The Definitive "VVT swap into 90-97 chassis" Megathread. - Page 13 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-15-2015, 03:04 PM   #241
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You use the 94-97 RB header in an NA with a VVT swap. We are in "The Definitive 'VVT swap into a 90-97 chassis megathread'" after all.
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Old 10-30-2015, 03:09 PM   #242
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Looking for suggestions on how to power the VICS.


I'll be using the fuel injector 12 volts to power the VVT. Is there room on that circuit for the additional load of VVT AND my VICS? Or are you guys using something else?
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Old 10-30-2015, 03:12 PM   #243
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e: don't listen to me, i'm bad and dumb
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Old 10-30-2015, 03:13 PM   #244
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That's where I would grab it from. I can't see that solenoid taking a huge amount of power. In the '99 chassis, it's on the same circuit as the MAF, EGR valve, and cam/crank sensors. You can also grab it from the ECU if your auxiliary output connector (DB37/etc) has a fused +12v available.
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Old 10-30-2015, 03:16 PM   #245
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Injectors should be driven by the same circuit as the fuel pump if I recall correctly. So in any case, the source for that power should be the same. That is where I will be powering mine from anyway (however, will try to run a wire from the F/P fuse to the VVT components).
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:20 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindblad View Post
This is my first reply so bare with me...


My goal is 01 VVT motor swap + EUDM square top manifold + mazdaspeed 6-speed tranny into 95 NA. (Also 94 torsen lsd diff, but am on the fence about the gear ratio)


This was written at the beginning of the thread and I have been trying to prove it right.


"Fuel system:
Use a 1999-2000 fuel rail and a 1990-1993 fuel pressure regulator. No other combination of OEM parts will work. The 90-93 fuel rails are too short, the 94-97 rails have incorrect mounting tabs, and the 01-05 rail places the fuel pressure regulator in a spot which interferes with the cylinder head. The 94-97 FPR places the pressure reference in a spot which interferes with the cylinder head and the 99-05 regulators do not have a return line."


Is this only true when retaining the VTCS manifold? I will be using a 99 fuel rail and EUDM square top, and was told from an outside source the 94 FPR should work, so I gave it a try...


Attachment 149173

Attachment 149174


It looks like the clearance won't be an issue.. Is there something I am missing or will I have issues with clearance later in the process? The only thing I can think of is I used the 01 injector harness for a fitment test. Am I going to use the 95 injector harness and is this going to cause a clearance issue??


Thanks!

So I picked up a 90-93 fuel pressure regulator to see if it would be a better fit than the 94 one I was using. I had clearance issues no matter if the 90-93 regulator was right side up or up side down... Pictures are not great as I had my hands full...


*Correction* just dawned on me I had read others have had to bend the fitting for clearance... I guess some things are never a bolt on
Attached Thumbnails
The Definitive "VVT swap into 90-97 chassis" Megathread.-img_4980.jpg   The Definitive "VVT swap into 90-97 chassis" Megathread.-img_4981.jpg   The Definitive "VVT swap into 90-97 chassis" Megathread.-img_4982.jpg  

Last edited by Lindblad; 11-09-2015 at 09:24 PM. Reason: brain fart
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:24 PM   #247
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I believe you do have to bend that pipe slightly.

Although you could probably get away with just a '99 EUDM fuel rail and FPR. And bend the pipes too.
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:31 PM   #248
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If bending the fuel nipple/fitting on the 90-93 regulator is the solution, what methods are you all using to not damage it while bending it? cheers.
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:39 PM   #249
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I just used my hands. It doesn't take much strength and you don't need to bend it THAT much...

I was just replacing the fuel lines in my car last weekend again, and you can see the clearance is minimal:



99 EUDM FPR points straight down and requires no modification. The inlet pipe needs some bending outwards, just enough that the pipe does not foul on the front of the head and timing covers.

This is using a squaretop manifold, unsure if this setup will fit the VICS and VTCS manifolds...
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:01 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderFox View Post
I just used my hands. It doesn't take much strength and you don't need to bend it THAT much...

