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1.6, 1.8, 2.0 Physical size

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Old 05-16-2010, 12:31 PM
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Default 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 Physical size

I have a 1.6 in my kitcar and planning upgrades. With the 1.6 the oil pan has 3.5 inches of clearance and the hood sits on the engine- so a little snug. I would think the 1.8 is the same size but what about a later 2.0? Looking at Flying Miata site the 1.8 has more potential and larger should have more. Where do I look for physical dimensions? I'm shopping for used upgrade components. Mines the yellow car. thank you
Attached Thumbnails 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 Physical size-track-shrunk.jpg  
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Old 05-16-2010, 01:08 PM
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The 1.6 and 1.8 engines are similar. The bore-to-bore spacing is slightly larger on the 1.8, with the result that the engine is an inch or two longer overall.

The 2006 and later 2.0 engine is from a completely different family, and I can't recall seeing any dimensional comparisons of it. I can tell you that it has a different bellhousing pattern from the NA and NB engines, so unless you want to swap out your transmission as well, I'd forget about the 2.0 engine. It also flows "backwards" relative to the 1.6 / 1.8, with the intake and exhaust positions swapped on the head.
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Old 05-16-2010, 01:16 PM
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Joe thanks for the reply. The 1.6 is a short nose, I have length available for a 1.8 but haven't yet sized an intercooler. Swapping intake/exhaust is actually better for street driving as it puts the exhaust away from me. I'd have to check the trany sizing also then with a 2.0.
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Old 05-16-2010, 01:16 PM
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Why do you want a bigger motor? How about just bolting a small snail it now?
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Old 05-16-2010, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by levnubhin
Why do you want a bigger motor? How about just bolting a small snail it now?
I agree with this. The 1.6 is a perfectly good candidate for a turbo setup. Everything fits now, I would just work with that.
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Old 05-16-2010, 03:08 PM
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I know the FE 2.0 Is quite a bit bigger
I would imagine that the duratec or w.e they use now is bigger as well.

+1 for turbo
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Old 05-16-2010, 03:45 PM
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yeah plus you would have to spend more money to get the motor. i would say turbo the 1.6. you can always get more 1.6's cheap
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Old 05-16-2010, 04:53 PM
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Staying 1.6 was my first line of thinking but the add on's or redo's of internal parts quickly exceed the price of a motor. I'm guessing that low mileage wrecker 1.6 are getting scarce if I keep hp below where I need aftermarket internals. Are 1.6 internals much less expensive than 1.8 ?
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by twpipe
Staying 1.6 was my first line of thinking but the add on's or redo's of internal parts quickly exceed the price of a motor. I'm guessing that low mileage wrecker 1.6 are getting scarce if I keep hp below where I need aftermarket internals. Are 1.6 internals much less expensive than 1.8 ?
Theyre cheaper actually.
Also, why do you need built internals? You an get big gains on stock internals.
Unless you want a 350 hp locost...
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:37 PM
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How much power are you looking for? What does that car weigh? I would imagine with 200 whp that thing would be a rocket. Bolt on a 2554 or 2560, 3" exhaust, 12 psi and be full of win.
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:17 PM
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225-250 hp is my target, but it is a weekend car so with turbo just crank it up.
guessing car weighs 1300 lbs.

What are the advantages of the different stand alones ecu? There is a TEC 3 off a 1.6 available locally but my dyno guy warned be away from it.
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:23 PM
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Most people here use the Megasquirt system, and it seems to work really well. I'm using the AEM EMS, and it's awesome. I also am selling one for a friend if you're interested (it still costs more then the megasquirt though).
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Old 05-16-2010, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by twpipe
225-250 hp is my target, but it is a weekend car so with turbo just crank it up.
guessing car weighs 1300 lbs.

What are the advantages of the different stand alones ecu? There is a TEC 3 off a 1.6 available locally but my dyno guy warned be away from it.
I would keep the 1.6, strap on a 2854 with a cast mani, 3" exhaust and megasquirt ecu.
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