Greddy Wastegate adjust - Opinion?
#1
Greddy Wastegate adjust - Opinion?
i've read how to do it, but i dont understand the tech terms you use such as rod, or wastegate can. I know, bad english, but i'm not native english person, so...
here's what I did.
1-Red line - Loosed the nut.
2-Yellow line - Hold that thicker part with a plier so it wouldnt move.
3-Blue line - turned that thinner part with another plier a couple turns and it lowered the boost as i wanted.
4-tightened the nut back against the thicker part.
As I turned the thinner part, i could ear a spring clicking.
Boost now holds steady at 6psi as intended.
Drove around yesterday and today doing some hard pulls to see if everything was good. seems fine.
Did I do it right or not? Because from what I understand here https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...gate+adjust%22 I did it exactly the other way around.
"You're not supposed to turn the shaft inside the wastegate. That tends to break them. "
here's what I did.
1-Red line - Loosed the nut.
2-Yellow line - Hold that thicker part with a plier so it wouldnt move.
3-Blue line - turned that thinner part with another plier a couple turns and it lowered the boost as i wanted.
4-tightened the nut back against the thicker part.
As I turned the thinner part, i could ear a spring clicking.
Boost now holds steady at 6psi as intended.
Drove around yesterday and today doing some hard pulls to see if everything was good. seems fine.
Did I do it right or not? Because from what I understand here https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...gate+adjust%22 I did it exactly the other way around.
"You're not supposed to turn the shaft inside the wastegate. That tends to break them. "
#2
Right, don't turn the rod (shaft) inside the wastegate can. What you want to create is a shorter rod by loosening the jam nut (the only nut on the shaft), turning the rod end to the right (clockwise) on the rod a few turns, and then re-tightening the jam nut.
A pair of vise-grips works well to hold the rod still.
A pair of vise-grips works well to hold the rod still.
#3
Right, don't turn the rod (shaft) inside the wastegate can. What you want to create is a shorter rod by loosening the jam nut (the only nut on the shaft), turning the rod end to the right (clockwise) on the rod a few turns, and then re-tightening the jam nut.
A pair of vise-grips works well to hold the rod still.
A pair of vise-grips works well to hold the rod still.
assuming rod is the blue line, i rotated with anti-clock wise, to lower the boost.
when you say " don't turn the rod (shaft) inside the wastegate can." i dont get it. The thinner part (left of the nut when lookign at the pic) goes in a hole inside the wastegate itself. the shaft was inside the hole as i turned it
and it went in a little bit making that spring noise. at this point i adjusted the nut again and that was it.
#4
Hey, if it worked, and still works, then where's the problem?
when I adjusted mine, I loosened the (red) nut off, took out the split pin holding the whole thing onto the wastegate, and turned the end (yellow) section a few turns to effectively "shorten" the wastegate rod. Then put split pin back in & tightened the nut back up.
I don't recommend turning the thin shaft part (blue).
when I adjusted mine, I loosened the (red) nut off, took out the split pin holding the whole thing onto the wastegate, and turned the end (yellow) section a few turns to effectively "shorten" the wastegate rod. Then put split pin back in & tightened the nut back up.
I don't recommend turning the thin shaft part (blue).
#5
Ah, so that's how you take it off. got it! thx Jim.
and it works yeah, but i may have to do it again, and from what i read, i was lucky i didnt brake it... if you remove the stop pin you can take the arm off the wastegate and do it outside the turbo!
jeez, took me all this to understand this thing!
and it works yeah, but i may have to do it again, and from what i read, i was lucky i didnt brake it... if you remove the stop pin you can take the arm off the wastegate and do it outside the turbo!
jeez, took me all this to understand this thing!
#10
Jim - the Greddy wg is notoriously crappy. Replacing it with another wg helps greatly and is an all-around improvement. Here's a pic of the one I used:
DSCN0542.jpg
Here's the thread, Joe Perez and myself both explain our setups in it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=actuator
Last edited by kotomile; 06-29-2008 at 08:33 PM.
#12
i just did the same thing today... i turned the rod inside the can. does the rod come off when u break it? By the way, i only seem to have 2 psi of boost. What is the rpm that reaches full boost with a stock greddy downpipe? Where do i connect the vacumm hose for the boost gauge?
how much psi were you getting before you adjust it?
how many turns you did to the rod?
i had to give it 2 full turns to drop from 7 to 6. with the greddy dp, i was seeing (depending on the gear obviously) 4 psi near 3800rpms, for example in 5th gear. and my vacuum line comes off the throtlebody.
#16
does anyone have a good pic of what is meant to be at the end of the rod? I just got my greddy kit back from begi and the bit that attaches the rod to the hotside was missing.
The rod is also tilted to one side in the wastegate without that bolt or clip or whatever was there - could that have damaged the wastegate?
The rod is also tilted to one side in the wastegate without that bolt or clip or whatever was there - could that have damaged the wastegate?
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