Today I started up my car and let it warm up until the water temp gauge was like 1/3 of the way up. I shut it off and removed all 4 spark plugs. Cylinder number one came out looking like this:
I'm not sure what happened.
Anyway, after all 4 plugs were out I had my wife sit in the car and crank it after I screwed the compression tester in. Results are:
Cyl 1: 175psi
Cyl 2: 110psi
Cyl 3: 150psi
Cyl 4: 175psi
I also noticed that it looked like there was a puddle of oil just laying on top of cylinder 3's piston, and all my plugs were soaked in oil. In fact, they were all F'd up. I've never seen em this bad and needless to say, they're not going back in the car. They are NGK-ZFR6-11 gapped at .030".
Then it was leakdown time. I made my own version of a leakdown tester by welding a pipe nipple to old spark plug threads, and the rest was pretty much copied from this video:
Here is a picture of my homemade leakdown tester:
I turned each cylinder over to TDC and put the car in 2nd with the ebrake pulled before I blew 100psi into any cylinder.
Here are my leak down results, take note I never pulled my IC plumbing at the throttle body, but I did pull my oil cap and dipstick:
Cyl 1: 30% leakage..Blew air out the oil cap and dipstick tube, possibly also intake and exhaust?
Cyl 2: 80% leakage..no air out crankcase, either exhaust or intake.
Cyl 3: 40% leakage..no air out crankcase, either exhaust or intake.
Cyl 4: 10% leakage..no air out crankcase, either exhaust or intake.
So even though cylinder 2 is lowest compression, think it's all in my valves? It did have the least amount of compression, but it also had the highest leak, and with no air going in the crankcase at all. Does this prove my theory of "I need do to a head swap" true? This motor has almost 160,000 miles on it, and it's been boosted for the past 40,000.
Here's the video of "how to do a leakdown test" that goes alone with the "how to build a homemade leakdown tester" video.