Oh fukn help me. It's the end. What is this sound my engine is making?
#1
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Oh fukn help me. It's the end. What is this sound my engine is making?
So my new motor is in and it idles.
But, it sounds like this:
or for shitty photobucket video go here
I've never heard a built motor before IRL so I don't know if it's supposed to sound like a ******* diesel. Opinions?
Here's the relevant parts list or at least the parts that could affect the sound:
Belfab rods
FM 9:1 wisecos
FM head
stock bearings
wiseco/fm supplied rings
stock cams
gt3071
tial wg
tial bov
aggh what the ******* hell.
But, it sounds like this:
or for shitty photobucket video go here
I've never heard a built motor before IRL so I don't know if it's supposed to sound like a ******* diesel. Opinions?
Here's the relevant parts list or at least the parts that could affect the sound:
Belfab rods
FM 9:1 wisecos
FM head
stock bearings
wiseco/fm supplied rings
stock cams
gt3071
tial wg
tial bov
aggh what the ******* hell.
Last edited by Faeflora; 03-31-2010 at 10:26 PM.
#5
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No, it's pretty much the same warmed up or cold. I think that was warm.
I don't know what the valve lash is. I will find out. As for cylinder clearances, I forget but will find out too. I am pretty sure it is whatever was reccommended by FM/wiseco.
more guru advices please!
I don't know what the valve lash is. I will find out. As for cylinder clearances, I forget but will find out too. I am pretty sure it is whatever was reccommended by FM/wiseco.
more guru advices please!
#10
Cpt. Slow
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Here's some advice: STOP REVING IT LIKE AN IDIOT AND TURN IT OFF!!1!
Seriously, stop running it what so ever. I don't care if it's your daily driver, you will not turn the engine on until you diagnosis, locate, and eliminate the sound, understand?
Did you build the engine? Did you check piston height before putting the head on? What's your timing look like? Solid lifters I'm guessing? Double check oil level, it'll require a lot more starting with a brand new engine, just like it's an extra 1/2 qt or so if you change your filter vs. leaving the old one on.
Seriously, stop running it what so ever. I don't care if it's your daily driver, you will not turn the engine on until you diagnosis, locate, and eliminate the sound, understand?
Did you build the engine? Did you check piston height before putting the head on? What's your timing look like? Solid lifters I'm guessing? Double check oil level, it'll require a lot more starting with a brand new engine, just like it's an extra 1/2 qt or so if you change your filter vs. leaving the old one on.
#11
Hard to tell from the vid but collapsed piston skirt from heat/abuse? Causes pistons to slap the wall, I had this happen on a previous car from sustained boosting.
I was thrown off by the revving, don't run the engine till fixed. True knock is loud (like knocking on a desk), this doesn't sound that loud.
I was thrown off by the revving, don't run the engine till fixed. True knock is loud (like knocking on a desk), this doesn't sound that loud.
#12
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Here's some advice: STOP REVING IT LIKE AN IDIOT AND TURN IT OFF!!1!
Seriously, stop running it what so ever. I don't care if it's your daily driver, you will not turn the engine on until you diagnosis, locate, and eliminate the sound, understand?
Did you build the engine? Did you check piston height before putting the head on? What's your timing look like? Solid lifters I'm guessing? Double check oil level, it'll require a lot more starting with a brand new engine, just like it's an extra 1/2 qt or so if you change your filter vs. leaving the old one on.
Seriously, stop running it what so ever. I don't care if it's your daily driver, you will not turn the engine on until you diagnosis, locate, and eliminate the sound, understand?
Did you build the engine? Did you check piston height before putting the head on? What's your timing look like? Solid lifters I'm guessing? Double check oil level, it'll require a lot more starting with a brand new engine, just like it's an extra 1/2 qt or so if you change your filter vs. leaving the old one on.
I am going to get it towed tomorrow back to the shop that built the motor to ask them to figure out what the problem is.
Quesiton though: how do i diagnose and eliminate the sound without turning the engine on? Was that a koan you posed to me?
The block and the head are stock height, neither were decked. I have no clue what my timing looks like. The noise has my brain befucked and i can't think ****. Oil level is ok.
#13
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Hard to tell from the vid but collapsed piston skirt from heat/abuse? Causes pistons to slap the wall, I had this happen on a previous car from sustained boosting.
Sounds too slow for valve train but I was thrown by the revving. True knock is loud (like knocking on a desk), this doesn't sound that loud.
Sounds too slow for valve train but I was thrown by the revving. True knock is loud (like knocking on a desk), this doesn't sound that loud.
this is a fresh motor, no boost experienced yet at all. This is it's first startup :(
this is not how i want to break the motor in :(
#19
If it's the first start, talk to the builder. I've never had an engine make sounds like that after a build.
#20
Cpt. Slow
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Oh touche, did the shop know of that little trick Mazda built into the head gaskets? If you flip it upside down it'll look perfectly normal aside from blocking the oil to the head.
I will allow you 15 seconds of run time to turn it on, take off the oil cap, check for oil, and shut it off. No more.
I will allow you 15 seconds of run time to turn it on, take off the oil cap, check for oil, and shut it off. No more.