just quickly, ive done a search and have come up with how to do it, but is it the same for the 1.6L as the 1.8L? and for the thermostat housing do i still buy a 1.6? or do i need the 1.8 for angular issues??? help!!

ps, im still searching as i speak and i am getting more info... still not what im looking for tho... is the jr spacer only used if you want to leave the engine in the car while you do this?

You use a 1.6 housing, it's the same for both 1.6 and 1.8.
You only need the spacer if you want to fab everything up and install it in car. If you take the head off you can drill and tap the head for your sensor and heatercore line. In which case the spacer would not be needed.

Thank you, Do you know of a step by step site? im going off of pauls homepage and a site i found for a team that did it..? also do you know if you need to purchase any parts? or can i buy the pipes pre-fabed? like paul's look pre-fabbed

begi has alot of info.
BGR did a write up not to long ago as well.
http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/show...oolant+reroute

brg posted his how-to here: http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/show...ght=spacerless

begi sells a complete reroute kit here: http://bellengineering.net/Pages/intheshop.html

949racing and gearhead garage will be selling the qmax soon.

Pauls was made by TurboTim, it was a custom job.

thanks! ill read up on it, does anyone know if one way is necessarily better then another way? I know some people are saying route the coolant around to the intake side so it doesnt get heated even more. sounds logical, any other tricks? i need the most amount of cooling possible... thanks for your help guys... next weekends project.... stage 3 clutch, newer 5spd transmission, new fans 1975cfm each, and coolant re-route, then following WBo2 sensor, walbro 190HP fuel pump and maybe a new exhaust

beat you to it Chad 1 fast miata it is up to preference hotside or coldside, is just as easy as the other.

alright so be honest with me... im looking for the absolute MOST cooling possible, should i ...
A. Buy the kit for 139?
B. drill the head
C. follow Brg
D. follow pauls setup
E. fab my own system (father owns a machine shop)
F. get in touch with turbo tim for parts

and should i include the heater core?

Make a spacer for the back of the head, put the heatercore and temp sender in the spacer, then bolt the 1.6 outlet to the spacer, weld a hardline to the outlet and fab the rest up to run coldside around the motor to the radiator, join the hardline to the radiator with a hose and you're done.

You can see how the spacer is used here. http://users.telenet.be/miata/englis...nt_reroute.htm

is it better to use the heatercore? because i would like to get rid of it... extra weight

If you dont want heat in the cabin, then ditch it. Its a personal choice, not something to seek advice on....

If you remove the heater core, make sure you put a couple of small holes in the flange of the thermostat so that you get some circulation before it opens.

I found this page sometime ago: http://users.pandora.be/miata/.

Click on: coolant reroute.

I think you may find it useful.

Rafa

http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14515

This is what I did. Got a new top hose made up outta alloy, and a new front housing to move the ecu thermoswitch there. I have MSPNP controlling my fan but you could always get a bung welded into the new top pipe for the sensor if you wanted. its just runnig the stock housing relocated to the back of the head.

Seems to work really well and is pretty neat. As an added bonus the front of the new front housing pretty much lines up with the front of the water pump pulley so it leaves heaps of room in front of the motor for a water to air cooler for later on.

Tim

not trying to hijack, but i have a similar type question. i have already removed my heater core (along with almost everything else that wasnt welded in). the kit i have is a begi, it comes with a coolant reroute which i ran, but instead of going into the heater core, i just ran it back to the upper radiator hose. i have been told that i can just cap it off, will this limit circulation at all? if not, i would like to remove it comepletly, and if i remove it completly, what do i use to seal up the out coming off the rear of the engine under the coil pack?

If you haven't pulled a line off the back to the top of the radiator, then blocking the Begi will cause you to have NO cooling at the back and will probably cost you a motor.

The Begi unit is used just to get the line for the heater core away from the turbo and give you a return route.

Optimum routing blocks the front thermostat port completely, sends the water across all of the cylinders and out the back and then on to the radiator. If the heater core is left in the circuit, the thermostat requires a small hole to make sure there is enough flow that the thermostat sees the temperature rise.

In a system like Paul's, the thermostat has larger holes drilled in the flange to make sure there is flow over the back of the engine at all times, since the heater core route is no longer available.

__________________
'91 Pkg A, Red, Clocked 15g, Starion, Beautiful Artech Turbo Back, 2001 inj, 190lph HP, 1.8 OEM Flywheel, ZM2-XTSS, coolant reroute, Zeitronix WBO2, AM boost and FP, FM BOV, Hallman MBC, 626 AFM, 14+psi, Emanage, Autotune, KYB AGX w/ground controls, 15x9 6ULw/RS-3s

ok, so then i did the right thing by keeping the return from the bak of the motor and routing it to the "t" that begi supplied in there kit (its on the upper rad hose) btw, i got this motor from you!

is it a good idea to leave the heater core in? ie.. worth the weight, and does it provide any extra cooling?

what does that do in pauls situation? provide more cooling?