How (and why) to Ramble On your domestic shorthair - Page 1307 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Insert BS here A place to discuss anything you want

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-08-2016, 03:37 PM   #26121
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,346
Total Cats: 52
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
How hard is installing a window AC unit. I am highly considering buying this AC unit and installing it in my garage. It being 100+ degrees out is really killing my wanting to work on cars. Also how long does it take to actually start cooling off the room its in.
Easy to install. I had better luck in a previous house with a ductless unit I installed in my garage. You have better choices of internal placement.

Not same but to illustrate: https://www.amazon.com/Amvent-Ductle.../dp/B0081HMXHC

You'd need to size for the space obviously.
bahurd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 03:44 PM   #26122
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 24,681
Total Cats: 1,576
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bahurd View Post
Easy to install. I had better luck in a previous house with a ductless unit I installed in my garage. You have better choices of internal placement.

Not same but to illustrate: https://www.amazon.com/Amvent-Ductle.../dp/B0081HMXHC
I was going to say the same thing- more efficient, and better choices for placement.

Note that while the unit linked to above comes pre-filled with refrigerant and uses quick-connect fittings, some come empty and require the use of a vacuum pump and then an R410 filling station after the lines are hooked up.
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 03:45 PM   #26123
SOMEOFIT
iTrader: (1)
 
Girz0r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,514
Total Cats: 219
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
How hard is installing a window AC unit.
Girz0r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 03:56 PM   #26124
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 12,215
Total Cats: 750
Default

The garage is about 750square feet which seems to be right between needing 14000btu and 18000btu. It has zero insulation though so I was figuring larger is probably better. The one at lowes just happens to be available today which is sort of why I was looking at it.
shuiend is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 04:06 PM   #26125
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,346
Total Cats: 52
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
The garage is about 750square feet which seems to be right between needing 14000btu and 18000btu. It has zero insulation though so I was figuring larger is probably better. The one at lowes just happens to be available today which is sort of why I was looking at it.
I'd love to be your electric provider...

One of the problems with the window unit is it'll be near the floor where the ductless wall unit can be placed higher so you'll get better circulation (IMHO) i.e. cold air is heavier than hot. The fan grids tend to be variable (not sure on all).

But, in general, they are higher priced.

Tough call. Good luck.
bahurd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 04:09 PM   #26126
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 12,215
Total Cats: 750
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bahurd View Post
I'd love to be your electric provider...

One of the problems with the window unit is it'll be near the floor where the ductless wall unit can be placed higher so you'll get better circulation (IMHO) i.e. cold air is heavier than hot. The fan grids tend to be variable (not sure on all).

But, in general, they are higher priced.

Tough call. Good luck.
The electric co-op I am member of has some of the cheapest power in the state. So that is something I am not to worried about. I honestly don't plan on leaving the AC on all the time or anything. Mostly turn it on an hour or so before I go out into the garage and then shut it off at night. I just want to remove some humidity and cool it off some, not looking to actually keep the garage "cold" continuously. I have been working with just fans, but with the heat index being 110F out right now, fans are not really cutting it when I am out welding.
shuiend is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 04:41 PM   #26127
SOMEOFIT
iTrader: (1)
 
Girz0r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,514
Total Cats: 219
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
Searched and nothing definite. Symptoms of high intake temps?

I only notice this mostly in the afternoon, near 100F temps outside driving home in semi stop and go traffic.

When I let off the gas pedal completely, usually AFR will shoot up to 22 for fuel cut and the car will decel like normal. Recently in the heat, when I let off there is no fuel cut. Runs rich (10-12 AFR), sputters.. RPMs slowly fall. If I release the clutch it still runs rich and the idle is at around 2k RPM.

IAT is right behind the radiator
So far, still looking for a solution...

A lot of examples I come across is with megasquirt, hot iat but running lean...