I was just replacing the fuel lines in my car last weekend again, and you can see the clearance is minimal:



99 EUDM FPR points straight down and requires no modification. The inlet pipe needs some bending outwards, just enough that the pipe does not foul on the front of the head and timing covers.

This is using a squaretop manifold, unsure if this setup will fit the VICS and VTCS manifolds...

Thanks. I am using the EUDM squaretop manifold so it should work out the same. Did you happen to use a dorman 800-081.5 quick disconnect for the fuel rail?
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:25 AM   #251
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Alrighty, so...finally finished the thread. Got a question that was tapped on back on the very bottom of page 4 but didn't seem to go anywhere. So here's what I'm working with. I have the entire 2001 car, running and sorta driving. Got t-boned but didn't mess with the drivetrain at all other than a fucked up rear left hub.
So the question, IF I were to take literally everything out, I'm talking dash, wiring harness, trans, rearend...I mean a complete transplant and try to put it in my 91 (after removing all of the same stuff), would it work?
My husband and I have done engine swaps before but never a Miata VVT swap. Help would be appreciated guys.
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:18 AM   #252
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No Lindblad, I just used regular fuel hose clamps (ABE I think).

JRWeeks, it would definitely work, but you would always have to go the custom way about some details... The wiring loom for the lights on the NBFL is shared with part of the accessory loom so that would have to be modified. Also the NBFL is returnless fuel system, so you would have to adapt one of your existing fuel pipes and plug the other, that is assuming you would not be swapping those and the fuel tank as well.

A lot of work for no gains compared to just dropping the engine in and get it some proper management, IMHO.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:25 AM   #253
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JRWeeks: you can do that, and it's your time if you really want to; however, you can spend literally weeks removing the wiring harness and installing the NB2 one... or you can splice half a dozen wires. The 1.6 to VVT swap is well documented and deviating from "the formula" will put you in a spot where the amount of help you can receive is dramatically reduced.
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:41 AM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWeeks View Post
So the question, IF I were to take literally everything out, I'm talking dash, wiring harness, trans, rearend...I mean a complete transplant and try to put it in my 91 (after removing all of the same stuff), would it work?
My husband and I have done engine swaps before but never a Miata VVT swap. Help would be appreciated guys.
It would work, but it's 10x the work for no benefit. If you want to go that route, please start a new thread - this thread is for discussion about swapping the motor without having to swap the entire harness.
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:51 AM   #255
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Alright, thanks guys. I figured I would start here as this is the "definitive VVT swap megathread" and there was already a dedicated electrical thread for the harness issue.
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:44 PM   #256
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Ok just so the next guy with 90-93 diypnp doesn't have to figure it out them selves.
When switching to 01-04 coils take tach out to 4I inside of the diypnp. Then go to Tach out in TS and turn on.
Then as previously documented connect black/white to yellow/blue(the 2 in the middle 4 and 5) at igniter plug
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:35 PM   #257
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For those of you who have wired the 01+ coils into the NA coil system:



What order do you have your pins at the 3 prong connector going into the coils?

From looking at the mazda diagram, Power, then ground, then signal, is the pin order for the 01+ connectors, descending from the top.



Just trying to check that my wiring is correct before I dig deeper.


EDIT: A = 12V, B = ground, C = trigger.

Last edited by 2ndGearRubber; 11-30-2015 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:14 PM   #258
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So what is everyone doing with vacuum lines? Deleting everything possible, including charcoal canister, other than essentials - brake booster, MAP line, and FPR? Keep charcoal canister and route it to play nice with NB manifold? Also, what is the function of the the two short lines each running between two spots on the VTCS manifold? I assume they can be kept.

Also, for the fuel lines, is everyone just removing the quick disconnect fitting from the 99 rail and putting the plain NA style fuel hose over the tube with a clamp? I haven't had a chance to look at the tube under the quick disconnect.
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:48 PM   #259
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2 short lines are probably for vtcs.

Fuel line needs a quick disconnect to 5/16 hose Barb, and then fuel line slipped over it.
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:41 PM   #260
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Great, thanks. That would be the Dorman 800-081 referenced elsewhere in the thread.
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