03 VVT Miata- SLOW- 140k- Trying to figure out why it is slow? Power feels linear.
05-07-2013, 01:59 PM
#21
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It's all good 
If the VVT is out of whack, it should throw a code. I have not seen it fail for the most part, other than when people pull it apart by accident. I'd also throw a timing light on it just to make sure the timing is correct. It would almost seem more likely that the timing would be off or something of that nature than the converter being clogged. It would help you greatly if you could throw a WB02 on there and watch your AFRs.
If you're going to do any playing with the exhaust, you might as well just get a newer, better system. I'd highly recommend looking at Enthuza exhausts.
Funny what a little vacuum leak can do.
If the VVT is out of whack, it should throw a code. I have not seen it fail for the most part, other than when people pull it apart by accident. I'd also throw a timing light on it just to make sure the timing is correct. It would almost seem more likely that the timing would be off or something of that nature than the converter being clogged. It would help you greatly if you could throw a WB02 on there and watch your AFRs.
If you're going to do any playing with the exhaust, you might as well just get a newer, better system. I'd highly recommend looking at Enthuza exhausts.
Funny what a little vacuum leak can do.
I've been told about a VVT tuber per se'. It's where the actuator valve that called for replacement via the service bullitin. I'm going to blow it out with carb cleaner.
The only reason that I am leaning towards the CAT being clogged is that
others that have had ignition problems have had to replace their CAT converters shortly afterwards. Trust me, I'm not excited about throwing money at a problem and seeing if it will fix it.
Next up, Changeing out the coil pack. By this point I would think that teh car will have a littel bit more umph...
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05-09-2013, 07:31 AM
#22
IMHO/IIRC, The majority of the problems of the ignition/converter you speak of were with the NB1 (99/00) cars and their coilpacks going bad (pretty common), which would cause raw fuel to get into the cat and superheat the element and eventually blow it out. I have not really heard of any problems with the NB2 ignition and this issue.
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05-10-2013, 03:26 PM
#27
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That was my point, if he gets discouraged this much diagnosing his stock miata then he should not even consider adding the complexity of a turbo setup and standalone EMS to the equation. Stock cars are easy to diagnose.
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05-11-2013, 04:37 PM
#28
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Some people say that this car runs perfectly fine. I disagree. It has more power hidden inside and I need to unlock this power before I even think about going FI.
Once I figure this out then I'll start working towards either a Winter build or a good person to take it to for a turbo install.
The only way I'll go FI is if it's plug and play. I'm not teh guy for remapping fuel curves at teh start line. And I hate it when a car leaves me stranded.
I've owned two supercharged Corvettes. Both L98 C-4's and both were a nightmare. Tubes comming off all the time. Limp home mode. Incorrect air fuel- blown motors. Swore off of boost a long time ago. But I've heard that you guys have the turbo kits for a miata down to a science.
I hope that this new CAT will open the car up a bit. I currently own two miatas, a 91 stock with 198k and an 03 vvt, guess which one is currently faster?
I need to change this.
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05-11-2013, 07:49 PM
#29
And guess which one is lighter. With the exception of the Mazdaspeed, Miatas did not get appreciably faster through the years. They got heavier and a bit more power was added to compensate. I would not change the cat unless a backpressure check or visual inspection showed that it was bad. Could easily be a waste of money.
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05-11-2013, 08:06 PM
#31
On some vehicles, after sitting overnight and being started, the MIL comes on and DTC P2004 sets into PCM memory. This occurs because vacuum (momentarily) does not flow into the Variable Tumble Control System (VTCS) shutter valve actuator. The contact surface between the valve and the valve body inside the check valve is smooth, causing the valve to momentarily stick before more vacuum applies, opening the valve.
Is the VTCS something that could get in the way of this motor making power?
Is the VTCS something that could get in the way of this motor making power?
(I ditched it completely on my car, removed the butterflies, pulled the shaft out and epoxied the shaft bores.)
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