Just want to be sure before I start investigating on extending the wiring down towards the intercooler piping down below. Get it drilled/welded or whatever and take off the powder coat on the existing piping... Or use the IAT piece found on BEGi's site.
Girz0r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 04:56 PM   #26128
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
 
sixshooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 13,439
Total Cats: 1,016
Default

That window unit will improve your life. Do it. Low country has special requirements for managing Summer.
sixshooter is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 05:19 PM   #26129
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,346
Total Cats: 52
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
Make sure to study up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
That window unit will improve your life. Do it. Low country has special requirements for managing Summer.
True enough.
bahurd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 06:55 PM   #26130
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 12,215
Total Cats: 750
Default

I bought the biggest window unit that Lowes had. I should be hooking it up tonight or tomorrow once I get some one to help me. Now I am debating installing some insulation. Is it worth doing the sides and not the roof? I have zero desire to get into the rafters to attempt to put insulation up there.
shuiend is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 07:01 PM   #26131
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,256
Total Cats: 105
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
...

Is it worth doing the sides and not the roof? I have zero desire to get into the rafters to attempt to put insulation up there.
NO, that would be a waste of time if you aren't doing the roof. You could do the roof alone and get a decent return on the effort, but not the walls alone.

Also, if there is any possible way for you to include a radiant barrier under the roof, you will be absolutely amazed at the temp differential.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reach-Bar...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
good2go is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 07:04 PM   #26132
Hug Life
iTrader: (3)
 
Monk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Huntington, Indiana
Posts: 2,401
Total Cats: 356
Default

I use ductless minisplits because my "house" is a 140 year old church, and it was the easiest way to retrofit AC. I just installed a second one yesterday.
Do it, but don't use the one linked. You want to find something with a high SEER.
110 units are available now with SEER numbers above 20, which is ultra efficient.
13 is below the energy star threshold.
My electricity bill does not significantly change when running it 24/7 when using AC, but it increases a bit when using the heat pump.
Have 2 extra sets of hands when you install.
Find an AC guy that is willing to work on a unit he didn't install to vacuum out the refrigerant lines before you release the Freon.
It shouldn't cost you more than ~$40
Monk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2016, 08:51 PM   #26133
SOMEOFIT
iTrader: (1)
 
Girz0r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,514
Total Cats: 219
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
So far, still looking for a solution...

A lot of examples I come across is with megasquirt, hot iat but running lean...

Just want to be sure before I start investigating on extending the wiring down towards the intercooler piping down below. Get it drilled/welded or whatever and take off the powder coat on the existing piping... Or use the IAT piece found on BEGi's site.
I took note of my IAT with a scanner when I got to a parking garage after work. 183F

Bad... yes?

Only near 100F outside...

Coolant is rock solid at 200F~ 12:00 on gauge.
Girz0r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 04:00 AM   #26134
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Mobius's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,782
Total Cats: 205
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by good2go View Post
NO, that would be a waste of time if you aren't doing the roof. You could do the roof alone and get a decent return on the effort, but not the walls alone.

Also, if there is any possible way for you to include a radiant barrier under the roof, you will be absolutely amazed at the temp differential.
Reach Barrier 4 ft. x 250 ft. Silvertanium Radiant Barrier Insulation-3023 - The Home Depot
Tell me more, tell me more. Our upper floor ceilings are insulated in the attic but the attic gets hottt in the summer; there's no insulation on the actual roof. Would I just nail this onto my rafters to create a radiant barrier beneath the roof?

Edit: ooh. yess. I am excite!
Mobius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 08:31 AM   #26135
AFM Crusader
iTrader: (18)
 
olderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,275
Total Cats: 64
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobius View Post
Tell me more, tell me more. Our upper floor ceilings are insulated in the attic but the attic gets hottt in the summer; there's no insulation on the actual roof. Would I just nail this onto my rafters to create a radiant barrier beneath the roof?

Edit: ooh. yess. I am excite!
I would spend my time and money exhausting the area above the insulation. A good roof mounted exhaust fan and louvers at the base of the roof would do wonders.
olderguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 12:52 PM   #26136
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 8,876
Total Cats: 487
Default

So today i decided to check out that exhaust leak..

A weld in the exhaust broke in the......


Are you ready?



The BEGI DOWNPIPE.

