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| DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit? |
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#101 | |||
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Ce n'est pas un canard.
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I like the trigger wheel idea. Mine works great, but in retrospect it's laughable how much time I spent getting it right. You won't sell a million of them, but I think in quantity they'd be pretty cheap to do. And dealing with the damn CAS has got to qualify as the single most frustrating thing in all of the Miata-MS community.
Remember that the '90-'95 cars didn't have the factory sensor, and I'm not sure if the 1.6s even have a place to mount it. Dealing with the ShortNose crowd might be an issue, but I'd expect that one design could be made for work for all the '92-'97 cars. I'm less concerned about the NBs, as they've already got a fully supported (by MS2) factory setup.
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The Wheel of Timing: http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t20241/ 1.6 AFM removal guide: http://miatajoe.50megs.com/ Quote:
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#102 | ||
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Junior Member
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I'd be interested in traction bars. I've got a picture somewhere of my car just after leaving the tree, and you can see the rear wheel is quite a bit farther forward from normal.
Too bad you don't make stuff for BG-chassis cars, too- I could use some bars for the EGT.
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1994 Mazda Miata: R-package, 262/262 cams, FM cam gears, FM cat, Roadstersport 3 catback, suspension + brake upgrades. 1995 Ford Escort GT (version 2.5): BP05T, Haltech E6K, etc... waiting for BPD rebuild/install. |
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#103 | |||
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Elite Member
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Quote:
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#104 | |||
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Ce n'est pas un canard.
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Pretty much. Your engines won't be around for much longer anyway.
![]() It might be possible to come up with a single base design that can be drilled to accommodate all years, but it's difficult with your engines. As I recall, the central bolt holds the pulley to the crank, yes? With the later cars, the big bolt holds on the timing gear sprocket, and then the pulley bolts to that with four smaller bolts. That's what made it easy to do for the longnose. Though now that I think about it, this problem may be simpler than I'm giving it credit for. I say this because JR seems to use a single aux pulley design for all of its 1.6 kits, though confusingly, their Boost Upgrade kit is specific to the mid-'91 changeover at VIN 209445.
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The Wheel of Timing: http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20241 1.6 AFM removal guide: http://miatajoe.50megs.com/ Quote:
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#105 | ||
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Newb
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#109 | ||
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Supporting Vendor
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Is the 1.6L idle valve the same as the 1.8L?
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Adaptronic ECU, LC-1 EGO, lightened flywheel, fresh motor swapped in, boost here we come... http://www.boundaryengineering.com Gears are on hold until we get this sorted. |
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#110 | |||
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Junior Member
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BMW sealed monoballs here These are used at the outer end of the upper control arms in the rear, because the spring is loaded between the upper control arm and the body. This joint supports basically the entire weight of the rear corner of the car. Rubber would last about 5 miles. There are some Acuras that use a similar part in the front upper control arms. Don't know dimensions on either part. |
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#111 | ||
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Woot Woot
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Pretty sure you can get the EGR plates from BEGI, not sure about 1.6 idle valves.
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'99 MSI AEM UEGO 550cc Inj - T3-60 - BEGI S5 Mani - Tial 38mm WG - ACT HD - HDHCDD M2- Koni Sports - 525/350 GCs - RB 1.125
MSPNP FAQ - DoItYourself Megasquirt How-To - Megamanual - Factory Wiring Diagrams - AEM/MS Calibration DIY Turbo Miata FAQ |
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