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Old 10-08-2015, 11:35 PM   #23481
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Why not just make critical hardware require the periodic entry of a validation "key" to continue operating (avoid crippling). The period could be adjusted to suit the vulnerability.
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Old 10-09-2015, 12:54 AM   #23482
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Any sufficiently complex failsafe software system will fail, and it will tend to do so when it is carrying a nuclear weapon over the capitol city of an allied nation.

Being able to remote disable a device, by manual intervention, is a good idea. Designing a device to blow itself up when a certain set of predetermined criteria is met is almost certain to end badly.



I am amazed, quite frankly, that we haven't already been annihilated by mistake.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_Hand_(nuclear_war)
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Old 10-09-2015, 12:59 AM   #23483
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I listen to clips of/numbers stations late at night and it creeps me the **** out.

Maybe no real relation, but still kinda related.
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Old 10-09-2015, 04:38 AM   #23484
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I am amazed, quite frankly, that we haven't already been annihilated by mistake.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_Hand_(nuclear_war)
Did you know that North Carolina was almost nuked in the early 1960s when a B-52 carrying a pair of nukes crashed? Basically every arming device initiated itself in one of the bombs except for the "safe/arm" switch, and that one was known to fail frequently. We got really lucky.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1961_Goldsboro_B-52_crash

This is a really interesting book that talks about the controls on nuclear weapons. For much the 50s through 80s, the military was much more interested in making sure that bombs would go off when they wanted them to, rather than making sure that they WOULDN'T go off when they weren't supposed to.

Command and Control: Nuclear Weapons, the Damascus Accident, and the Illusion of Safety: Eric Schlosser: 9780143125785: Amazon.com: Books Command and Control: Nuclear Weapons, the Damascus Accident, and the Illusion of Safety: Eric Schlosser: 9780143125785: Amazon.com: Books

--Ian
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Old 10-09-2015, 09:44 AM   #23485
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Should I overnight a set of Xida's from Cali?
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Old 10-09-2015, 09:59 AM   #23486
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Did you know that North Carolina was almost nuked in the early 1960s when a B-52 carrying a pair of nukes crashed?
I vaguely recall reading about that one while perusing Broken Arrow incidents in general.

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Old 10-09-2015, 11:21 AM   #23487
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If you have a remote destruct then it sucks when the bad guys steal the remote destruct code.

--Ian
just ask Khan


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Old 10-09-2015, 12:00 PM   #23488
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Should I overnight a set of Xida's from Cali?
Overnight them to me, I can keep them dry for you out here in CA.
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Old 10-09-2015, 12:04 PM   #23489
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Overnight them to me, I can keep them dry for you out here in CA.
It is dry here now. High 70's and sunny for the next week.
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Old 10-09-2015, 12:44 PM   #23490
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I got woken up by the local police knocking on my door today...

Turns out they were here to tow my truck as it was parked for greater than the allowed 72 hours on the street without moving (to be honest, it's been in the same spot for much closer to 720 hours). I told them I was planning on moving it today and they kindly left (after possibly telling me some white lies*). If you've followed my posts in other threads, like some kind of stalker, you'd know that in the past few days I've been buying things and generally considering working on my truck again, so it's not the end of the world. I even bought a new battery for it last night.

*They initially told me some neighbor complained, then when I stepped outside to ask a question, they back tracked and told me a patrol car reported it. I believe it was the neighbor, as there is a truck across the street and down the way a bit that hasn't moved or been registered since we moved in here and it's "fine". They also then told me that they are not required to mark it and then wait 72 hours before towing, which I am now finding conflicting info on (doc saying they have to mark it, code that doesn't mention marking. Guessing the code wins here).


All of the above is just a preface for some options I now have.

1: Swap the battery and move the truck every 72 hours. Basically give in and play along.

2: Swap the battery and move the truck every 72 hours, but always park all of my cars in front of the neighbor who I'm 90% sure complained's house. The code only says the car has to be moved 0.2 miles, nothing about not parking in the same exact spot.

3. Swap the battery and move the truck every 72 hours, and complain to the police that they either need to mark my vehicle or change the city documents to indicate they don't have to.

4. Ask if I can pay more to my stingy but nice landlord to park my truck (and maybe a small trailer) in the gravel on the side of the house that they had previously said I couldn't.


