Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

I know most want MSpnp.

For noobs on momma's tit. I have already had it, and fully aware!

There are alot of hardcore guys on here that have already hit high numbers on Bandaids, and then switched to a better fuel management.

I'm bandaids and saving for a house. If I can't hit 200 with good mpg, I'll just run 1.8L injectors for what they are worth. This is just a dependable daily driver. Not a track car.

Anyway, to the point, I'm going to swap in injectors, 1.8L or 305cc, with a AFPR, msd.

1. How much hp will these 305cc injectors support. And can the afm be tuned enough for the injectors to not run way rich at idle

2. With the GT2554 on the FM II for the 1.6 or FM III for the 1.8L. and 3 inch exhaust. How much boost would it take to hit About 200hp, for each setup????

I need to know which spring to get for the external waste gate, if I go 1.8L. If I was to stay 1.6L I'll just turn the boost while eying the WBO2.

Thanks.

GT3man2001

Edit: me<reading.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Sicne you're on 1.6 electrics, a couple clicks off the MAF wheel and a turn or two on the idle mixture screw will have your idle fuel acceptable... even with 305's.

You're not gonna be able to get far without a new fuel pump. Walbro 190lphHP is the ticket. That pump will let you see 130+psi in the fuel rail, which is enough to run as much boost as the 2554 will put out with 305's. New soft fuel-lines are recommended, as well as a new fuel filter.

I assume BEGi 2025 AFPR? If so, the adjustability is key. The MSD box is nice that it works only while in boost, but it only has the capacity to pull 6* total. I think you're gonna need to keep your base timing in the 10-12* range, and pull a full 6* as quickly as it can... even on 93oct. Most guys running a Bipes find they can run upwards of 14*-16* base timing, and pull 8*-10* total, way better.

On a full bandaid setup like you describe, you're probably going to see 200whp at 14-15psi depending on how well you can tune fuel and if you're comfortable going all the way to redline. The 3" exhaust is your friend so you might see it at 13psi I highly suggest a fuel pressure gauge be installed to use as a tuning tool on the dyno.

The big problem is the factory fuel curve. With no 02 clamp, you'll get some lean tip-in, which starts your HP curve off bad. You need enough fuel in the midrange not to run lean there as soon as the tip-in leanness goes away. This means pretty high fuel pressure... around 100psi. The problem is that with that much pressure, at around 5500rpm, the factory fuel curve starts pouring the fuel in, added to the fact that your setup is being forced rich, it's almost impossible to stay lean enough on the top-end to generate really good power. You'll probably be seeing in the 10:1 topend, where 12:1 might get you another 10-15whp that an ECU can get you... in addition to better managing your timing.

For your wastegate, just get what it comes with. If you've got a choice, then a 7-8psi spring is pretty standard. You're gonna be using an MBC anyways to tune your boost target.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

I have a O2 clamp, Knocksence and a LC-1. And would be willing to get a bipes if needed. I don't want to run over 10-12psi.

So if running 10-12* base timming will work with the MSD that is fine.


One last question.

I know you can run 12psi in the 2560 all day and the motor is fine. And that is just about the same power as the 2554 can push out at 15psi...right????

But 15psi on the 2554 will still be too much internal pressure on the motor, isn't it. Or will it be fine.
If this was a 2560 I would only push 10 psi. I'm kinda just wanting a fun daily, with the simplicity of Bandaid tunning. I'm willing to push the envelope a ways. But I can sacrifice some power to not blow the motor.......... I may just push 10psi anyway, and keep some head room..


Know I have to make some Knock ears and hook up the knocksence.
Thanks again Sam.