Oh fukn help me. It's the end. What is this sound my engine is making? - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-01-2010, 12:00 PM   #41
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Without watching the video, I'm going to guess the valve shims need to be replaced with proper ones. Here's a thread that has the instructions on how to do it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35265/
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:56 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stranges12712 View Post
I may have your answer. I had the exact same sound when i built my motor. Was coming from the head to. Check your cam gear bolts, make sure they are tight. I thought mine were tight but they wern`t and the little pin on the cam shaft wore an oval groove in my cam gear so every time the gear was spinning it was clicking since it wasnt tight. Drove like that for a week, then finally pulled the motor, i was kind of pissed i had to pull the whole motor for a stupid cam gear bolt from being loose but it was worth it. SO check it out!

DING DING DING STRANGES127 WINS THE PRIze!!!!

It was the cam gear. It wasn't quite bolted down properly and was banging against the sheet metal. Fu YOU little nut, I fu you in the face with my wrench! HA HA HA IT LIVESSSS



Time for break-in!
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:59 PM   #43
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Holy **** that's badass.

Pretty much last suggestion, and an easy fix.

Good deal, just don't freak out next time.
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:51 PM   #44
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Congrats on finding the problem. How wide is the grin on your face?
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:52 PM   #45
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what are the chances of that! haha glad your car is fix and it was nothing major!
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:22 PM   #46
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Glad you found the problem and it was minor. Also good is you didn't tow the car back to the builder, raise hell and then they find out it was that simple. Saved some face...
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:35 PM   #47
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Well, the builder should have tq'd the ******* bolt properly. So I wouldn't defend **** for them.
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:40 PM   #48
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Make sure you break it in right. Lots of load *out of boost*, lots of vacuum, more and more RPM as you go. All the break-in is done in the first 50 miles of driving.

no synthetics for at least 500-1000 miles.
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Old 04-01-2010, 04:23 PM   #49
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I have nothing to contribute to this thread but I'm 98% sure that I saw your car last week at York Automotive in Mt Airy.
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:43 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by MicaCeli View Post
I have nothing to contribute to this thread but I'm 98% sure that I saw your car last week at York Automotive in Mt Airy.
Yes MicaCeli, that was me. FYI we're having a dyno day there next saturday. $50/car. If some people don't show (likely) we will have spots.
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:48 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Make sure you break it in right. Lots of load *out of boost*, lots of vacuum, more and more RPM as you go. All the break-in is done in the first 50 miles of driving.

no synthetics for at least 500-1000 miles.
That's the plan.

OK For you aftermarket ECU guys I have a fresh question:

I'm trying to calibrate base timing on my hydra. Idle is fairly smooth, it idles ok between 12:1 and 15:1. A little roughness but the RPMs are steady at 1000. The tables are stable on one cell for both fuel and spark.

BUT when I look at the hydra readout, the timing number is jouncing all over between 6 and 12 several times a second. If I hold a bit of throttle 1-2%, the timing readout is stable.

WTF is this new ****? I can set the base timing by reducing the timing for that 1-2% cell and flashing the light but that is a workaround. Any ideas why the numbers are sloppy at idle?
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:45 AM   #52
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If it's anything like MegaSquirt it's using timing numbers off a map, which may or may not be tuned well at idle. See if you've got 6s and 12s in those cells. Most of us run something closer to 17*.

That said, you should have to set the ECU to a standard static timing setting, so it holds it regardless of bouncing around cells at idle. I'm not sure what the procedure is with Hydra, but you HAVE to know exactly what advance number the ECU is throwing down, and adjust your CAS or trigger angle until the timing light matches this number.

When you hold it stable is the crank pulley notch even close to the numbers Hydra is giving you?

Even if so, I'd want a static base timing number instead of trying to match the light with dynamic info on a screen. That's about like watching your AFR and boost gauges at the same time while driving to fix a fuel table cell.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:52 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
That's the plan.

OK For you aftermarket ECU guys I have a fresh question:

I'm trying to calibrate base timing on my hydra. Idle is fairly smooth, it idles ok between 12:1 and 15:1. A little roughness but the RPMs are steady at 1000. The tables are stable on one cell for both fuel and spark.

BUT when I look at the hydra readout, the timing number is jouncing all over between 6 and 12 several times a second. If I hold a bit of throttle 1-2%, the timing readout is stable.

WTF is this new ****? I can set the base timing by reducing the timing for that 1-2% cell and flashing the light but that is a workaround. Any ideas why the numbers are sloppy at idle?
For reference on my 94 with MS I idle at about 13.5AFR. Anything above that it starts to get rough and the afr start to bounce around a lot.
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:32 AM   #54
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I installed a 323GTX PCV which makes a very loud hiss. Is this normal? I'm wondering if something is f'ing with my vacuum.
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:21 AM   #55
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Did you put it on backward or something? Did you buy it at like autozone because those are POS's. Get an oem PCV from a dealer.
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:22 AM   #56
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Wooo ******* right. I knew it had to be it was the exact same sound of my motor. Did you put your cams on or your builder? The first time i put mine on it happened. I gave it to my builder to fix it he put them on with some threadlocker havent had the problem since. Im very glad it fixed your problem. Have fun with boosting
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:36 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
Did you put it on backward or something? Did you buy it at like autozone because those are POS's. Get an oem PCV from a dealer.
No! Fu u tard I bought it from frikken um rosenthal mazda. It's a damn E301-13-890A


So this ****** shouldn't be hissing like mad?
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:53 AM   #58
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Whoa....You better back up a step before I rip off your head and throat **** you.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:00 PM   #59
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No no, I meant that with affection.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:21 PM   #60
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This is a brand new PCV valve, would it really be fd like that?
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