Rough idle and engine noise after turbo install
08-17-2012, 06:13 PM
#22
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Nope
After installing the new parts i turned it on and it was acting like this before installig the parts it was working fine just needed a new turbo because it had shaft play thats y i dont understand how i could have nuked it
After installing the new parts i turned it on and it was acting like this before installig the parts it was working fine just needed a new turbo because it had shaft play thats y i dont understand how i could have nuked it
Last edited by curly; 08-17-2012 at 08:40 PM.
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08-17-2012, 08:15 PM
#23
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The obly thing i can think of that i changed that can make my car act like that is my o2 sensor i had a spare o2 sensor and i cut it and made it longer inorder to reach the downpipe maybe thats my problem??
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08-17-2012, 08:45 PM
#26
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No that won't help. The only thing the RX-7 AFM does is make the AFM opening larger, therefore giving you a little hp in higher RPMs, where the stock AFM chokes off your air a little.
Either one is "adjustable". If you take a knife and cut through the glue and take the top plastic panel off, you can adjust the clock spring stiffness. The stiffer it is, the less the flapper door is open, and I think the leaner it runs, and vise versa.
Do yourself a huge favor and mark where it is immediately after opening it, so you can go back if it doesn't help.
With your wideband installed, adjust the clock spring for a 14.7 idle. If you're still not getting a smooth idle, you've got another issue, but it's a good place to start.
P.S. This is for idle ONLY. The flapper is almost imminently opened with any amount of throttle, and no longer plays a roll in the fueling.
P.P.S. This isn't instant messenger, if you have more than one thought, put them all in one post, not multiple.
Either one is "adjustable". If you take a knife and cut through the glue and take the top plastic panel off, you can adjust the clock spring stiffness. The stiffer it is, the less the flapper door is open, and I think the leaner it runs, and vise versa.
Do yourself a huge favor and mark where it is immediately after opening it, so you can go back if it doesn't help.
With your wideband installed, adjust the clock spring for a 14.7 idle. If you're still not getting a smooth idle, you've got another issue, but it's a good place to start.
P.S. This is for idle ONLY. The flapper is almost imminently opened with any amount of throttle, and no longer plays a roll in the fueling.
P.P.S. This isn't instant messenger, if you have more than one thought, put them all in one post, not multiple.
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08-18-2012, 09:59 AM
#28
No that won't help. The only thing the RX-7 AFM does is make the AFM opening larger, therefore giving you a little hp in higher RPMs, where the stock AFM chokes off your air a little.
Either one is "adjustable". If you take a knife and cut through the glue and take the top plastic panel off, you can adjust the clock spring stiffness. The stiffer it is, the less the flapper door is open, and I think the leaner it runs, and vise versa.
Do yourself a huge favor and mark where it is immediately after opening it, so you can go back if it doesn't help.
With your wideband installed, adjust the clock spring for a 14.7 idle. If you're still not getting a smooth idle, you've got another issue, but it's a good place to start.
P.S. This is for idle ONLY. The flapper is almost imminently opened with any amount of throttle, and no longer plays a roll in the fueling.
P.P.S. This isn't instant messenger, if you have more than one thought, put them all in one post, not multiple.
Either one is "adjustable". If you take a knife and cut through the glue and take the top plastic panel off, you can adjust the clock spring stiffness. The stiffer it is, the less the flapper door is open, and I think the leaner it runs, and vise versa.
Do yourself a huge favor and mark where it is immediately after opening it, so you can go back if it doesn't help.
With your wideband installed, adjust the clock spring for a 14.7 idle. If you're still not getting a smooth idle, you've got another issue, but it's a good place to start.
P.S. This is for idle ONLY. The flapper is almost imminently opened with any amount of throttle, and no longer plays a roll in the fueling.
P.P.S. This isn't instant messenger, if you have more than one thought, put them all in one post, not multiple.
HOWEVER, i have a very big issue with tuning this way. By tightening the spring to run leaner, you're really just keeping the flapper from opening as much as soon, "tricking" the ECU into thinking there's not as much air coming in. So.... it thinks there's less load, and you end up running more timing.
Stock NA ECU + More timing = bad.
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08-18-2012, 10:28 AM
#29
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you said that #4 cylinder wasn't effected when you disconnected the spark plug wire yet you switched plug wires around still #4 didn't do anything?
Did you try disconnecting fuel injector connectors while its running? You may have a bad fuel injector on #4. Disconnect it and see if it changes engine note or not. If it doesn't change engine note, swap the #4 injector to another cylinder and see if its dead on that cylinder.
Did you try disconnecting fuel injector connectors while its running? You may have a bad fuel injector on #4. Disconnect it and see if it changes engine note or not. If it doesn't change engine note, swap the #4 injector to another cylinder and see if its dead on that cylinder.
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08-18-2012, 04:17 PM
#30
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Maybe the injector cables?? Because i was using my 1.6 injectors and it did that so i went with 1.8 injectors and it still did that
Im gonna do the compression teat but i want to make sure i have all the steps right
Warm engine up to normal temperature
Unplug all spark plugs
Unplug cas
Plug in the tester to the cylinder
"Depress" gas pedal??? How do i do that???
Crank it a few times how many?
Im gonna do the compression teat but i want to make sure i have all the steps right
Warm engine up to normal temperature
Unplug all spark plugs
Unplug cas
Plug in the tester to the cylinder
"Depress" gas pedal??? How do i do that???
Crank it a few times how many?
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08-20-2012, 09:47 AM
#35
So let me clarify something here...
Your car was running with one turbo setup. It had proper vac. at idle and was smooth running. You then replaced a bunch of parts and did not driver the car, just started it back up and at this point the idle went out of whack? Or did you install the new parts, have a smooth running car, drove it and now its acting up?
Your car was running with one turbo setup. It had proper vac. at idle and was smooth running. You then replaced a bunch of parts and did not driver the car, just started it back up and at this point the idle went out of whack? Or did you install the new parts, have a smooth running car, drove it and now its acting up?
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08-20-2012, 09:53 AM
#36
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Had one turbo setup was running fine upgraded parts started it and it was out of whack i didnt get a chance to drive it. Replaced manifold (old one was already welded once so decided to upgrade) downpipe and turbo (turbo needed rebuild so i just installed another one) and added intercooler thats it. I started it and it was all bad so i thought maybe the injectors so i wemt with 1.8s but that didnt change anything
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08-20-2012, 10:13 AM
#37
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Your video sounds like you have a major exhaust leak before the turbo. Were there pipe plugs in the number four exhaust runner to block the EGR port and the port on the underside?
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08-20-2012, 10:16 AM
#38
OK, that is helpful to know you didn't drive the car and pop something.
Have you put a timing gun on it? Had you messed with the CAS setting?
Generally, a vac. leak will cause a lower idle and reduced readings on the gauge, but not the surging. I wonder if it's a timing issue.
Have you put a timing gun on it? Had you messed with the CAS setting?
Generally, a vac. leak will cause a lower idle and reduced readings on the gauge, but not the surging. I wonder if it's a timing issue.
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