Engine build
#1
Engine build
So I had a chat with a local race engine build shop and this is all the **** he reccomended we do to my shortblock.
Clean block $40
Bore/hone $132
Service deck $120
Crank balance $100
Check line bore $65 -> $315 if a line bore is needed
Boil/polish crank $75
Check rod size (assemble/measure) $25
Assemble rods to pistons $40
Fitting rings $60
Assemble bottom end $225
The prices may seem a bit higher but this is because this place is the go-to shop in Van, and you can be %100 sure you're getting the right thing the first time. All they do is high performance builds.
Anything on that list that is missed? I was thinking of having the engine torque plated for honing but I guess that's not totally nessicary.
I have Supertech pistons + secret rods and it's going to be built with ACL race bearings.
Clean block $40
Bore/hone $132
Service deck $120
Crank balance $100
Check line bore $65 -> $315 if a line bore is needed
Boil/polish crank $75
Check rod size (assemble/measure) $25
Assemble rods to pistons $40
Fitting rings $60
Assemble bottom end $225
The prices may seem a bit higher but this is because this place is the go-to shop in Van, and you can be %100 sure you're getting the right thing the first time. All they do is high performance builds.
Anything on that list that is missed? I was thinking of having the engine torque plated for honing but I guess that's not totally nessicary.
I have Supertech pistons + secret rods and it's going to be built with ACL race bearings.
#8
That is from high performance engines in Burnaby.
http://www.highperformanceengines.net/
In reality, the prices aren't that much more than other local shops. I got quotes from 4 places and they are all within about $100 of each other.
Some of the other places..
http://www.richmondengines.com/
http://bjparts.com/machine_shop.php <- this is the only place local that has a torque plate
http://www.highperformanceengines.net/
In reality, the prices aren't that much more than other local shops. I got quotes from 4 places and they are all within about $100 of each other.
Some of the other places..
http://www.richmondengines.com/
http://bjparts.com/machine_shop.php <- this is the only place local that has a torque plate
#9
Bearings will be bought by myself. Ballpark $100 or so.
I am contemplating having the machine work done there and doing the assembly myself. But I don't know if I trust myself to do it just yet. Especially when it's only an extra $225 for them to do it.
The main reason I want to do it is I don't trust ANYONE and want to check their bore work and make sure all the bearings are spec'd correctly. I have trust issues.
#14
Kershaw Performance... hmm... I'll give them a call. Did they do assembly as well? I'm a paranoid dude... and have trust issues why I haven't had the build done yet. I just haven't found a shop that I feel totally comfortable dropping my **** off, and picking it up KNOWING it will be built properly and last at that track with big power.
#16
I did this with my last engine. Spent 1400 bucks total rebuilding it and getting all the baller machine work done to it and paid them to assemble the short block as well. Lasted 2 years with track days, autox and rough daily driving. Then I had a freak megasquirt issue that killed it. I built my current engine for ~200 bucks total and it runs as good or better than the expensive one. I trust it just as much, actually I trust it more since its got better rods.
Moral of the story? 1.6s are cheap and plentiful. You're eventually going to blow your engine eventually anyway and you'll feel a lot better about blowing a 200 dollar engine than a 1500 dollar engine.
Also, I feel like a sucker paying them to assemble my short block way back then. After doing it a few times since then I realize its just as easy as doing anything else when working on a car. This is not rocket science or engineering, its just following instructions and being detail oriented while you assemble something.
Edit: I dont see anything in there about balancing the reciprocating assembly. If you're balancing the crank you need to balance the rest of the moving parts as well.
Moral of the story? 1.6s are cheap and plentiful. You're eventually going to blow your engine eventually anyway and you'll feel a lot better about blowing a 200 dollar engine than a 1500 dollar engine.
Also, I feel like a sucker paying them to assemble my short block way back then. After doing it a few times since then I realize its just as easy as doing anything else when working on a car. This is not rocket science or engineering, its just following instructions and being detail oriented while you assemble something.
Edit: I dont see anything in there about balancing the reciprocating assembly. If you're balancing the crank you need to balance the rest of the moving parts as well.
#17
Yes... that's all included in the cost for "balancing"
The thing is I'm going to have most of the machine work done either way. For an extra $200-$250 having them to the assembly just takes a load off my shoulders and I can worry about installing it and making the engine run. Since I'm spending money on new pistons, rods, have a $2000 head on the car I would rather make sure everything is done to perfection.
The thing is I'm going to have most of the machine work done either way. For an extra $200-$250 having them to the assembly just takes a load off my shoulders and I can worry about installing it and making the engine run. Since I'm spending money on new pistons, rods, have a $2000 head on the car I would rather make sure everything is done to perfection.