I'm leaning towards some combination of 1 and 4, but the bitter grumpy part of me that was woke up and had to deal with the police wants to do 2 and 3. I just don't expect much would come of it other than grumpy neighbors.

Had to leave this somewhere as there's no need to stress out my girlfriend today and I needed to vent a little
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Old 10-09-2015, 12:50 PM   #23491
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I have dealt with some shitty neighbors and here is what I would do.

Start with 4. That will take care of your truck and any future project vehicles. Its bullshit that you can't park on that bit of gravel. Its not like its grass or anything.

Althought #2 sounds awesome, and I would be hard pressed not to do it, skip it. It will just make it harder. Then when you are on vacation for 5 days your neighbor will jump on the opportunity to get your car towed. So #1 over #2.

#3 definitely needs to happen. Your truck should be marked before being towed. They shouldn't just be able to tow it. Find the documents in writing at city hall or online. And take it to your local police station.

And let me say this. ******** will be ********. Even if you are an ******* back. Its just how they are wired. Do your best not to **** them off and they might be a little less assholish.
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Old 10-09-2015, 12:51 PM   #23492
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Its also bullshit that a patrol car reported it. That **** doesn't happen ever. And that truck down the street is just as ghetto looking as your pickup.
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Old 10-09-2015, 01:27 PM   #23493
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Gesso, I'll bring the dentside over and you can park it in front of his place. That'll teach them to miss the Comanche
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Old 10-09-2015, 02:14 PM   #23494
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Has anyone done air compressor pipe routing before? I've been doing some reading and found that metal pipe is preferable because it gets moisture out of the air. But I'm lost on a lot of things. Like water traps, etc.

I really just need one run of pipe to the center of my shop, where I will put a 50ft hose reel that should be able to reach everywhere.
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Old 10-09-2015, 03:31 PM   #23495
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Has anyone done air compressor pipe routing before? I've been doing some reading and found that metal pipe is preferable because it gets moisture out of the air. But I'm lost on a lot of things. Like water traps, etc.

I really just need one run of pipe to the center of my shop, where I will put a 50ft hose reel that should be able to reach everywhere.
Metal pipe is preferable because PVC explodes. Copper is what I usually see, theoretically galvanized would work but it's a PITA to make.

You want the horizontal runs to slope gently downwards as they go away from the compressor, so that water in the lines runs that way. Taps come vertically down off the main horizontal run, with a drain fitting at the bottom. The hose for the tool attaches to the side of the vertical run.

Lots of diagrams out there on the net if you google for it.

--Ian
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Old 10-09-2015, 03:33 PM   #23496
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Makes sense. I need to go up the wall, and then just to the middle of the garage. Then I guess I would have it drop down, have a drain and a tap that goes to the hose reel. Maybe a regulator and filter first.

Something about Black Iron being the best. Copper has soldered joints that can leak? Galvanized can chip off into the pipe. Then I should use pipe dope instead of teflon tape?
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Old 10-09-2015, 03:37 PM   #23497
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Water drops, I'd put one right as you come off the tank, then another in the center of your shop by the big old reel.

See how the air draw points are raised up off that main run, then tee'd off again. Water is heavier than air and holds momentum better, so use it to your advantage. If it's often cold where you are you can make a half-assed aftercooler/water trap to help the water condense by just running a few loops of iron or copper outside.

I really really dislike PVC, though it can work and is a lot cheaper. One day you'll be cleaning your water traps or moving a trash can and graze an elbow just right and it will explode right up in your face.

Copper would be best and esiest to work, but the most money for sure. It won't dirty your air like iron can.
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Old 10-09-2015, 03:42 PM   #23498
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My compressor is not going to be solid mounted, and is going to sit on gravel. Can I use a line of flexible hose to connect the compressor to the air lines?

Also should I be running 3/4" pipe everywhere? Or should I neck it down earlier. I assume for flow necking it down as late as possible is better.
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Old 10-09-2015, 03:46 PM   #23499
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Yeah, you could do that.

Running 3/4" past the probably comparably thin flex line would probably be a bit of a waste though. It's just you and maybe someone in the other stall right? I'd just go with the cheapest smallest stuff you can find. lowes/home depot sometimes skimp on smaller sized fittings, so 3/4 might be easier than 1/2...
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Old 10-09-2015, 04:12 PM   #23500
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Oops! At least in the UK.

Four more carmakers join diesel emissions row | Environment | The Guardian
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