What did you Torque your ARP Head Studs to?
04-27-2015, 07:02 PM
#1
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9,297
Total Cats: 477
What did you Torque your ARP Head Studs to?
I've read the threads here about them, seems some are going with 48, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, some follow the directions and go to 80....
What are you running? What is best?
I believe I just lifted the head with stock bolts at 60. I'm thinking put the ARPs in and go to 60 maybe 65. What works best?
What are you running? What is best?
I believe I just lifted the head with stock bolts at 60. I'm thinking put the ARPs in and go to 60 maybe 65. What works best?
Reply
0
0
04-27-2015, 10:42 PM
#3
Not as curious as you might think. IIRC it was FM who worked with ARP to get those studs made. Their original torque spec was 49ft.lbs, which matched the factory clamp load. When I bought my first set in 2009, the instructions said 65ft.lbs, so that's what I did. I installed several sets at that setting before looking at a fresh set of instructions somewhere around 2011-2012, and to my surprise they said 80ft.lbs. A little forum reading turned up Bob's experiences with cracked heads at 80ft.lbs. Clearly, the engineer at ARP who said 49 is no longer there, and ARP doesn't care enough to put thought into their specs beyond "X diameter + Y thread pitch = Z torque".
I torque ARP studs to 65ft.lbs.
I torque ARP studs to 65ft.lbs.
Edit : Here's the thread with all the info : ARP Hear Stud Question [sic]
Reply
0
0
05-08-2015, 07:42 PM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Grants Pass, OR.
Posts: 488
Total Cats: 17
I torgue mine to 65# also, but I use the OEM washers. I was working with Bob on his engine when the issue happened and we thought the smaller OD washers from ARP was also a contributing factor.
Reply
0
0
05-08-2015, 09:07 PM
#11
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9,297
Total Cats: 477
Yeap I will definitely use the OEM washers as they are larger than the ones supplied by ARP. I'm also gonna check if I can stack the ARP washers on top of the OEM washer, if that appears any better.
Reply
0
0
05-09-2015, 03:46 PM
#17
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9,297
Total Cats: 477
Question for you guys. If you use the ARPs with their supplied lube, and torque to 60 ft*lbs, how much additional clamping force would you get over using the factory bolts with regular motor oil?
My guess is you probably gain 4-5% from having finer threads, then you probably gain quite a bit from using the low friction lube, my guess would be 20% or more for the same torque. Also the advantage of studs vs bolts, I'm guessing you're looking at probably 25-30% more "clamp force" for the same torque when you add it all up. What do you guys think?
My guess is you probably gain 4-5% from having finer threads, then you probably gain quite a bit from using the low friction lube, my guess would be 20% or more for the same torque. Also the advantage of studs vs bolts, I'm guessing you're looking at probably 25-30% more "clamp force" for the same torque when you add it all up. What do you guys think?
Reply
0
0
05-09-2015, 06:16 PM
#18
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,027
Total Cats: 6,592
When I changed the head gasket on my '92, I used ARP studs with their lube torqued to their spec, and I'm pretty sure I used their washers.
Never heard of this problem before.
Reply
0
0
