N0oB repairing/Building a 1.6
06-05-2012, 10:23 AM
#83
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Well i have it running but its only running on two cylinders (1 and 3 work). Engine oil pressure under 30psi. Got a code and its #14 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor aka barometric pressure sensors but that should not be the reason why its running on 2 cylinders. I still have spark on all wires. Maybe its the ECU on the fritz.
Last edited by ReaperofMiatas; 06-05-2012 at 10:26 AM. Reason: Wires have spark.
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06-05-2012, 12:38 PM
#84
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Please do a compression and leak down test. Post your findings.
I wouldnt be suprised if you have somthing fubaring your injectors. I mean how many times have you pulled it apart now? If your pullin the fuel rail, injectors, lines off everytime its bound to happen. Take a long screw driver and place it on the top of the injector, put the handle to your ear. BE VERY CAREFULL OF THE SPINNING BELTS AND FANS. Listen for a smooth tick tick tick from each one. I would also check over your new harness. Do you know why the first one was hacked up? Maybe the problem is still there...
Dont worry about buying a new fuel rail as they dont go bad unless you jack up the threads or cut them in half. Also put a vaccum gauge on it by the TB and see what you get at idle if it runs again.
I wouldnt be suprised if you have somthing fubaring your injectors. I mean how many times have you pulled it apart now? If your pullin the fuel rail, injectors, lines off everytime its bound to happen. Take a long screw driver and place it on the top of the injector, put the handle to your ear. BE VERY CAREFULL OF THE SPINNING BELTS AND FANS. Listen for a smooth tick tick tick from each one. I would also check over your new harness. Do you know why the first one was hacked up? Maybe the problem is still there...
Dont worry about buying a new fuel rail as they dont go bad unless you jack up the threads or cut them in half. Also put a vaccum gauge on it by the TB and see what you get at idle if it runs again.
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06-08-2012, 12:28 PM
#86
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You can buy or rent a compression tester from autozone or buy one from Harbor Freight. The cost is worth it for a tool your gonna use more than once.
Compression and leak down tests are the best way to look into your motor without taking anything apart.
Compression and leak down tests are the best way to look into your motor without taking anything apart.
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06-08-2012, 07:16 PM
#87
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Installed the Reman Injectors... No change on how the car is acting. Still im glad i changed the injectors the gaskets and old injectors were all kinds of ------ up. Stll has very low oil pressure, im guessing under 20psi yet im not losing oil. Pistons 2 and 4 still not working yet i still have spark on all plugs. Going to rent the leak down tester and post up the compression results asap.
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06-16-2012, 10:20 AM
#88
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Hi guys im back with an updated on the "Murphy's Law" build. Well i did the compression check on it and it looked ok to me Cylinder (1)191 (2)191 (3)194 (4)190. I did not do a leak test on it since renting one of those tool from A.Zone would be about the amount of of taking it to the pro's, so what i did was take it to Treasure Coast Miata they specialize on only miatas so i thought it was the best move.
Well they got it running on all four cylinders it turned out it needed a ECU. I ONLY paid for the time it took for them to find that out what it was and install the ECU, total cost of $180 $50 hr and $80 ECU sounds fair to me. They told me tho that i only paid them for getting the car to run on all four cylinders and there is an issue with the cars @ 60mph.
This is why im calling it the Murphy's Law Build, if it can go wrong it will... Well im driving it down the road back from the shop going through all the gears no problem im doing 55. Then when i hit 60 all of the sudden it ACTS like i just blow the motor i mean unbelievable amounts of smoke quantity's ive never seen. Then i go under 60 mph and its all good it stops smoking its driving normally, no smoke at all. I mean you would think it was another car.
Im sure its oil going out the muffler cuz after that happen i lost about 2qts of oil and my rear bumper looks like the BP accident. Then i thought maybe it was the RPMS so i drove the car running every gear to 6k rpm and it didnt happen but when i hit the 60mph point its a smoke machine and its driving me nuts. On top of all that i get it home park it reverse leave it in neutral and when i wanna show a friend what the car is doing it wont get out of reverse. I can put it in 1st 2nd but 3rd 4th 5th R is all blocked off WTF.when i say i can put it on 1st and 2nd is cuz i can but the car wont go anywhere its on both 1st and reverse at the same time. I think it could be the Throw, but why the car smokes at 60mph is a complete mystery.
