo-manifold issues, downpipe has always been good.