Harv

iTrader: (4)

I've got to double check that the tap I have is 1/2 NPT and then find the right fitting.

http://ww2.mne.ksu.edu/classes/ME300...20tapdrill.htm

So, drill with a 45/64 bit for 1/2" NPT according to that site.


I have no issues with the IC piping end of things as Stripes provides an outlet for the thing to connect up to there. I just need to get into the intake tube.

It really does sound like recirculating is the way to go. Luckily my Miata is a third car so I'm not beating on it daily.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

45/64 is gonna be a PITA to find. I think 11/16 or something is close enough for what you're doing. Just use the JB when installing. That's what most people here use when tapping their oil pan.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Well, Corky replied to my query about the bypass valve and indicated that the bypass valve by design releases at a vacuum much closer to atmospheric pressure than the vent to atmosphere style. So, it is probably not a good idea to use this particular valve vented to atmosphere. I'll continue with my plan to route it back into the piping after the filter.

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

Hey harv,

This is how I routed my BOV when I was running a recirculated system:

http://www.mx5projects.com/imageScal...v-DSC01064.jpg
http://www.mx5projects.com/imageScal...m-DSC01063.jpg

Your bypass valve outlet diameter is probably .75-1". Your best bet is to find an adaptor at a store like advanced auto and drill/tap your greddy elbow. JB-weld should work fine in this situation. Since welding is out, I suggest running heater hose from your BOV to the new adaptor on your intake elbow. These parts should only set you back 10-15 bucks

I hope this helps.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Stripes for the info. Now I just have to find the time to do all this as I'm going away this weekend. I think for now at my current boost levels I'm okay without the bypass, but it will be nice to get it on there anyway.