The Definitive "VVT swap into 90-97 chassis" Megathread. - Page 7 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions. KMiata

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-06-2015, 08:28 PM   #121
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 159
Total Cats: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midtenn View Post
I used the wiring from the pressure up solenoid in for my VVT solenoid (see earlier responses). I did it because the pressure up solenoid (a switched 12v+ and trigger) was already a part of the injector wiring harness. I just added the VVT pigtail to the existing wiring and moved the trigger wire on the ECU side (AEM EMS). It was a lot easier than having to patch into the 12v+ from the injectors and run a new trigger.
Glad you were able to do this. I was hoping that I could reprogram the megasquirt to send the VVT signal over that wire, but if not then I can always just hack and splice on the ecu side as well. Still easier than running a new wire, and looks cleaner.

Is there anything similar I can use for the knock sensor? Maybe the unused factory O2 plug? Or one of the EGR plugs? Will investigate...
Uncle Humjaba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2015, 01:36 PM   #122
Senior Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Murfreesboro,TN
Posts: 1,151
Total Cats: 28
Default

With the AEM I just moved the pin from one spot in the ECU plug to another (I think they are in the same plug). Just buy a tool to remove the pins and its makes life much easier.
Midtenn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2015, 10:29 PM   #123
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Melissa, TX
Posts: 172
Total Cats: 20
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracr View Post
This is exactly how I did mine. 1.6 long nose crank pulley works perfectly.
Err... I was working the front end of the motor today, the 1.6L crank pully does not have the timing tabs for the crank angle sensor, so I am back to using the pully it came with and will need to source an alternator.

How exactly did you get this to work?

I ripped apart the Fuel rail harness the motor came with since it came with both sides of the 8 pin connector. Patched in my two coolant temperature sensors into this connector (1 2 pin sensor and 1 1 pin sensor in place of the 2004 3 pin sensor) with the intention of redoing the mating side. I figured I might as well leave the other 5 pins alone so that I can do sequential fuel injection and have a handy disconnect for removing the motor. However
I forgot to request that my MSLabs MS3 basic to have sequential fueling outputs. DOH. I guess I will just patch the chassis side of the cable to split out the 1/4 and the 2/3 signals to each individual injector, and run the extra wires in the bundle so that if I ever decide that I need it, I will just need to remove the jumper in the harness and do a bit of work on the ECU.

Also after seeing how the spark plug condensor and ground were run, I disliked it immensely. The condenser and ground are hooked up by running out the spark plug harness connector, back into a 4 pin connector at the front of the motor that is bundled with the FI harness and mounted at the rear of the motor. The condensor is supposed to help with voltage drop, why would you hang it off an unnecessarily long length of cable?!? Tore this apart and patched the condensor connector and the grounds directly into the injector harness, eliminating the 4 pin connector at the front of the motor, so now all that is up there is the 8 pin Fuel injector connector and the 2 pin knock sensor connector on the left and the Crank angle sensor connector on the right.
Ziggo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2015, 11:49 PM   #124
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (24)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 11,632
Total Cats: 463
Default

The timing wheel is just a disc, it can be removed and bolted in behind the 1.6 wheel, I'm assuming. It comes off after the 4 m6 bolts are removed.

All MS3s have sequential injection as far as I know, but if you order it in batch, Rev will jumper them together and send a batched base map. A few jumper changes and wiring changes, and you'll be set for sequential.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2015, 02:40 AM   #125
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Melissa, TX
Posts: 172
Total Cats: 20
Default

Sweet, I feel like a dumbass now, but at least I am not a dumbass who has to buy an alternator.
Ziggo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2015, 09:32 PM   #126
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Melissa, TX
Posts: 172
Total Cats: 20
Default

Well. I discovered something else. 1.6 alternator, or 1.8, you will need the alternator bracket from a 1994 or later. The 1.6L bracket wont fit, interferes with the mount point for the 1994+ bracket on the water pump...
Ziggo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2015, 10:19 PM   #127
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (24)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 11,632
Total Cats: 463
Default

Angle grinder bro. Or use a 90-93 water pump.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2015, 11:17 PM   #128
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 159
Total Cats: 10
Default

Knock sensor question. One wire into the appropriate ECU pigtail, where's the other go? Analog sensor ground? Does polarity matter?
Uncle Humjaba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2015, 02:27 AM   #129
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Melissa, TX
Posts: 172
Total Cats: 20
Default

The white wire is signal for the knock sensor. The other is just a shield, connect it to a chassis ground.
Ziggo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2015, 03:36 PM   #130
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 159
Total Cats: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
The white wire is signal for the knock sensor. The other is just a shield, connect it to a chassis ground.
Will any old chassis ground work (the one at the front of the engine perhaps) or should I wire it back to the "analog sensor ground" on the megasquirt?
Uncle Humjaba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2015, 04:27 PM   #131
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Melissa, TX
Posts: 172
Total Cats: 20
Default

