Oil Feed Adapter Broke Off In Block *NSFW(maybe if your office sucks)*
06-17-2008, 10:16 PM
#1
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Oil Feed Adapter Broke Off In Block *NSFW(maybe if your office sucks)*
So long story short my oil feed adapter broke off in the block when I was removing it. My old adapter consisted of a 2" piece of NPT pipe and a NPT T. This is all from the previous owner and had worked up till now. I do not suggest using NPT fittings to anyone because the thread pitch in the block is BSPT not NPT and there is a difference.
Luckily a friend is sending me the correct adapter so I will have a replacement soon.
I attempted to remove the broken off piece from under the car with the intake brace removed. It was in there very very tight and the last thing I wanted to do was screw it up and end up with tons of brass shavings in the port or a broken off easy out.
So I decided to remove the intake manifold to do this right. The time spent removing the intake to do this right is truthfully time and most likely money saved because I was able to remove the piece without too many issues.
It was a righteous bitch to get out though. I had bought a set of square fluted easyouts just for this job and found that the easyout could not bite enough no matter how hard I hammered it into the existing piece of pipe. Another problem was the easyout most likely swelled the fitting out even more which will in turn make the tapered thread fitting tighter and more difficult to remove.
I luckily had gone to Sears last Sunday to buy a set of 40% Stubby Gearwrenches and in the process of doing so I also grabbed the last $1 mini-chisel off the last minute gift table.
That chisel turned out to be the life saving tool of the day. The Blackhawk wrenches I recently bought also made removing the lower intake nuts much easier then I imagine it would have been without them.
Anyway, most people just like pictures anyway so I took a bunch. I'm also adding some hot women throughout the thread through a random google search just to keep your attention in this thread.
Album can be found here: http://picasaweb.google.com/cjerniga...33299524690178
This is a good picture of the stock NB oil cooler/warmer and knock sensor.
I think I'm going to complete my reroute while I have all this junk off. You can see the rear neck and the hex bolt plug where my coolant sensor will be mounted.
Anyone care about the NB lower intake with VICS, seen here.
Fitting after removal with chisel.
Good chisel on left, crappy easyout on right.
Luckily a friend is sending me the correct adapter so I will have a replacement soon.
I attempted to remove the broken off piece from under the car with the intake brace removed. It was in there very very tight and the last thing I wanted to do was screw it up and end up with tons of brass shavings in the port or a broken off easy out.
So I decided to remove the intake manifold to do this right. The time spent removing the intake to do this right is truthfully time and most likely money saved because I was able to remove the piece without too many issues.
It was a righteous bitch to get out though. I had bought a set of square fluted easyouts just for this job and found that the easyout could not bite enough no matter how hard I hammered it into the existing piece of pipe. Another problem was the easyout most likely swelled the fitting out even more which will in turn make the tapered thread fitting tighter and more difficult to remove.
I luckily had gone to Sears last Sunday to buy a set of 40% Stubby Gearwrenches and in the process of doing so I also grabbed the last $1 mini-chisel off the last minute gift table.
That chisel turned out to be the life saving tool of the day. The Blackhawk wrenches I recently bought also made removing the lower intake nuts much easier then I imagine it would have been without them.
Anyway, most people just like pictures anyway so I took a bunch. I'm also adding some hot women throughout the thread through a random google search just to keep your attention in this thread.
Album can be found here: http://picasaweb.google.com/cjerniga...33299524690178
This is a good picture of the stock NB oil cooler/warmer and knock sensor.
I think I'm going to complete my reroute while I have all this junk off. You can see the rear neck and the hex bolt plug where my coolant sensor will be mounted.
Anyone care about the NB lower intake with VICS, seen here.
Fitting after removal with chisel.
Good chisel on left, crappy easyout on right.
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06-18-2008, 10:19 AM
#6
Nice shot of intake port full of the oily vapor sent back to the "furnace" for burning by the emissions system. And then there's wonderful rough casting and giant ledge under the right valve seat. 
Makes it hard not to go at the cylinder head when it's on the bench... save that photo for when (if) the day comes.
Makes it hard not to go at the cylinder head when it's on the bench... save that photo for when (if) the day comes.
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06-18-2008, 11:13 AM
#7
I've just discovered that I'm a complete idiot when it comes to 1.8's. This oil cooler/warmer thing I've never heard of (I did say idiot). I did know that at some point, Mazda stopped tapping blocks for oil-feed over near the dipstick like it is on my 1.6. I thought the standard means of oil feed on "those" 1.8's was a sandwich plate or "T" off the pressure sender. That is good advice about using the proper fitting.
