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Old 12-28-2016, 03:39 PM   #161
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Yeah I saw that part. I'm tempted to say it doesn't count.
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:40 PM   #162
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Well it works for lots of other people (myself included) and keeps intakes dry.

Its not the best crank case ventilation ever but its easy and works. Especially at stock motor power.
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Old 12-28-2016, 04:06 PM   #163
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I believe it. Just an idea. I think doward recently had blow by filling the intake on track recently? Not a turbo though and not really apples to apples. I don't know if the turbo is leaking or if it's blow by going backwards all through the tubing but the oil has to be coming from somewhere. Unless he bought the intercooler used full of oil.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:16 PM   #164
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Completely different issue. Doward was filling his PVC chamber due to high G load. Which i doubt george was hitting on the track with street tires.
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:38 AM   #165
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Completely different issue. Doward was filling his PVC chamber due to high G load. Which i doubt george was hitting on the track with street tires.
I pulled 1.3g coming down t9 at leguna.
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:04 AM   #166
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Also, I took the breather off and its routed back to the intake manifold for a vacuum source. So...
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:07 AM   #167
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Is it full
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:45 PM   #168
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I don't know if it's related to your issue or not, only trying to be helpful. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like the valve cover is the only 'crankcase vent' on the Miata engine?

One way to do it would be to study how they did it on the MSM (factory turbo). For a turbo car it's good to get rid of anything going from valve cover or crankcase to the intake manifold. More/larger diameter tubing going to a catch can, with upward slope on the hoses, will help prevent collecting oil. Baffles, material e.g. stainless steel wool, and/or larger volume will help. Filter on top for vent to atmosphere, or you can run the top line to the exhaust for a vacuum (not too sure about that one). You can also run the top line back to the intake pre-turbo, or even try to use check valves to get some intake manifold vacuum action when not in boost, but it gets complicated that way and I'm not sure if there's really anything to gain. Some of this won't technically pass emissions obviously.

There is a catch can thread on here. This one looks good but I don't think you need to be able to weld aluminum to make something work: The definitive "How do I catch can?" thread.
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:49 PM   #169
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There are lots of good threads. No need to fill this one up.

MSM factory setup was not that great.

I think he ran for a while without a catch can, I don't think we can assume anything about the oil until he has cleaned it, and run it again with the catch can.
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:50 PM   #170
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/\ What he said. If you don't have a firm grasp on this topic, go read up about it instead of posting vague and useless ideas/advice.
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Old 12-31-2016, 08:30 PM   #171
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Is it full
no
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Old 12-31-2016, 08:57 PM   #172
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I got the new roll bar installed. I love the way it looks. My only gripe is that it is a pain in the *** to open and close the soft top without the glass window hitting the diagonals.




As you can see. I also got a new seat! Its a Sparco Evo that I got from a local dealer for a great price. I can't wait for my next track day! I think I can shave about 3 seconds from my PB at Laguna with all of these mods.


Its mounted on a PCI adjustable seat rail. This was the hardest part of the install for me. It just didnt fit well at all. I knew it required some tranny tunnel adjusting but not this much. I had to break out the sledge and push the tranny tunnel in about 3" or so. Not fun. If I were to do it over again I would have gotten the garage star mount.

Apparently this is the first time they have heard about this being an issue. So I don't know what happened. But the seat base and the seat belt tab didnt fit for ****. So I'm not happy about that.

