New guy post.... How reliable are turbo miatas?
#1
New guy post.... How reliable are turbo miatas?
Hey guys, my name is Tom, and i am a supra owner.
Recently i have been debating giving up the supra game and transferring it over to something small and light with a turbo. But since i was looking at these cars, i have noticed that 1, they have a small rear end, and 2 that some people don't even use engine management.
How reliable are these things for this kinds of car, and what can i expect with these cars in term of any other problems.
Recently i have been debating giving up the supra game and transferring it over to something small and light with a turbo. But since i was looking at these cars, i have noticed that 1, they have a small rear end, and 2 that some people don't even use engine management.
How reliable are these things for this kinds of car, and what can i expect with these cars in term of any other problems.
#2
I am not gonna even attempt to answer that, you should know better than to ask such a noob question...
You should know that your budget will determine how reliable any build is.
Bone stock, you cannot kill a Miata unless you neglect critical maintnance, with boost come problems, how many and how big depends on how much boost and all other supporting mods.
Make a proper introduction in a proper forum and your stay here will be much more welcomed. We don't spoonfeed people here.
Now, Pics or BAN!!!
You cannot storm in here talking about turbo supras and not give us any pictures...or vids. If you have neither, nude wifes or girlfriends will do.
You should know that your budget will determine how reliable any build is.
Bone stock, you cannot kill a Miata unless you neglect critical maintnance, with boost come problems, how many and how big depends on how much boost and all other supporting mods.
Make a proper introduction in a proper forum and your stay here will be much more welcomed. We don't spoonfeed people here.
Now, Pics or BAN!!!
You cannot storm in here talking about turbo supras and not give us any pictures...or vids. If you have neither, nude wifes or girlfriends will do.
Last edited by Zabac; 07-21-2008 at 05:26 PM. Reason: almost forgot pics
#3
Since you already have experience with turbo vehicles, I'll go ahead and assume you understand that as your goals (and boost pressure) become more lofty the need for sturdier hardware and more comprehensive engine management increases.
The block is good for around 15 psi (debatable and there are other factors, of course) on the factory internals, the rear in the 1.6 cars blows fairly easily even at low-boost and in some cases at stock power, but it is easy enough to swap to the later rear from a 1.8 car (6" gear versus 7"). Transmissions are also a known weak point.
Fewer and fewer people around here rely on something other than a replacement ECU for engine management, or at least it seems that way. Most NA owners use a Megasquirt and many NB owners use a Hydra EMS.
The block is good for around 15 psi (debatable and there are other factors, of course) on the factory internals, the rear in the 1.6 cars blows fairly easily even at low-boost and in some cases at stock power, but it is easy enough to swap to the later rear from a 1.8 car (6" gear versus 7"). Transmissions are also a known weak point.
Fewer and fewer people around here rely on something other than a replacement ECU for engine management, or at least it seems that way. Most NA owners use a Megasquirt and many NB owners use a Hydra EMS.
#4
If you are looking at a 90-97 car, in a nutshell, the small (6") rearends are not good for boosted cars. They are on 90-39 cars. The 7" (94+, especially torsen LSD are fine to about 260-270 WHP, maybe more depending on driving habits.
There is really no reason to run without engine management with Megasquirt plug and play and other ECU's are available for about $700. Yes, you can spend more (Hydra, etc) but not necessary. And, you can run with band-aid fixes, but the total cost is about the same as MS.
EDIT: Whoops, I was slow.
There is really no reason to run without engine management with Megasquirt plug and play and other ECU's are available for about $700. Yes, you can spend more (Hydra, etc) but not necessary. And, you can run with band-aid fixes, but the total cost is about the same as MS.
EDIT: Whoops, I was slow.
Last edited by Stein; 07-21-2008 at 04:23 PM. Reason: I am a slow typist.
#5
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Done well they are pretty reliable. I'm going on to 30k miles, relatively trouble free. Haven't really needed anything that I can't call "maintenance" on an old car.
Engine management, and not running more boost than your management is capable of controlling, is key.
Engine management, and not running more boost than your management is capable of controlling, is key.
#8
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reliable. mine's had a diy setup on it for over 3 years and 10s of thousands of miles. i dont push the limits and haven't had any problems. 250 rwhp give or take, depending on the dyno.
#11
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#17
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18: if your vodka makes you blind, I dont want it. try some cirrus vodka.
and i spent a lot of time on my car to get it this way. I bought it new in 01 and have been molesting it ever since. http://gallery.y8s.com/miata
#20
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How reliable is a turbocharged Miata... haha. Well to be honest, your better off with the highly reliable Eaton MP45 or Eaton MP62 superchargers. The reliably is through the roof, the power is predictable, all in all more bang for the buck...
(Hehehe, like driving a Import to a Union meeting (Did that, done that, do it again), I shouldn't be discussing superchargers on Miataturbo.net, unless its taking a **** on one)
(Hehehe, like driving a Import to a Union meeting (Did that, done that, do it again), I shouldn't be discussing superchargers on Miataturbo.net, unless its taking a **** on one)