So, the customary oil-feed for 1.8's is to use a 4ft line around the back of the block tapped off the pressure sender? What's the advantage/disadvantage to that over a sandwich plate? Has anybody ever taken that feed, routed it around the front of the block to a genereic oil cooler and then into the turbo?
As said, I was also unaware of a stock oil cooler/warmer. It appears as though it routes oil through the head for some reason? It looks like it uses a sandwich plate on the filter assembly? What's it for/do? Can/should it be removed? Can you put a sandwich plate for oil feed on the sandwich plate for headwarming?
So, the customary oil-feed for 1.8's is to use a 4ft line around the back of the block tapped off the pressure sender? What's the advantage/disadvantage to that over a sandwich plate? Has anybody ever taken that feed, routed it around the front of the block to a genereic oil cooler and then into the turbo?
As said, I was also unaware of a stock oil cooler/warmer. It appears as though it routes oil through the head for some reason? It looks like it uses a sandwich plate on the filter assembly? What's it for/do? Can/should it be removed? Can you put a sandwich plate for oil feed on the sandwich plate for headwarming?
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06-18-2008, 11:33 AM
#8
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Sam, the 1.8 "oil cooler" routes coolant around the oil as it enters/exits the oil filter. It's moving coolant, not oil, so that's why it has the ability to heat the oil, and why it's routed to the head.
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06-18-2008, 12:45 PM
#11
Is this thing something that is customarily removed? Like I said, I've never heard it talked about (sheltered) and can't imagine there's any benefit once the car is warm. Can those lines be removed/modified and an actual oil-cooler be attached to it instead?
Most oil coolers I've seen use a sandwich plate... why heat up the oil by circulating it through coolant and then cool it down again?
This might sound dumb but I just can't understand this thing. I need enlightenment.
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06-18-2008, 12:52 PM
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Yeah you're not following.
Coolant travels around the passages which carry oil. When you cold start the car, your coolant will heat up more quickly than your oil will. In this case, heat from the coolant is transferred to the oil. This brings your oil temps up to nominal more quickly.
When the car's at full operating temp, your oil will be hotter than coolant. So heat will be transferred from the oil to the coolant to be sloughed by the radiator. This system works just fine for almost everybody, and is an easy retrofit to 1.6 cars.
This is not a replacement for a full-***** oil cooler, which most people absolutely do not need.
Coolant travels around the passages which carry oil. When you cold start the car, your coolant will heat up more quickly than your oil will. In this case, heat from the coolant is transferred to the oil. This brings your oil temps up to nominal more quickly.
When the car's at full operating temp, your oil will be hotter than coolant. So heat will be transferred from the oil to the coolant to be sloughed by the radiator. This system works just fine for almost everybody, and is an easy retrofit to 1.6 cars.
This is not a replacement for a full-***** oil cooler, which most people absolutely do not need.
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06-18-2008, 03:44 PM
#15
uhhh...where are the womans? Unless you consider car **** NSFW...
I am with you Sam, even though I am familiar with the cooler/heater, I wonder if I can just remove it when I get a real (as Ben says) full-***** cooler. I'd like to get rid of it to simplify my cooling system when I do my re-route.
I am with you Sam, even though I am familiar with the cooler/heater, I wonder if I can just remove it when I get a real (as Ben says) full-***** cooler. I'd like to get rid of it to simplify my cooling system when I do my re-route.
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06-18-2008, 03:57 PM
#16
Now I understand and I'm still not buying it.
I know manufacturers need to design cars that work just as well during an Anchorage winter as a Pensacola summer... but what is there to gain for the average guy operating "averagely" between 50*-80* weather. Apparently Mazda thought it necessary at some point to ad this contraption... but with your average BP motor going 200k miles if treated right, I just can't see it.
So, assuming I drive in SoCal and have zero instance of weather extremes... can I add this thing to the list of **** under the hood to remove. I'll run 10w30 year round in Cali. It looks like a piece of cake to hook up a universal oil cooler to that thing if at some point I decide I need it... the hoses are held on by clamps.
I know manufacturers need to design cars that work just as well during an Anchorage winter as a Pensacola summer... but what is there to gain for the average guy operating "averagely" between 50*-80* weather. Apparently Mazda thought it necessary at some point to ad this contraption... but with your average BP motor going 200k miles if treated right, I just can't see it.
So, assuming I drive in SoCal and have zero instance of weather extremes... can I add this thing to the list of **** under the hood to remove. I'll run 10w30 year round in Cali. It looks like a piece of cake to hook up a universal oil cooler to that thing if at some point I decide I need it... the hoses are held on by clamps.
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