can't get it to start!
08-10-2010, 06:55 PM
#21
Boost Pope
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Man, there are just so many different things that could be wrong here...
I don't think it's the crank or cam sensors. Those would almost certainly throw a CEL.
Could this be a fueling problem? Dead pump, clogged filter, faulty FPR, something in that neighborhood? It would be convenient if you were able to insert a pressure gauge between the fuel rail and the hose feeding into it.
To answer the question, a leakdown tester is a gadget you stick into the spark plug hole (similar to a compression tester) but you then hook it up to an air compressor and blow pressurized air into the cylinder, with a gauge to measure how much of it is leaking out. If there is serious leakage, you can then use your eyes and ears to figure out where it's leaking from. Bubbles in the radiator = HG, flow out the oil cap = rings, flow out the tailpipe = exhaust valves, flow out the TB = intake valves.
I don't think it's the crank or cam sensors. Those would almost certainly throw a CEL.
Could this be a fueling problem? Dead pump, clogged filter, faulty FPR, something in that neighborhood? It would be convenient if you were able to insert a pressure gauge between the fuel rail and the hose feeding into it.
To answer the question, a leakdown tester is a gadget you stick into the spark plug hole (similar to a compression tester) but you then hook it up to an air compressor and blow pressurized air into the cylinder, with a gauge to measure how much of it is leaking out. If there is serious leakage, you can then use your eyes and ears to figure out where it's leaking from. Bubbles in the radiator = HG, flow out the oil cap = rings, flow out the tailpipe = exhaust valves, flow out the TB = intake valves.
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08-10-2010, 06:58 PM
#22
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it screws in. its brand new from harbor fright
the cheapest one, heres the link
http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-dr...ter-92697.html
the cheapest one, heres the link
http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-dr...ter-92697.html
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08-10-2010, 08:41 PM
#27
Boost Pope
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Wait. Let me be sure I've got this right:
First, you were driving the car, and it stalled and would not restart.
Then, rather than finding out what was wrong and fixing it, you installed a turbo on it?
First, you were driving the car, and it stalled and would not restart.
Then, rather than finding out what was wrong and fixing it, you installed a turbo on it?
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08-10-2010, 10:14 PM
#30
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yes because i started it one day and it ran on only 1&4 cyl. so i figured it was the coil pack. i then put the turbo on when i was waiting for the parts to get it. i got a new to me used coil packs. right now i am waiting on brand new ones to try again
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08-11-2010, 03:24 AM
#31
Cpt. Slow
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STOP BUYING PARTS RIGHT NOW YOU MORON
Joe, you're absolutely right.
Nicky (that's what I'm calling you now), please stop throwing parts at the car. I need you to do a couple things.
Take pictures of your engine bay, with close ups of the turbo and turbo manifold, valve cover, and intake manifold, especially if you have any fueling systems bolted to your firewall.
Then I need you to upload those pictures on to your computer, then to photobucket.com, then on to this site for us to look at.
Secondly, I need you to take out all of your spark plugs, put them back in the spark plug wires, place them carefully on the valve cover, and take a video of them while you hold the starter on for ~5 seconds.
Then, I need you to take off all the timing belt covers, put the crank at TDC, and take a good, in focus picture of the crank sprocket, and both cam sprockets. Take the two cam sprocket pictures straight in front of them, no angles.
When you have done all this, and are ready to post these pictures and videos, do so carefully, and with liberal and correct usage of the shift key.
Joe, you're absolutely right.
Nicky (that's what I'm calling you now), please stop throwing parts at the car. I need you to do a couple things.
Take pictures of your engine bay, with close ups of the turbo and turbo manifold, valve cover, and intake manifold, especially if you have any fueling systems bolted to your firewall.
Then I need you to upload those pictures on to your computer, then to photobucket.com, then on to this site for us to look at.
Secondly, I need you to take out all of your spark plugs, put them back in the spark plug wires, place them carefully on the valve cover, and take a video of them while you hold the starter on for ~5 seconds.
