Car's dead
#1
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Car's dead
Yesterday while road tuning my car it started running rough and did not want to move. We pulled the car over and parked it to find out the 2nd cylinder was not sparking and the 3rd cylinder was sparking continuously, with the engine not running and the ignition on. 1st and 4th cylinders were sparking correctly. Figuring it was the coil I replaced it but the car has yet to run. With the old coil pack it would at least start but idle rough with only two cylinders running. With the new coil it refuses to start and has the random pop out the exhaust every second or so.
I also get no tach signal in the gauge pod but I do get it in MS.
Any ideas will be appreciated. If I don't get this running by the end of the week I'm selling the damn thing and starting over. I'm tired of fixing problem after problem on it.
I also get no tach signal in the gauge pod but I do get it in MS.
Any ideas will be appreciated. If I don't get this running by the end of the week I'm selling the damn thing and starting over. I'm tired of fixing problem after problem on it.
#4
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The corrupt firmware isn't such a bad idea. It did start right after burning a few cells in the VE table. When this happened I found out it inverted the spark output which I believe fried the coil.
Can't I remove a fuse to re-flash the firmware or do I have to disconnect the injectors and coils?
Can't I remove a fuse to re-flash the firmware or do I have to disconnect the injectors and coils?
#9
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Ok, I'm sitting here in the car but I can't get it to run the flash. Is there anyway to force it into boot mode without having to rip out my carpet.
Normally I just run minicom, wipe and upload the new firmware in the terminal, because I'm on Linux.
Normally I just run minicom, wipe and upload the new firmware in the terminal, because I'm on Linux.
#10
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Sometimes it won't do **** without bridging the boot jumper. I've had it happen to me a few times on the side of the highway. Luckily I had a phillips screwdriver and paper clip in the car. Oh, and 94 puts it right behind the seat.
#11
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Well its cold as **** right now and my laptop is the only thing keeping me warm.
I guess I'll try it in the morning when I have some light.
And Zabac, are there any more turbo Miatas around Charlotte? If so I think we all should meet up.
I guess I'll try it in the morning when I have some light.
And Zabac, are there any more turbo Miatas around Charlotte? If so I think we all should meet up.
#13
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FYI- on the 1.6 cars it is necessary only to unplug the igniter. This, by definition, disconnects the coil primaries. On the 1.8 cars, the coils themselves must be unplugged; only the low-voltage side.
This business about plug #2 not sparking while #3 is sparking continuously is very fishy. Electrically, these two are in series with one another under normal operation. In order for one to fire and the other not, there's gotta be a physical problem on the high-voltage side, most likely a short to ground somewhere in the vicinity of the non-sparking plug.
It also means that if you remove one plug of a pair (1/4 or 2/3), then neither will fire unless you've grounded the threaded portion of both.
This business about plug #2 not sparking while #3 is sparking continuously is very fishy. Electrically, these two are in series with one another under normal operation. In order for one to fire and the other not, there's gotta be a physical problem on the high-voltage side, most likely a short to ground somewhere in the vicinity of the non-sparking plug.
It also means that if you remove one plug of a pair (1/4 or 2/3), then neither will fire unless you've grounded the threaded portion of both.
#14
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FYI- on the 1.6 cars it is necessary only to unplug the igniter. This, by definition, disconnects the coil primaries. On the 1.8 cars, the coils themselves must be unplugged; only the low-voltage side.
This business about plug #2 not sparking while #3 is sparking continuously is very fishy. Electrically, these two are in series with one another under normal operation. In order for one to fire and the other not, there's gotta be a physical problem on the high-voltage side, most likely a short to ground somewhere in the vicinity of the non-sparking plug.
It also means that if you remove one plug of a pair (1/4 or 2/3), then neither will fire unless you've grounded the threaded portion of both.
This business about plug #2 not sparking while #3 is sparking continuously is very fishy. Electrically, these two are in series with one another under normal operation. In order for one to fire and the other not, there's gotta be a physical problem on the high-voltage side, most likely a short to ground somewhere in the vicinity of the non-sparking plug.
It also means that if you remove one plug of a pair (1/4 or 2/3), then neither will fire unless you've grounded the threaded portion of both.
Thanks for the information on what has to be unplugged. All of this started after burning settings to MS. Will inverting the spark outputs for awhile fry a coil, or should I look for something else causing this?
#16
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All joints heated to 650*and the board was cleaned throughly before closing it up. I will check it all again when I reflash it tomorrow. Speaking of things grounding. I thought I saw a puff of smoke come out from the steering column when working on it earlier today. I didn't think anything of it, just passed it off as exhaust seeing as I didn't smell any electrical burn. I haven't done any wiring under the steering column except fuel pump and wiring for my WB. I guess it is all up for debate atm.
#18
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Me and some friends were planning to go to the dyno in Concord, BRE Motorsports, here in the next few months when we get our cars running. My friend in south Greensboro has his car(240sx) here and I'm getting MS setup in it in my free time.