I am getting ready to start gathering the right parts for my engine build, but not sure of some things and have questions. I am currently running a shortnose and also got a spare 1.6 shortnose take apart which I was going to build but I guess its no worth building a shortnose so here are some questions I have. I want to eventually build a motor that can handle more boost. I also have ETD rods on hand and now not sure which parts to pick up for a decent build. I don't track the car it's more just for fun. I plan on getting the head ported and maybe go with 1mm bigger valves. Do suggest where I can pick up fairly inexpensive parts for the build. 1. Is the short nose block the same as a longnose block? 2. If the blocks are the same, can it be converted to a longnose and if so what is needed for the conversion? 3. I never built a turbo motor before so not sure which parts to get. Does anyone make a cheap set of forged pistons or anyone here got some they might wana sell? I can use any information I can get. So do disuss it as I have no clue where to start.

__________________
90 1.6 mariner blue, MSPNP, GT2560r, HKS manifold, DIY dual feed rail, 460cc, GM EBC, Greddy RS BOV, 2.5" custom DP, 3" custom stainless exhaust (no cat), Treadstone intercooler, ebay 2.5 IC piping, 3.9 torsen, Clutchnet 3x PP, 6 puck disk, AEM WB Uego, Mishimoto radiator

it doesn't matter. i have a short nose and beat the **** out of it, along with my stock 1.6 rear end. just use what you have.

What do you guys think of this kit?? I thinking of buying it without the rods since I have the ETD. The guy at Belfab can give this kit without the rods for $1365 plus shipping.

http://www.belfabracing.com/product_...9bc2f4d69dfa26

Come on guys help me out. All I got is one reply....Let me know if I should just use the spare shortnose I have and build it? I need some more replys.

FYI:

Run a tap thru the crank bolt hole b4 putting the bolt in - use pbblaster when doing this, then follow with a lot of brake cleaner so the new locktite will hold strong (or you will have the fun I did). Buy a new crank bolt and woodruff key too. It should finger thread easily otherwise it will not torque properly and you'll have a lot of fun :-P If you do all of that I don't see any reason why not to use the short nose - but maybe someone else here will chime in.
-B

I did the shortnose crank fix as follows on m.net's writeup 4 years ago about 2 weeks before I went turbo and have had ZERO issues.

Alot of people sweat the **** out of the SNC, but as long as you read about the problem and correct it.....you should be fine.

I replaced everything with new parts (I also did the TB/waterpump at the same time) and used loctite. Torqued to spec and forgot about it.

Vash-

Write up is good - I'd add - let the **** cure for 2 days before starting the car - to be on the safe side. I did and have had great results (long nose tho - but with significant keyway wear - see the thread on this "timing issues or timing slipping"). Use loctite red and a lot of it. PB blaster will disolve it if you need to remove the bolt later on.
-B