Miata newbie looking for advice/help
#21
I think you have a good plan with swapping stuff into a 90-93. You seem to be confident with your wrenching skills, so you should be able to do all the work yourself. If you can find a sturdy platform to swap into, I think you will have a better all around setup. In the end, this is a track car that "might" come home smashed on a flatbed. Why use a 3500 dollar shell when theres perfectly good 1000 dollar shells. Also, its a lot easier to pull the trigger and weld a cage into a cheaper car that has no intentions of ever being a street car.
Brakes, you need to at least buy the 600 dollar wilwood setup from either 949 racing or trackspeed. In my opinion i would never touch the track without them, i dont want to go into a turn in triple digits and have any brake fade.
One other thing about swapping everything in. Along the way you will be able to clean up everything (engine bay especially) and remove anything you dont want. You can do a coolant reroute much easier, tap the oil pan much easier, and other things im forgetting. If you do it right, going through the ENTIRE car with updated parts installed correctly, will make you an expert of the car and you will know when and where any problems are.
Just my opinion
Brakes, you need to at least buy the 600 dollar wilwood setup from either 949 racing or trackspeed. In my opinion i would never touch the track without them, i dont want to go into a turn in triple digits and have any brake fade.
One other thing about swapping everything in. Along the way you will be able to clean up everything (engine bay especially) and remove anything you dont want. You can do a coolant reroute much easier, tap the oil pan much easier, and other things im forgetting. If you do it right, going through the ENTIRE car with updated parts installed correctly, will make you an expert of the car and you will know when and where any problems are.
Just my opinion
#23
That sounds like the best plan. Plus, my Hyundai is pretty much track ready for any time the Miata could be down.
The 1.6L has full forged internals correct? If that's the case, why bother boosting the 1.8?
How much power can the 1.6 handle?
I take it the 6-spd mates to the 1.6?
Who makes cams for the 1.6?
preferred clutch/fw setup?
Are the clutches over rated? For ex. if you're making 250whp/200wtq, and you're using a stg 2 CM clutch rated for.. as an example 300, would that hold? Hold on the track?
Not sure if I mentioned this before.. but my tib is around 200whp and 2,900lbs. I get up to 120-130 on the Grattan's back straight. With a set of shitty EBC Yellowshit (literally the only pad made for my car without a 2-3 month wait time + "engineering fee") I was able to stop pretty well, not to mention it didn't fade until 10-15 minutes into the session. With lap times of 1:30-1:40 which means I was putting in 8-10 laps with serious braking, I'm surprised it didn't fade faster.
But yeah, I need to upgrade the Tib's brakes and the Miata's when I purchase it. Not the biggest fan of wilwood, but I can deal with it. Just needs regular maintenance. The beautiful part about wilwood brakes is that the calipers are stupid cheap. FBDL calipers are $200 for the set lol.
Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I know what i'm doing, though i'm still a little hazy about if I should stick with the 1.6 and put the 6-spd in or swap the 1.8 and pretty much rework everything.. i'll figure all that when the time comes. For the moment it looks like I need to find a 89-93 for cheap, then just track it with good brake fluid and pads, learn the car, and then go from there.
BTW, i'm not the greatest with a wrench, the tib was the first car that i've worked on (modified) and I have pretty much torn everything apart short of the short block.. i've learned a lot, and mostly by myself since there really aren't a lot of Hyundai guys around me.
With the Miata, though, there are a handful of people around me that are more than willing to lend a hand. Most of them track their cars, so I know I won't be left in the dark like I am with the Hyundai.
The 1.6L has full forged internals correct? If that's the case, why bother boosting the 1.8?
How much power can the 1.6 handle?
I take it the 6-spd mates to the 1.6?
Who makes cams for the 1.6?
preferred clutch/fw setup?
Are the clutches over rated? For ex. if you're making 250whp/200wtq, and you're using a stg 2 CM clutch rated for.. as an example 300, would that hold? Hold on the track?
Not sure if I mentioned this before.. but my tib is around 200whp and 2,900lbs. I get up to 120-130 on the Grattan's back straight. With a set of shitty EBC Yellowshit (literally the only pad made for my car without a 2-3 month wait time + "engineering fee") I was able to stop pretty well, not to mention it didn't fade until 10-15 minutes into the session. With lap times of 1:30-1:40 which means I was putting in 8-10 laps with serious braking, I'm surprised it didn't fade faster.
But yeah, I need to upgrade the Tib's brakes and the Miata's when I purchase it. Not the biggest fan of wilwood, but I can deal with it. Just needs regular maintenance. The beautiful part about wilwood brakes is that the calipers are stupid cheap. FBDL calipers are $200 for the set lol.
Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I know what i'm doing, though i'm still a little hazy about if I should stick with the 1.6 and put the 6-spd in or swap the 1.8 and pretty much rework everything.. i'll figure all that when the time comes. For the moment it looks like I need to find a 89-93 for cheap, then just track it with good brake fluid and pads, learn the car, and then go from there.
BTW, i'm not the greatest with a wrench, the tib was the first car that i've worked on (modified) and I have pretty much torn everything apart short of the short block.. i've learned a lot, and mostly by myself since there really aren't a lot of Hyundai guys around me.
With the Miata, though, there are a handful of people around me that are more than willing to lend a hand. Most of them track their cars, so I know I won't be left in the dark like I am with the Hyundai.
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