Crumb

A few days ago I could only shift if I pumped the clutch up.
So I replaced the slave and master cylinder together thinking one could be not too far behind the other.
I have bench bled the master cylinder however can not get ANY air or fluid out of the slave cylinder bleeder screw while attempting to bleed it

I am completely stumped and there is nothing online matching this

Should I replace the loop de loop part of the hydraulic line? My thought is that it is the cause of the 'blockage'

Thanks

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

If you think you have a leak somewhere along the lines, i'd go further than just replacing the "loop de loop" part of the hydraulic line. There's an "Extended Clutch Line" that you can buy for our cars that's a single line from the master straight to the slave.

Crumb

I dont think its a leak in the lines as the fluid in the master cylinder has never gone down before or after replacement

tomrev

Have you opened the line going to the slave, to see if you have fluid pumping there? If not, the slave isn't the problem. Sometimes it's a bitch to get the M.C. to start flowing, so I'd start there.

curly

iTrader: (25)

What's your bleed procedure?

mikep554

When I replaced my slave + line, I did the first part of the bleed slightly differently from how I have bled brakes. For brakes, I would have my assistant press the pedal down, open the bleeder, allow some fluid out, close bleeder, assistant releases pedal. I had better results getting the clutch started by first opening the bleeder, then having assistant press the pedal down, closing bleeder, and assistant releasing pedal. Once we did this 6 or 8 times, a good amount of fluid had moved into the line and slave and worked more as expected.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Fill MC, then REMOVE the bleeder on the SC.
Wait a while. You can go take care of other stuff instead of just waiting.
The fluid will creep down the line and start dripping out of the bleeder hole at the SC.

Once that happens, reinstall the bleeder screw, tighten it, and have someone pump the pedal till they start feeling some - any - resistance.
As soon as there is resistance at the pedal, proceed with the normal bleeding method.

When you think all the air has been purged, do not sop there and do two more rounds of bleeding the damn line.
You will get a few more bubbles.

You need to have your helper to pump the pedal multiple times, and pretty vigorously for the final 2 rounds of bleeding.

Trust me, you will have a working clutch after that.

Krack

maybe replace the bleeder screw?

technicalninja

Reverse bleed it!
Start with system empty. It is important to not have any fluid in the master.
Purchase a reverse bleeder or make one yourself.
I used a spray pump included with a bottle of round up weed killer.
You need a pump that has a round exit tip so you can put a piece of vacuum tube on it.
It helps to have a pump with a flexible suction tube.
Place suction tube into bottle of brake fluid and attach to slave bleeder with vacuum hose. Open bleeder 1 turn.
Start pumping while someone watches the fluid level in master.
Works far better than I thought it would.
I start with this method now.

sometorque

iTrader: (1)

100% this. I had a ************ of a time bleeding my car with the "loop de loop" and ended up replacing it a few months later with a straight shot SS line. 10x eaiser to bleed.

Crumb

Problem fixed. Not one to throw parts at a car but that does work sometimes.
After trying many of these suggestions to no avail, I bit the bullet and bought another slave cylinder. took all of 7-8 cracks of the bleeder and it was ready to go.
Another example of why you don't cheap out on anything with seals or just dont buy duralast lol

Thanks