TURNS101

iTrader: (10)

This is a full track car.

My runs are not that long. I do run in super hot weather i.e. vegas in August.

My coolant system will run from the rad to the waterpump out the back of the head to a Tstat/ temp gauge housing to the top of the rad. Short and simple.

What Tstat do you folks run? What do you think I should run?

stock, 160* or nothing??


Thanks
Jeff

hustler

iTrader: (6)

180*f. Why run it any lower?

TURNS101

iTrader: (10)

Thats what I thought.

What is the deal with so many people running no tstat or just a 160 then??



Hopefully with the system set up and just water and water wetter I will stay around 180.

Jeff_Ciesielski

iTrader: (10)

The 160, I'm not sure. Some sort of perceived gain I guess.

As for no tstat, I ran my car like that for a while because I had 2 of them fail on me and seal shut. Not fun when you think its OK and you get stuck in traffic with your car overheating like hell. Took forever to warm up, but after that everything was alright.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I have no problem staying at 180* without fans due to my ducting and home-grown belly pan in 100* heat on the track. using a 160* t-stat is only going to make the car run too cold and run warm-up enrichment.

TURNS101

iTrader: (10)

Big hustler,
Thats a huge problem I have, I am sideways. I don get that air flow you do through the rad. So tempts can become a problem quickly, say at Irwindale. Full throttle 4th gear all the way around the bank sideways. It can get hot quick.

stranges12712

iTrader: (1)

Dont run a tstat then.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Show us pics of your chambered, ducted heat exchangers and vented hood.

I guess starting at 120* water temps may work for your run...but what about longer tracks?

I ***** this everywhere but see the metal divider 1" from the top of the bumper mouth?

That's the only air the radiator sees, and the car makes tons and tons of power, and can spend the day behind traffic and not overheat. Chamber, duct, belly pan, vented hood...win. Most of that you can do with $60 in plastic, a box cutter, straight edge, zip ties, and a drill.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

i agree with what hustler said.... even running the factory bellypan my car came down 1-20 degrees over not having it.

but that being said, since you are full standalone, you shoul dbe able to change what temp your car is defined as being warm-up enrichment so you can run a 160 if you are still overheating.

TURNS101

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the pic Hustler. I think a hood would also help me s **** ton.



Seriously though, that doesnt look like much air. Dammm

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Are you running with a coolant reroute?

If so, try it without the t-stat. I've been running my car without one for more than 6 months without issues (if I don't use the a/c lol). I think you need to read these 2 threads: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/c-condenser-questions-47053/ and https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ight=extractor

If I were you I'd do the Mini Cooper hood scoop and run without a t-stat. A local drifter (he has a Sylvia) runs that way and never overheats.

BTW, we have 90 degree weather all year round.

TURNS101

iTrader: (10)

Well, its easy enough to try both ways .. Thanks everyone..