As its a shield and not a ground reference, any chassis ground will work.
Ziggo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2015, 05:00 PM   #132
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Melissa, TX
Posts: 172
Total Cats: 20
Default

Moving along. For the purpose of documentation, the Reverent MSLabs MS3 basic does support sequential injectors out of the box, however it will not be wired to the DB-37 unless requested, which I neglected to do. If one were to desire to hook them up the following changes would need to be made:

Quote:
Otherwise (if not requested), they can be brought out of the main connector (but you first need to place a jumper on header JP11, and move the jumper on header JP10 from 1-2 to 2-3

Injector 1 goes to pin 2U
Injector 2 goes to pin 2V
Injector 3 goes to pin 2Y
Injector 4 goes to pin 2Z
I am already buying pins and tools to service the ECU connector because one of the wires was messed up when I removed the ECU (details here: Ziggo's 1993 Miata (its a rescue)) so I will probably be hooking this up.

Next up:

Quote:
TPS:
The 90-93 manual chassis did not originally come with a 0-5v variable TPS. To use a 94-05 0-5v throttle position sensor in a 90-93 chassis, consult with your ECU supplier to confirm the wiring changes that are necessary.
Looking for an answer on this from Reverant for using one of his MS3 Basic PNPs for a 90-93. I suspect that I would have to purchase a middle connector for the ECU and add wires to it as if it was for a 1994-1997. On the middle connector pin "I" would be the 5V reference, On "F" would be the signal, and pin "O" would serve as ground.
Ziggo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2015, 06:44 PM   #133
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Melissa, TX
Posts: 172
Total Cats: 20
Default

Nope. Much easier Than that per the man himself. For MS labs MS3 Basic 90-93 PNP:

Quote:
No, you'll be using the stock TPS wiring instead:

- Red: 5V
- Black/Light Green: Ground
- Green/White: Signal.
Make sure the pull the fuse as specified in the directions.

Last edited by Ziggo; 04-21-2015 at 12:11 AM.
Ziggo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 11:50 AM   #134
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portugal
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
Default

I ordered the 99-00 fuel rail from a scrappy expecting it to only have a fuel damper on the return end. But it came with a fuel pressure valve and return, and doesn't use fittings for the fuel pipes (it's clamp and hose). Otherwise it looks exactly like the 99-00.

It mated to the VVT engine, only needed to slightly bend the inlet pipe for it to clear the timing belt cover. I'm guessing it will work but I'm curious... If this is not an 99-00 rail, which one is it?

So... What have I been sent, do you guys have an idea?

Getting pics as soon as I get out from work.
ThunderFox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 02:47 PM   #135
Destroyer of Inconel
iTrader: (37)
 
EO2K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: In ur driveway, abusin' ur WPA
Posts: 8,732
Total Cats: 746
Default

Sounds like an 94-97, but pics will confirm.
EO2K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 02:51 PM   #136
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portugal
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
Default

Don't really know, but it mounts perfectly to the engine and the FPR return line does not interfere with the head. It's the pipe on the rail itself that does, which doesn't really match what's in the first post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
the 94-97 rails have incorrect mounting tabs (...). The 94-97 FPR places the pressure reference in a spot which interferes with the cylinder head

I'll get pics in a couple hours.
ThunderFox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 05:14 PM   #137
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portugal
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
Default

Okay, here are the photos of that rail I got. I took a (bad) picture of it in place without the top part of the manifold, and another one on my desk:





You can see the pipe that goes around the rail is slightly bent to clear the head. Otherwise the rail is as it was, still with the fuel pipes on and all...
ThunderFox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 06:21 PM   #138
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Woodbine, MD
Posts: 112
Total Cats: 5
Default

This is a picture of how it looked on my install. Looks like you may not have the proper rail.



gjsmith66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 06:34 PM   #139
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (24)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 11,632
Total Cats: 463
Default

Nope that's right. You usually have to trim the top of the manifold to stop from squishing that fuel line
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 06:37 PM   #140
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Portugal
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
Default

Apart from the pipe that I had to slightly bend, the manifold clears the fuel rail just fine. Both pipes come out on below the throttle body. This is using the flat top manifold of course, I'm unsure about the VICS or VTCS ones...

Now, the rail looks just like gjsmith66's, except for the connector on the inlet pipe and the fact that it came with an FPR. Does it belong to a 94-97 then?
ThunderFox is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
WTB MP62 (Hotside) (NB2) Rick02R WTB 3 01-03-2016 08:18 PM
Noob to Miataturbo from MA JxPhan Meet and Greet 3 10-02-2015 03:17 AM
Low oil pressure after 1.8 swap and new turbo setup JesseTheNoob DIY Turbo Discussion 15 09-30-2015 03:44 PM
VR6 to Miata Swap ScrapinMX5 Meet and Greet 8 09-28-2015 02:04 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:12 AM.