Going f!ix my turbo to manifold joint for good!
#1
Going f!ix my turbo to manifold joint for good!
I have had it all, copper coated, hardened, and now this **** is loose again with yet another stud broken and others backed off. It is time to put the idea below into practice.
Non-OEM turbo under race conditions: welding or die!
Hi,
yes it was the only thing that lasted under race conditions...
all the types of fasteners I tried eventually failed..
I will probably remove the entire intake plumming and disconnect the downpipe and try to remove the manifold and turbo myself and bring them to my shop to have them resurface the flanges and replace the four studs, tighten it all up, heatcycle and then weld it all together.
Non-OEM turbo under race conditions: welding or die!
Originally Posted by E-mail reply from the guy from the pictures below
Hi,
yes it was the only thing that lasted under race conditions...
all the types of fasteners I tried eventually failed..
I will probably remove the entire intake plumming and disconnect the downpipe and try to remove the manifold and turbo myself and bring them to my shop to have them resurface the flanges and replace the four studs, tighten it all up, heatcycle and then weld it all together.
#3
How about just a few spot welds instead of all around like that?
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#7
Cpt. Slow
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Nord washers. And they suck on track cars. Mine bit the dust long ago. They're still there, but they can't **** from back out. And once you do secure the studs/nuts so they won't budge, your studs will back out or the threads will strip. I already have a heli-coil in one of the holes in the manifold and I'm just waiting for it to die, at which point I'll probably weld mine too.
#8
If it were me, I'd never weld a turbo to a manifold, instead, I'd get extra long studs and fab a square piece of steel that was big enough to sit over top all 4 studs on the backside (threaded side). It may end up looking like a horseshoe to get around the exhaust and still cover all 4 studs. I'd then tack weld that plate to the end of those studs. They won't back out, and if you ever need to remove the turbo, you just cut off the tips of the studs and unthread the bolts as normal.
What's so hard about that? I thought that up just now in 5 seconds while reading the OP.
What's so hard about that? I thought that up just now in 5 seconds while reading the OP.
#14
V-band is nice, but I don't see how that is going to fit with this manifold and this turbo. So that is another very expensive route...
V-Band Adapter - GT25/GT28/GT307X-WG Series: atpturbo.com
These aint for the turbo to mf connection...
V-Band Adapter - GT25/GT28/GT307X-WG Series: atpturbo.com
These aint for the turbo to mf connection...
#16
V-band is nice, but I don't see how that is going to fit with this manifold and this turbo. So that is another very expensive route...
V-Band Adapter - GT25/GT28/GT307X-WG Series: atpturbo.com
These aint for the turbo to mf connection...
V-Band Adapter - GT25/GT28/GT307X-WG Series: atpturbo.com
These aint for the turbo to mf connection...
Tial Turbine Housings: atpturbo.com
#17
PROGRESS UPDATE:
Started to disassemble everything. Work for 2 hours this afternoon with icecream and beer breaks because the weather is lovely. The intake plumming is gone and all nuts are loose. Wasn't actually hard, just took it slow and easy.
I am now in the process of removing the manifold and turbo as one unit. This is currently not possible because of stud length in the block and turbo which I am going to shorten all. Dremel works I found.
After it is all out, i will also make a bit more room in the firewall/suspension top mount reinforcement area - the horizontal sheetmetal below the brake booster. Not alot, just a little more. The turbo+mf should then easily slide on the engine and downpipe.
Pics monday probably...
Started to disassemble everything. Work for 2 hours this afternoon with icecream and beer breaks because the weather is lovely. The intake plumming is gone and all nuts are loose. Wasn't actually hard, just took it slow and easy.
I am now in the process of removing the manifold and turbo as one unit. This is currently not possible because of stud length in the block and turbo which I am going to shorten all. Dremel works I found.
After it is all out, i will also make a bit more room in the firewall/suspension top mount reinforcement area - the horizontal sheetmetal below the brake booster. Not alot, just a little more. The turbo+mf should then easily slide on the engine and downpipe.
Pics monday probably...
#19
I was thinking some type of heat sink like copper tubing that you could flatten on one end and drill a hole through it and run a stud down on it w/ a lock washer of course. (this would go between your fastener and the manifold)
Totally just guessing whether or not it would work (or allow for you to adequately tighten your bolts) but it would suck a lot of heat of your fasteners (while looking ridiculously lame).
Sorry... nix that idea, it blows.
Oh, by the way, is your manifold flange cast? You're going to have a hard time wedling to it if so.
#20
Back on topic: I thought you were looking for solutions for the MF to turbo connection not the turbo to dp?
Last edited by greenday3437; 05-30-2009 at 07:43 PM.