There is a joint where the pipe going down meets with the 2nd pipe that goes under the car. Right before the bend there appears to be press fit welded joint and it cracked all the way around.
triple88a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 01:45 PM   #26137
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 12,215
Total Cats: 750
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
So today i decided to check out that exhaust leak..

A weld in the exhaust broke in the......


Are you ready?



The BEGI DOWNPIPE.

There is a joint where the pipe going down meets with the 2nd pipe that goes under the car. Right before the bend there appears to be press fit welded joint and it cracked all the way around.
How old is the downpipe? I mean I wouldn't exactly be mad at BEGI. Sometimes welds fail, there is not a vendor out there for miatas that I have not seen have zero issues ever with cracking welds. I have seen plenty of cracked turbo parts frm FM, Artech, Begi, Absurdflow over the years. It sucks when it happens, but you just take it to an exhaust shop and have them fix it them move on with your life. No miata turbo parts out there are sold at a price point to have perfect welds 100% of the time. You get enough out there with enough miles driven on them and eventually a few will have issues.
shuiend is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 02:33 PM   #26138
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,256
Total Cats: 105
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobius View Post
Tell me more, tell me more. Our upper floor ceilings are insulated in the attic but the attic gets hottt in the summer; there's no insulation on the actual roof. Would I just nail this onto my rafters to create a radiant barrier beneath the roof?

Edit: ooh. yess. I am excite!
Yes, exactly (well, staple it anyway), and it will do the same thing in winter too, preventing the heat from inside the house from escaping out through the roof. For years I saw the little demo kits on the counter at the lumber yard and thought this stuff was just snake oil, until they started requiring it in new construction here. Now, you can actually buy your roof sheathing ply with a foil skin already attached on one side, so there is no extra effort to accomplish the barrier than just sheathing the roof. Even in the summers here, when it is 90*+ outside, you can go into the attic and survive just fine, whereas before, you'd literally be on borrowed time up there. It will cut down on heating costs in winter too. If you have any reasonable access to the underside of your roof, I wouldn't hesitate to do it; creating a radiant barrier is the bomb.

https://www.radiantguard.com/pages/h...adiant-barrier

Myths & Misconceptions | RIMA International








Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
I would spend my time and money exhausting the area above the insulation. A good roof mounted exhaust fan and louvers at the base of the roof would do wonders.
Even better to do both, but if I had to choose, I'd still do the barrier first. Keeping the heat from building up in the first place negates the whole need for exhausting it.

.
good2go is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 02:52 PM   #26139
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago
Posts: 24,681
Total Cats: 1,576
Default

How is compare?

Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2016, 02:55 PM   #26140
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 8,876
Total Cats: 487
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
How old is the downpipe? I mean I wouldn't exactly be mad at BEGI. Sometimes welds fail, there is not a vendor out there for miatas that I have not seen have zero issues ever with cracking welds. I have seen plenty of cracked turbo parts frm FM, Artech, Begi, Absurdflow over the years. It sucks when it happens, but you just take it to an exhaust shop and have them fix it them move on with your life. No miata turbo parts out there are sold at a price point to have perfect welds 100% of the time. You get enough out there with enough miles driven on them and eventually a few will have issues.
5 years now. And yes i would expect begis downpipe to last longer than the primo special mexican exhaust shop exhaust seeing that the entire exhaust is half the price of begis downpipe.
triple88a is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Uconn Car Show 240_to_miata Local Meets, Events and Tech Days 1 01-23-2016 10:17 PM
Uconn Car Show Sat, April 9th 240_to_miata Local Meets, Events and Tech Days 7 04-11-2011 11:00 AM
Uconn Car Club Spring 2010 Show 240_to_miata Local Meets, Events and Tech Days 92 04-12-2010 06:20 PM
anual uconn car show/meet 240_to_miata Local Meets, Events and Tech Days 0 02-19-2008 10:03 PM


Tags
brain <3 me, brainy <3s hollywood, cancerous testicles, cuban caveman, furry barnacle, get fragged faeflora, joe p for prez, lyrical joe perez, not hit block, peter falk

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:43 AM.