So I recently did a bunch of stuff to my engine. Never did anything to the interior. I had a spark at one point from the alternator when adjusting the belt. So what I changed was the water pump/timing belt, accessory belt, motor mounts, and clutch. So the only thing I have issues with is the gauges. The rest of the electronics are working fine. Its a 1994 manual. The meter fuse will pop when revving the engine or sometimes when just idling(have tried going from a 15a fuse to a 30a, same problem). I have checked grounds and seem to isolated the problem to the gauge wiring system, without the gauges connected the fuse still blows when revving the engine. Although I can not tell the fuse blows when the two instrument cluster connectors are not connected. Again all the other electronics work and no other fuse ever blew. I have looked at a 96 factory manual and can see nothing else that connects to the gauge system in the wiring diagrams. I have also changed the white part of the instrument cluster and flex board, which seemed to of helped a bit, but now that doesnt seem to be the issue. Anyone know whats going on or how to fix this?

anyone?

can anyone help. I have isolated the problem to revving over 4k. WE checked most everything I can see that connects to the meter fuse, none seem to be causing this issue or at least from tests I have seen online. I have yet to remove the radio and gauges and check there, but both are functioning fine and the radio isnt on when this problem occurs. The o2 sensor is on a wideband so I dont think that would be a problem. So it seems this problem is partially related to my alternator, which is gone. With the alternator disconnected things will work fine with a 30a fuse, but blow on a 15 amp fuse, any ideas?

Do you have anything that's not stock getting power from that fuse?

I dont beleive so, I mean I have an oil temp gauge, wideband, those 2 seem to be running off the room fuse. I did not build the turbo car, but I can not see anything after 2 weeks of troubleshooting, anything that connects to it.

If your positive it is RPM related, then focus in the things that change with RPM. The tacho in the dash, anything ignition system related, etc. From what I know reading your post, I really have no clue. Something must be shorting out to blow a 30 amp.

Is there anything else odd going on, even if it's small?

well I figured out I blew the regulator in the alternator and that was causing it to blow the 30 am cause it would jump to 17-18 volts output. Upon running the car off just the battery, it will work with a 30, a bit warm, but it will run. Put in a 15 amp problem comes back

bump

Check all of your grounds. Sounds like one of them is loose or missing.