Well they got it running on all four cylinders it turned out it needed a ECU. I ONLY paid for the time it took for them to find that out what it was and install the ECU, total cost of $180 $50 hr and $80 ECU sounds fair to me. They told me tho that i only paid them for getting the car to run on all four cylinders and there is an issue with the cars @ 60mph.
This is why im calling it the Murphy's Law Build, if it can go wrong it will... Well im driving it down the road back from the shop going through all the gears no problem im doing 55. Then when i hit 60 all of the sudden it ACTS like i just blow the motor i mean unbelievable amounts of smoke quantity's ive never seen. Then i go under 60 mph and its all good it stops smoking its driving normally, no smoke at all. I mean you would think it was another car.
Im sure its oil going out the muffler cuz after that happen i lost about 2qts of oil and my rear bumper looks like the BP accident. Then i thought maybe it was the RPMS so i drove the car running every gear to 6k rpm and it didnt happen but when i hit the 60mph point its a smoke machine and its driving me nuts. On top of all that i get it home park it reverse leave it in neutral and when i wanna show a friend what the car is doing it wont get out of reverse. I can put it in 1st 2nd but 3rd 4th 5th R is all blocked off WTF.when i say i can put it on 1st and 2nd is cuz i can but the car wont go anywhere its on both 1st and reverse at the same time. I think it could be the Throw, but why the car smokes at 60mph is a complete mystery.
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06-16-2012, 10:31 AM
#89
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These cars have what is called a 60mph shimmy. Ive never heard of a 60mph oil dump. How did the shop find this out? Test drive..? Does it continue with the same outcome past 60?
The stuck in reverse situation is a pretty common one. Its also an easy fix and somtimes a great way to buy a miata for cheep, from folks who dont know any better. Do a quick search for stuck in reverse, and Im sure you have it popped back in whithin a few mins.
The stuck in reverse situation is a pretty common one. Its also an easy fix and somtimes a great way to buy a miata for cheep, from folks who dont know any better. Do a quick search for stuck in reverse, and Im sure you have it popped back in whithin a few mins.
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06-16-2012, 10:44 AM
#90
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I asked that same question and they told me it on a test drive.
Yes it does continue past 60 the first time it happend on the drive home i was a bit angry at the car and pushed it to 80mph before thinking oh ---- hope a cop dont see this. Also there is a lost of power and shuffle seconds before or during the smoke thing.
Yes it does continue past 60 the first time it happend on the drive home i was a bit angry at the car and pushed it to 80mph before thinking oh ---- hope a cop dont see this. Also there is a lost of power and shuffle seconds before or during the smoke thing.
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06-17-2012, 02:09 PM
#94
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I understand if it does not make sense, but it does not mean its not true. i PROMISE you that at 60mph is when it does... lets call it an "oil dump". I thought it was an RPM trigger as well so i tested it that same day. 1st gear all the way to 6k rpm 2nd same 3rd same on 4th gear i hit 60mph at around 4k rpm and boom oil dump. No problems till 60mph no smoke no shuffle no shimmy nothing till 60mph.
BTW i fixed the stuck gear issue thank you search bar.
BTW i fixed the stuck gear issue thank you search bar.
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06-19-2012, 12:53 PM
#96
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UPDATE: Ok for whatever reason it stopped the "Oil Dump" past 60mph. Long story short... Since i can drive it under 60 with out an issue i decided to get some use out of it. Well driving down us1 i was going the speed limit of 55 and i didnt notice that i was actually going 63 and there was not an issue. So that same drive i took it on the expressway and there was not an issue i was going 90 and there was not a problem. Next day took it out again and not an issue, maybe it just went away, maybe its just waiting for me to let my guard down then strike.
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06-21-2012, 09:47 AM
#98
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When the engine is cold i think the oil pressure is a bit high idle 30psi driving 40psi, but it does fall to 25psi idle 30psi driving after it reaches normal running temp. At least the oil psi does not drop more and more and more as i drive like it used to. So far so good its at 200miles after rebuilt so its time for the oil change. I have been running it with out the temp gauge for about 80miles got that fixed up and im happy to report it has not been running hot at all. Usually i would baby a new toy but this one has is way past the baby part. Its do or die for murphy and thus far its been doing well.
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06-23-2012, 03:32 PM
#99
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I had a bit of free time today so i decided to actually find out how much it cost me to do this little project. I counted it out with all my receipts, yes i counted the 3 headgaskets as well and the shop costs for the cylinder head and block. Here is the bottom line dallar amount.
$1186.84
$1186.84
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