Harbor Freight Win-or-Fail Thread
#143
Win. I paid $10 for this and have used it and have gotten hours of use out of it over the past few years.
Win. This does a great job of bending aluminium, particularly the thinner stuff. I have used it for large spans of thicker aluminium as well, and it works, but struggles.
Win, kind of. Some of the fluid leaked out. It still works, but unless I have lots of room to move the lever, it doesn't like to go up. There's probably a way to add hydraulic fluid, and if I get off my *** and figure that out, I could probably fix it.
The jack stands are a win.
The 1/2" drive extendy ratchet is a win.
The zip ties were a massive fail. All of them broke.
C-clamps are hit or miss, I guess. I bent one of them but the other two are doing fine.
Win. This does a great job of bending aluminium, particularly the thinner stuff. I have used it for large spans of thicker aluminium as well, and it works, but struggles.
Win, kind of. Some of the fluid leaked out. It still works, but unless I have lots of room to move the lever, it doesn't like to go up. There's probably a way to add hydraulic fluid, and if I get off my *** and figure that out, I could probably fix it.
The jack stands are a win.
The 1/2" drive extendy ratchet is a win.
The zip ties were a massive fail. All of them broke.
C-clamps are hit or miss, I guess. I bent one of them but the other two are doing fine.
#144
< $10 win
spring punch. can use this to make the indent on the bolt you are about to drill out per the easy out thread.
you will see this again in the locking track windows thread i will be creating when i finish mine
http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-...punch-621.html
jack pads. i use these on the 6t steel stands. i have this for my bf steel floor jack too, but i didn't see it on web site.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...and-95952.html
if yer in the parts yard and any hose, wire, battery cable, brake line, or zip tie gets in your way, these take care of it. more discrete than bolt cutters
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...ter-40507.html
if you really want to be prepared, spend the $3.50 and get these too:
http://www.harborfreight.com/ratchet...ter-39749.html
spring punch. can use this to make the indent on the bolt you are about to drill out per the easy out thread.
you will see this again in the locking track windows thread i will be creating when i finish mine
http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-...punch-621.html
jack pads. i use these on the 6t steel stands. i have this for my bf steel floor jack too, but i didn't see it on web site.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...and-95952.html
if yer in the parts yard and any hose, wire, battery cable, brake line, or zip tie gets in your way, these take care of it. more discrete than bolt cutters
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...ter-40507.html
if you really want to be prepared, spend the $3.50 and get these too:
http://www.harborfreight.com/ratchet...ter-39749.html
Last edited by jasonb; 04-20-2012 at 08:10 PM.
#145
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Spring punch: I've had 2 fail (broken spring, snapped dohickey inside), but the first was free (promo gift) and they replaced it for free. Second failure was also replaced, and this one seems to be okay. Tip is not that good, and had to be reground to center the point. Worth the buck-fifty you can usually get them for.
Cutters: Unhardened/ poorly hardened edges will dull easily on anything except wire in smaller diameters. Worth about 2 bucks max. My 30 year old linesman's pliers that I found on the side of the road are a million times better. Would not buy them again.
Cutters: Unhardened/ poorly hardened edges will dull easily on anything except wire in smaller diameters. Worth about 2 bucks max. My 30 year old linesman's pliers that I found on the side of the road are a million times better. Would not buy them again.
#146
true that on the cutters, they get torn up.
ok, lemme try < $10 again. put the c clamp on inboard side of your axle. use the large pry bar against it and the subframe, and pop your axles in.
6" clamp
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...amp-37850.html
pry bar set
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-69281.html
and this one. this has to be a gimme. they are usually $1.
ok, lemme try < $10 again. put the c clamp on inboard side of your axle. use the large pry bar against it and the subframe, and pop your axles in.
6" clamp
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...amp-37850.html
pry bar set
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-69281.html
and this one. this has to be a gimme. they are usually $1.
#147
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Never bought the pry bars, but I have one of the C-clamps. Lost the foot pad part over the years. Once I made a replacement, but lost that, too. Found the foot, and used RTV to stick it back on. I use it for brake jobs. Has held up pretty well considering I abuse the ---- out of it.
#152
Fail. I had one twist in half the first time I used it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-67925.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-67925.html
#153
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#154
WIN = 1/2" composite ratchet & Pittsburg 10-piece metric sockets. These got me through replacing my shocks no problem. And I still use them all the time. Very tough.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...het-66314.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-67916.html
FAIL = car ramp set w/built-in safety chock. Don't trust the chock! The chock is a crock. It broke during assembly.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ock-67722.html
WIN = steel ramp set...much better!
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-68365.html
FAIL = 3/8" close quarter drill. I bought this to help out with my roll bar installation, which it got through. However, it smelled like it was starting to burn up by the time I got done. This is because the tolerances on this drill are ridiculously loose. I've already broken two teeth with the supplied chuck key and when it drills you can noticeably see the drill bit wobble some.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...ill-92956.html
Ray
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...het-66314.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-67916.html
FAIL = car ramp set w/built-in safety chock. Don't trust the chock! The chock is a crock. It broke during assembly.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ock-67722.html
WIN = steel ramp set...much better!