Then, I need you to take off all the timing belt covers, put the crank at TDC, and take a good, in focus picture of the crank sprocket, and both cam sprockets. Take the two cam sprocket pictures straight in front of them, no angles.
When you have done all this, and are ready to post these pictures and videos, do so carefully, and with liberal and correct usage of the shift key.
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08-11-2010, 10:19 AM
#33
STOP BUYING PARTS RIGHT NOW YOU MORON
Joe, you're absolutely right.
Nicky (that's what I'm calling you now), please stop throwing parts at the car. I need you to do a couple things.
Take pictures of your engine bay, with close ups of the turbo and turbo manifold, valve cover, and intake manifold, especially if you have any fueling systems bolted to your firewall.
Then I need you to upload those pictures on to your computer, then to photobucket.com, then on to this site for us to look at.
Secondly, I need you to take out all of your spark plugs, put them back in the spark plug wires, place them carefully on the valve cover, and take a video of them while you hold the starter on for ~5 seconds.
Then, I need you to take off all the timing belt covers, put the crank at TDC, and take a good, in focus picture of the crank sprocket, and both cam sprockets. Take the two cam sprocket pictures straight in front of them, no angles.
When you have done all this, and are ready to post these pictures and videos, do so carefully, and with liberal and correct usage of the shift key.
Joe, you're absolutely right.
Nicky (that's what I'm calling you now), please stop throwing parts at the car. I need you to do a couple things.
Take pictures of your engine bay, with close ups of the turbo and turbo manifold, valve cover, and intake manifold, especially if you have any fueling systems bolted to your firewall.
Then I need you to upload those pictures on to your computer, then to photobucket.com, then on to this site for us to look at.
Secondly, I need you to take out all of your spark plugs, put them back in the spark plug wires, place them carefully on the valve cover, and take a video of them while you hold the starter on for ~5 seconds.
Then, I need you to take off all the timing belt covers, put the crank at TDC, and take a good, in focus picture of the crank sprocket, and both cam sprockets. Take the two cam sprocket pictures straight in front of them, no angles.
When you have done all this, and are ready to post these pictures and videos, do so carefully, and with liberal and correct usage of the shift key.
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08-12-2010, 10:57 PM
#35
Cpt. Slow
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Good lord it might not be the coil. Swap the wiring from 2&3 over to 1&4 and see if it works. The coil, and the other three, should be fine.
We still need those pictures, especially of the timing belt.
We still need those pictures, especially of the timing belt.
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08-12-2010, 11:12 PM
#36
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its not the belt. i am about to swap wires even know they got 1k miles on them. i tested power at both coils and get 12.2 on both, i did the signal and it kinda bounced around
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08-12-2010, 11:29 PM
#38
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okay! all wires are good, coils are good also. theres a proplem with getting signal to the coil the fires 1&4 so what could that be?
ITS NOT THE BELT. i can see that its not sparking
ITS NOT THE BELT. i can see that its not sparking
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08-13-2010, 08:33 AM
#39
Check wiring harness at ECU for continuity.
If no wires are broke/pulled out at the ECU Harness, then:
Check resistance across each of the wires from ECU to Engine harness to figure out which wire does not have continuity.
You can test the wire at different points and hope that it's broken in a place which is easy to repair (avg difficulty)
-or-
You can run a new wire and leave the old one in the harness (Hard)
-or-
You can remove and replace the broke wire in the harness. (A ******* pain in the ***)
Finally:
Your car stopped running, and instead of fixing the problem, you installed a turbocharger. Post pics of timing belt.
If no wires are broke/pulled out at the ECU Harness, then:
Check resistance across each of the wires from ECU to Engine harness to figure out which wire does not have continuity.
You can test the wire at different points and hope that it's broken in a place which is easy to repair (avg difficulty)
-or-
You can run a new wire and leave the old one in the harness (Hard)
-or-
You can remove and replace the broke wire in the harness. (A ******* pain in the ***)
Finally:
Your car stopped running, and instead of fixing the problem, you installed a turbocharger. Post pics of timing belt.
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