Originally Posted by Joe Perez
Setup as in CPU, code version, options built on the MS, injectors, whatever else you feel like bragging about given that this is your thread, etc.
(BTW, I still laugh every time I see your sig.)
Oh right on!
MSnS-E V2.2 029q2
PWM boost control
Shift Light (Check engine light on dash)
Planning on building in water injection control along with maybe table switching, but not sure yet. EGT logging soon to come also, still need to buy knocksenseMS.
Using Miata CAS for trigger, MPS2222A spark outputs, huge expansion board built into the top cover, stock 1.8 injectors, stock escort 190k mile shortblock, rebuilt miata head, stock manifold, cat, 2" catback with resonator and 2.25" 40 series flowmaster (had laying around from my turbo truck, so I used it when my factory system fell off..).
Waiting to buy 440cc injectors, walbro 255 pump, materials for DIY fuel rail, chinacooler and chinapipes, tax return for a wirefeed welder, replace the T2 flange on my manifold with a T3 flange, add wastegate flange.
Have a Garrett T3 .63 turbine w/out wastegate, Turbonetics T04B-S3 compressor
Turbonetics DeltaGate MKII
Buying some 3" mandrel exhaust bends to fab up a downpipe, then going to pay my favorite exhaust shop to build a 3" complete system from downpipe to tail pipe, no cat, muffler, or resonator which won't last.. I'll likely settle with a resonator depending on how farking loud open exhaust is.
I really wasn't going to show much of it off cause right now, with all the problems I've had with COP its a HUGE HUGE HUGE mess.. but here are a couple shots of my work:
Found a factory Toyota PCM in the junk yard that had the exact same case as a miata.. Took it to teh counter and asked how much they wanted for it and was told $25.00. Decided it wasn't worth that much to me to simply destroy the damn thing, so I said nevermind was only interested in the case. Guy handed me a screwdriver and said how about 5 for the case? Sold.
Removed the board, came home and took it totally apart. Covers off, brackets off, then broke it in half attempting to saw it with a jigsaw. The connector wasn't the same as the one we ordered from electronic parts, so I had to open the case opening up a bit. Did a simple repair, dabbed some epoxy on the mounting tabs for the connector and made a case to hold my boomslang!
Left the lid off for some misc testing, still have to put the lid back on and bolt MS down.
Supposed to be 40 degrees tomorrow so I'm planning on removing the MAF and installing a small aluminum pipe in its place with the GM open element IAT sensor. Have all the settings perfect in eztherm, but still says IAT with cold engine is 50 degrees when its 18 degrees ambient temp out.. I'll fix its wagon!
Also on the list is to get my timing set, gonna borrow a friends timing light to make sure thats all setup right. Honestly I just set it by ear like I used to with a carb SBC. Started slowly tinkering with it until it had a good idle and good throttle response, thats what I did for the short drive I went on. Infact, even without positive base timing and IAT reading WAY off, I did 2 data logs and ran them through megalogviewer to adjust the fuel map, it runs even better now than with the base DIY table I was using! Before constant throttle the car would get jerky a bit, and wouldn't en richen at higher loads in upper gears. Did a 3/4 throttle second gear pull watching my AFR around 12.3:1 for most of the RPM range I took it on.
Overall I'm finally starting to get happy with the whole project and totally convinced my toyota ignition coils HAVE to be bad. After I hooked the factory coils up, literally in half a second of cranking the engine was running. Using Scotts recent cranking PWs he posted up, and I think some of his Warm up enrichments too. If I unplug the MAF so IAT goes -40 it runs in warmup idle just fine, then when the engine is warmed up and out of warmup enrich I Plug the MAF back in and it idles like its supposed to. Throttle response off idle seems pretty good too and I've only begun.
Biggest problem I have right now, cleaning up wiring, and trying to figure out why my dash tach still doesn't show the engine is running.
I built this:
I tested the output with a Scope on a bench.. It gives a +12 volt square wave which changes frequency with stimulated RPM... Still no dash tach!