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-68365.html
FAIL = 3/8" close quarter drill. I bought this to help out with my roll bar installation, which it got through. However, it smelled like it was starting to burn up by the time I got done. This is because the tolerances on this drill are ridiculously loose. I've already broken two teeth with the supplied chuck key and when it drills you can noticeably see the drill bit wobble some.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...ill-92956.html
Ray
#155
Fowler 6" Digital caliper .0005 accuracy
39.99 bucks
Fail - Battery dies even when you don't use it. I suspect it turns on randomly while in its case. There's no off button, it's just an on and turns off after 5 or something minutes.
At my old job we used RCBS Vernier micrometers 0-6" (they come per every inch 2-3 3-4...). We used bunch of others but stuck to Vernier. It was the best mics ever. All other brands either bend, or normally they get stuck (and no its not the adjustment screw). We've used westward, mitutoyo, and fowler (off the top of my head those are the others i can remember) We calibrated them every 4 months. RCBs we within the thousand, the rest always 4-5 thousands off and some more...
Sorry bud Sterretts were also good in the beginning but their tumblers suck as there's no way to adjust them. The only thing i like about them is the lock.
This is precision work i was doing so mics were a must. One thing to remember, NEVER drop them or they are done. Once it bends it becomes impossible to get to the 4th digit accurately.
The digital vs analog one... I don't know why one would debate, I'm guessing because if you ---- up with the analogue one, its your *** for reading it wrong, while if you ---- up on a digital one you can say boss the number said that. Personally for the shade tree mechanic that uses it once a month, i'd get the analogue one as there's no battery in it so it always works when you need it.
As far as the Micrometer vs Caliper goes. It's easier to measure a circle (ACCURATELY) with a micrometer.
39.99 bucks
Fail - Battery dies even when you don't use it. I suspect it turns on randomly while in its case. There's no off button, it's just an on and turns off after 5 or something minutes.
Sorry bud Sterretts were also good in the beginning but their tumblers suck as there's no way to adjust them. The only thing i like about them is the lock.
This is precision work i was doing so mics were a must. One thing to remember, NEVER drop them or they are done. Once it bends it becomes impossible to get to the 4th digit accurately.
The digital vs analog one... I don't know why one would debate, I'm guessing because if you ---- up with the analogue one, its your *** for reading it wrong, while if you ---- up on a digital one you can say boss the number said that. Personally for the shade tree mechanic that uses it once a month, i'd get the analogue one as there's no battery in it so it always works when you need it.
As far as the Micrometer vs Caliper goes. It's easier to measure a circle (ACCURATELY) with a micrometer.
Last edited by triple88a; 04-26-2012 at 04:42 AM.
#156
...I also bought a Harbor Freight knockoff of a Fluke digital multimeter (DMM); the HF DMM has also been great for years. The DMM is similar to this one, but looks more like a Fluke. http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-d...ter-37772.html
http://www.pawnplex.com/tools/dmsc683/DSC00009.JPG
http://www.pawnplex.com/tools/dmsc683/DSC00010.JPG
Of course this post will jack up all the bids on the auctions above.
#157
Just purchased a Solder iron from Radio shack. 20-50 Watts adjustable for i think 20 bucks. Would buy again.
Looks like this one but 20-50 instead (and cheaper). I'd say win, so far much better than the gun i was using.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...oldering+irons
Looks like this one but 20-50 instead (and cheaper). I'd say win, so far much better than the gun i was using.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...oldering+irons
#158
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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just placed an order from online! $7 fixed rate shipping!
3/8" x 1/4" Dual Drive Extendable Ratchet 98802 2 $25.98
100 Piece 8" Black Cable Ties 34635 1 $1.50
1/4" x 50 ft. Poly Rope 90760 1 $1.00
6" Magnetic Parts Holder 97825 1 $2.00
Safety Glasses, Clear Lens 99762 1 $1.00
12 Piece Cold Chisel and Punch Set 66440 1 $9.99
50 Piece 15" x 13" All Purpose Shop Towels 46163 1 $12.99
6 Ton Heavy Duty Jack Stands 38847 2 $89.98
4 Piece Fluid Line Clamp Set 65116 1 $9.99
4 Piece Heavy Duty Pry Bar Set 69281 1 $12.9
3/8" x 1/4" Dual Drive Extendable Ratchet 98802 2 $25.98
100 Piece 8" Black Cable Ties 34635 1 $1.50
1/4" x 50 ft. Poly Rope 90760 1 $1.00
6" Magnetic Parts Holder 97825 1 $2.00
Safety Glasses, Clear Lens 99762 1 $1.00
12 Piece Cold Chisel and Punch Set 66440 1 $9.99
50 Piece 15" x 13" All Purpose Shop Towels 46163 1 $12.99
6 Ton Heavy Duty Jack Stands 38847 2 $89.98
4 Piece Fluid Line Clamp Set 65116 1 $9.99
4 Piece Heavy Duty Pry Bar Set 69281 1 $12.9
#159
$70
Win
Expensive, however I got more use out it than I would have thought. It's basically a giant c-clamp for pressing anything into our out of anything. I pressed out rusted parts that wouldn't buldge. I swapped my diff bushings. Poly bushings. Wheel studs.
I didn't break it yet and did bushings on 2 cars already.
#160
Skimmed the thread again. Didn't see these.
WIN-> 3 piece 3 jaw puller set- had bad reviews online, but picked them up anyway. $18 and so far pulled every bushing out of my car but the diff with it. Diff is tomorrow.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-32184.html
WIN-> 3 piece 3 jaw puller set- had bad reviews online, but picked them up anyway. $18 and so far pulled every bushing out of my car but the diff with it. Diff is tomorrow.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-32184.html