Anybody have a link for good info on how to get started building these? I've flown store bought ones, but I'd like to build my own.
My top 3 are probably
Flitetest has an entire multirotor section where people are sharing DIY builds. Excellent walkthrough videos for lots of stuff from the Flitetest crew. There is also a fellow on YouTube who goes by " hallstudio " who has come great tricopter build videos.
Most of us have been using Hobby King and probably have Buddy Codes for things if you are interested in buying from them, just be prepared to wait 14+ days if you purchase things from the "international warehouse" (China)
But, I'll change a bunch of the details (Arducopter or MultiWii Pro controller so I can play with automation/ GPS waypoint control instead of KK2, build my own frame using Flitetest anycopter motor mounts/ landing gear, etc).
I was also planning on heeding the recomendation of the guy in the link above and buying a Turnigy 9X radio. You guys have any other recommendation? I also don't have any batteries or a charger, and have no idea what I want to use for them either.
I'm a big fan of my 9x, but like seemingly all other electronics, you really want to put aftermarket firmware on it. I'm running openTx and it does everything I need it to, but the user manual sucks because only 25% of it has been translated from french, lol. I'm not using the flysky module though, as I don't have a receiver (use it to fly my v911s though) I bought mine used and it came with Corona stuff, which I'm not crazy about, but it does seem to work well, and I totally recommend 8ch if you can, its nice to have a hardware ARM switch, and an output for swinging a servo for the camera, stuff like that.
For batteries, every last gram isn't a concern, and we're using battery straps so just about anything will fit really... I've been buying on a) 3s b) will this push at least 60 amps and C) much per mah. I bought one of the fake imax b6 chargers from HK china for $14 and it charges fine as far as I can tell. You also want to get one of those cheap yellow cell checkers and a on board alarm, they're cheap ( like $2) and will keep you from blowing up some lipos.
It took me 3 days, but I finally got the yaw working right... I have broken probably 30 zip ties on the landing gear trying to figure it out. Its pretty amazing how tough these big bastards are. That said, they can be really dangerous, and I think thats part of the adrenalin rush you get flying them. I would like to reiterate that if you want to get into these things, buy a toy micro quad to get some practice, these things get out of whack pretty easy... You really don't want to whack yourself or someone else with a 2lb object flying 50mph with the power near that of a lawn mower and exposed blades.
My setup is:
Turnigy D3536/9 910KV motors, (rated 370watts, running at around 200)
F30a ESCs flashed with simon K's fw
HK-922MG Digital Metal Gear Servo 1.8kg/ 12g/ 0.07sec (possibly underkill, but working well so far, the arms are a little flexy really.. I'm NOT doing direct drive as that seems stupid to me, using a ball linkage setup I bought locally)
Slow Fly Electric Prop 11x4.7SF <-- pretty happy with these guys
MultiWii PRO Flight Controller w/MTK GPS Module, $65 and multiwii isn't bad.
I figure at some point I may bother to put the megapirates stuff on it, but I'm fairly happy as is.
The batteries are on the bottom, the shiny thing on top is a un-etched copper pcb used as a ground plane for the GPS. She's 4 and her sister is too... They're what got me into flying helicopters, Its pretty boring to just sit outside to watch them while they play so I fly stuff around the park which is right next to the house. I do wish it was a bit bigger tho, I want to get into 'planks' w/ those flite test kits.
They split very easily. Don't use them unless you confident in your skills.
I'm not, that's why I rebuild them in wood.
I drilled thought the CF 25mm from end so they fold like RcExplorer's. That;s where the split started from. If you use 2 plates to "squeeze" them like the tail boom, they might never break. At 45cm, they have almost no flex.
Originally Posted by EO2K
I hate this hobby lol
I bought parts to build a micro tri and a micro quad, plus I bought my Dad one of the HobbyKing ARF Micro Quad w/KK2.0 kits for Fathers Day. I need someone else to fly with lol
I'm with Ian on the 9x, I'm digging mine so far. Don't be afraid to get a Mode1 if Mode2 is out of stock, it's super easy to convert it.
When I get home this afternoon I'll drop some buddy code love all up in here.
Yellow: I'm digging the CF booms, where did those come from?
9X is awesome sauce, I guess I forgot to ever post this (take from my thread on RCGroups.
I ended up putting a DE9 connector on the side of the transmitter case, using 6 pins. I may use the other 3 for something else eventually.
Its pretty cool that they put so many open pads on these boards to allow for people to make modifications like this. Gotta love open-source.
On a related note, my ebay knockoff USBasp works flawlessly. Ive seen on the board a few people claiming that they have weird firmware on them and are difficult or impossible to use.
I used normal USBasp drivers with no issues whatsoever.
aaaaaan it works!
So yeah, I got the new setup up in the air over the weekend
and Ive been trying to figure out a good vibration free camera mount, but I still ahve lots of jello
Well ****, a day aftwr i get it flying well it drops out of the sky from about 40ft. Thud, crack... didnt have time for a thorough post mortem. Amazingly props are fine, had to be a power issue. Hopefully an easy fix, first autocross is this weekend. Likely from sloppy wiring, but its all guessing at this point. too many kids to feed and bathe right now.
You dont like flashing, you must be a terrorist!!!
Extras, faster communication, more secure com, some even offer logging. Its been a while since i talked to my buddy that did this but on his he had a macro. On button press it would go through a warmup process which he used when starting up his engine to idle at like 10% or something like that for few mins.
The idea was to get it further from the prop wash, not to dampen vibration. I was hoping the moongel would do that.
Im actually about to make some longer, wood arms. The wood shouldnt transmit vibration as much, and because the props will be further out, hopefully they wont pound the camera with propwash as much. From there I think as long as I use moongel and make sure the props are well balanced, I think it should get some decent video.
If all that doesnt work, I might have to try something with wire and such.