ARP Studs/MBSP-2001
#4
Actually, you can grind down the top of the studs. Machinist did it for my car with the MBSP, and even MiataRoadster.com mentions having to do so.
You'll need to have us (or your machine shop) shorten the threads on the ends of your ARP main-cap-to-block studs (available below) so the tops of the studs clear the underside of the MBSP.
#7
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If you use a grinding disc you might get it hot enough to affect the metallurgy, but I really doubt it would be significant.
We're not building 1000hp motors round here.
#8
I don't know how it applies to this case, but the biggest reason to leave a certain length of stud (or bolt) sticking out of the nut is stress distribution in the stud/nut joint. If the thread abruptly ends at the nut, the end of the thread has a higher stess concentration and won't take the same load before rupture.
Like I said, dunno if it matters in this case or not. I'd call ARP.
Like I said, dunno if it matters in this case or not. I'd call ARP.
#10
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I don't know how it applies to this case, but the biggest reason to leave a certain length of stud (or bolt) sticking out of the nut is stress distribution in the stud/nut joint. If the thread abruptly ends at the nut, the end of the thread has a higher stess concentration and won't take the same load before rupture.
Like I said, dunno if it matters in this case or not. I'd call ARP.
Like I said, dunno if it matters in this case or not. I'd call ARP.
There was some talk about this at miata.net as well. Go there and do a search on MBSP and you'll find it. I think a solution was IIRC to drill clearance holes in the MBSP for the ARP studs. I do not have a MBSP myself (I do have ARP), but I remember reading about it when researching MBSPs during my engine build.
#12
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uh huh - a little protrusion isn't bad, but these are too much. Some are slightly worse that others, and some holes tapped further than others. Actually, I'd be more tempted to cut off the backs, and let them since in further.
I'll check out the M.net link you posted... Still, it's odd ARP didn't take care of this. Even so, thinner washers might be needed.
I'll check out the M.net link you posted... Still, it's odd ARP didn't take care of this. Even so, thinner washers might be needed.
#13
uh huh - a little protrusion isn't bad, but these are too much. Some are slightly worse that others, and some holes tapped further than others. Actually, I'd be more tempted to cut off the backs, and let them since in further.
I'll check out the M.net link you posted... Still, it's odd ARP didn't take care of this. Even so, thinner washers might be needed.
I'll check out the M.net link you posted... Still, it's odd ARP didn't take care of this. Even so, thinner washers might be needed.
See if ARP agrees w/ that. It's strange that the holes in the block are tapped to different depths, did you run a cleanup tap through them? Use tapping oil if you do, use a bottoming tap. DON'T BREAK THE TAP.
#14
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I'd place a call to ARP, tell them you want to cut the studs back to 1/2 bolt diameter protrusion (will this clear w/ holes cut in the baffle plate?), cut w/ a hacksaw, not an abrasive wheel and keep the heat down.
See if ARP agrees w/ that. It's strange that the holes in the block are tapped to different depths, did you run a cleanup tap through them? Use tapping oil if you do, use a bottoming tap. DON'T BREAK THE TAP.
See if ARP agrees w/ that. It's strange that the holes in the block are tapped to different depths, did you run a cleanup tap through them? Use tapping oil if you do, use a bottoming tap. DON'T BREAK THE TAP.
#15
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Not breaking the tap is a good suggestion! I did clean them up till I was worried of just that.
I will just have to call arp - tell them it's a common problem, see what they say.
I will just have to call arp - tell them it's a common problem, see what they say.
#17
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https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t39274/ (for anyone following)
The short answer is "no." I've put in probably 6 months of my time on this. More than ready to just put the motor together and weld my wastegate shut.
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