JDM short block, hitch, engine parts, etc
#1
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JDM short block, hitch, engine parts, etc
Will ship anything except short block for actual shipping costs.
JDM BP6D 10.5:1 short block, low miles -- $700
- authentic overnight parts from Japan
- I decided to go with a TSE short block for the 8k rpm lyfe
- ~200psi compression in all cylinders when complete engine was tested
- can inspect/test complete engine if you give me a heads up before I remove everything
Complete NA8 head -- $150
- came from engine with 175-180psi compression in all cylinders
FM throttle body adapter plate -- $30
NB throttle body with IAC, TPS -- $50
BMW vTPS with plug-and-play wiring adapter for 1.6 car -- $50
BMW vTPS (only - 2 available) -- $30
Flyin Miata NA receiver hitch + ball mount + wiring adapter (like new) -- $180
ARP head studs -- $70 shipped
- were removed from an engine I used as a core, look perfectly fine
JDM BP6D 10.5:1 short block, low miles -- $700
- authentic overnight parts from Japan
- I decided to go with a TSE short block for the 8k rpm lyfe
- ~200psi compression in all cylinders when complete engine was tested
- can inspect/test complete engine if you give me a heads up before I remove everything
Complete NA8 head -- $150
- came from engine with 175-180psi compression in all cylinders
FM throttle body adapter plate -- $30
NB throttle body with IAC, TPS -- $50
BMW vTPS with plug-and-play wiring adapter for 1.6 car -- $50
BMW vTPS (only - 2 available) -- $30
Flyin Miata NA receiver hitch + ball mount + wiring adapter (like new) -- $180
ARP head studs -- $70 shipped
- were removed from an engine I used as a core, look perfectly fine
#4
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No, they're torque til the head yields according to ARP's specs
But in all seriousness, people use lower than the preload spec on the ARP instructions because they crack heads (use OEM washers, too), and even that high spec isn't TTY.
I'd consider using them myself, but I bought new ones when I bought parts for my build. One of my donor motors (nice running N/A NA8) had these.
But in all seriousness, people use lower than the preload spec on the ARP instructions because they crack heads (use OEM washers, too), and even that high spec isn't TTY.
I'd consider using them myself, but I bought new ones when I bought parts for my build. One of my donor motors (nice running N/A NA8) had these.
#6
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Set em aside and I'll pick em up at MRLS with the flare tool. need to read up a little too to make sure.
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09-14-2016 08:57 AM