My next mods are a Trackspeed 16row oil cooler and a 6pt harness. Im just waiting for Trackspeed to re-stock so I can go pick one up. Im still deciding on a harnesss. Ive been looking at the G-Force 7501 in black. But I'm just not sure yet. If anyone has suggestions on a harness under $200 let me know.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:17 PM   #173
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Its mounted on a PCI adjustable seat rail. This was the hardest part of the install for me. It just didnt fit well at all. I knew it required some tranny tunnel adjusting but not this much. I had to break out the sledge and push the tranny tunnel in about 3" or so. Not fun. If I were to do it over again I would have gotten the garage star mount.
Just FYI, moving the tunnel with a sledge is standard procedure for getting a race seat into a Miata. I have a 12lb sledge that made short work of the mods required to get the PCI bracket to sit flush. ~30 seconds of hammering and it dropped right in. Doing it with a 5lb or smaller sledge makes it a much more tedious task.
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Old 01-01-2017, 05:38 PM   #174
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Just FYI, moving the tunnel with a sledge is standard procedure for getting a race seat into a Miata. I have a 12lb sledge that made short work of the mods required to get the PCI bracket to sit flush. ~30 seconds of hammering and it dropped right in. Doing it with a 5lb or smaller sledge makes it a much more tedious task.
Well, in the instructions it said, "Using a small hammer lightly hammer the transmission tunnel until the seat base sits flush." So I did as it said and it didn't work that well. Thats when I moved to the 5lb sledge. the instructions should have said something more along the lines of, "Using a 5lb sledge or heavier, hit the transmission tunnel with moderate force until the seat base sits flush."

Do you have an ETA on the oil cooler btw?
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Old 01-03-2017, 11:01 PM   #175
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Here is a hint of whats in the near future
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:43 PM   #176
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This morning was cold.


A box came in the mail


I bought popcorn packing because popcorn is life


Sike...



I picked up the SuperMiata Hybrid motor mount kit form 949 Racing. The stock motor mounts just aren't cutting it. The motor shifts a lot under load and its making shifting a little sketch when in the high rpm range. So these should do away with most of the engine movement.
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Old 01-07-2017, 01:16 AM   #177
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Nice. I have the hybrid setup, I think you will like it.
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Old 01-07-2017, 01:46 AM   #178
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Nice. I have the hybrid setup, I think you will like it.
Good to hear. Any tips for install?
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Old 01-07-2017, 02:55 AM   #179
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I have a question for you guys in regard to 5pt vs 6pt harnesses. Ive heard both arguments. A local safety equipment dealer said that a 5pt that is properly adjusted and positioned is just as good as a 6pt comfort wise. He told me that he has only sold 6pt harnesses to formula cars. He also said that the "sub belt" isn't actually to prevent submarining, but to keep the shoulder and lap belts secure.*

All the internet searching I have done has basically said that a 6pt will be more comfortable and safer. So I'm torn. Any input is greatly appreciated. Also, if you have any recommendations for belts under $200 that would be great too.
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Old 01-07-2017, 03:24 AM   #180
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Originally Posted by MiataMan00 View Post
I have a question for you guys in regard to 5pt vs 6pt harnesses. Ive heard both arguments. A local safety equipment dealer said that a 5pt that is properly adjusted and positioned is just as good as a 6pt comfort wise. He told me that he has only sold 6pt harnesses to formula cars. He also said that the "sub belt" isn't actually to prevent submarining, but to keep the shoulder and lap belts secure.*

All the internet searching I have done has basically said that a 6pt will be more comfortable and safer. So I'm torn. Any input is greatly appreciated. Also, if you have any recommendations for belts under $200 that would be great too.
"Keeping the shoulder and lap belts secure" is part of preventing submarining. When you tighten the shoulder belts, it tends to pull the lap belt upwards, thus increasing the space below the lap belt and allowing you to slide underneath it in a crash. The anti-sub belt prevents it from riding up, thus preventing the submarining.

I had 5-point belts in my Locost, have 6-points in the Miata, and the number of anti-sub belts didn't make much difference in the comfort level (although it's worth noting that I never drove the Locost very far). I don't really think it matters all that much here, the prices aren't substantially different.

As far as belt recommendations, I would go with an FIA-rated belt. I have Schroth in my car (recommended by Tony @ TC Design, who installed them), but I suspect they cost more than $200.

--Ian
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