TTE Build - Help me pick tires
#1
TTE Build - Help me pick tires
I'm brand new to Time Trials and built a '97 TTE points based car and could use some advice on picking tires. My first event is next weekend.
Engine = 6pts
+1 intake
+5 Racing beat header
Suspension = 7pts
+3 dampers
+2 springs
+2 rollbars
13 points total before tires.
Here are the two tires I'm considering:
205 Toyo RR is +7 and -7 for ( -30mm size ) = 0pts
205 Hoosier R7 is +10 and -7 for ( -30mm size ) = 3pts
I just mounted a set of 225 NT01 which are +6 and -1 for ( -10mm size ) = 5pts which might be good for practice but not fast enough.
Decision factors:
1.) Contingency
At local events I'm only seeing three drivers so contingency doesn't matter, there won't be any.
2.) Cost
The Hoosiers are $961 a set.
The Toyo RRs are $700 a set.
3.) Ideal wheel size
The 205 Hoosiers could run on on my existing 9" wheels. I'm not so sure about the Toyo RRs I might need to get another set of 8" wheels.
4.) Life
I don't have experience with either tire. But my searching shows the RR will last longer and performance lasts through ~10 heat cycles. Since I'm new to TT I think a longer lasting tire would be better for me. Also since there's little chance for me to win any tires keeping my running cost low starting out seems like a better approach.
5.) Points
My car only made 114WHP (corrected). I'm located in Denver, CO. IMHO both tracks favor power, especially High Plains Raceway. With the Toyo RRs I could get 3 points back for more power or aero. I don't know what though. The top TTE car is a BMW.
Engine = 6pts
+1 intake
+5 Racing beat header
Suspension = 7pts
+3 dampers
+2 springs
+2 rollbars
13 points total before tires.
Here are the two tires I'm considering:
205 Toyo RR is +7 and -7 for ( -30mm size ) = 0pts
205 Hoosier R7 is +10 and -7 for ( -30mm size ) = 3pts
I just mounted a set of 225 NT01 which are +6 and -1 for ( -10mm size ) = 5pts which might be good for practice but not fast enough.
Decision factors:
1.) Contingency
At local events I'm only seeing three drivers so contingency doesn't matter, there won't be any.
2.) Cost
The Hoosiers are $961 a set.
The Toyo RRs are $700 a set.
3.) Ideal wheel size
The 205 Hoosiers could run on on my existing 9" wheels. I'm not so sure about the Toyo RRs I might need to get another set of 8" wheels.
4.) Life
I don't have experience with either tire. But my searching shows the RR will last longer and performance lasts through ~10 heat cycles. Since I'm new to TT I think a longer lasting tire would be better for me. Also since there's little chance for me to win any tires keeping my running cost low starting out seems like a better approach.
5.) Points
My car only made 114WHP (corrected). I'm located in Denver, CO. IMHO both tracks favor power, especially High Plains Raceway. With the Toyo RRs I could get 3 points back for more power or aero. I don't know what though. The top TTE car is a BMW.
Last edited by chrisn; 09-14-2015 at 01:00 AM.
#3
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The R7 will be the more competitive tire, but if you want to make the car faster within the rules, you need to add a lot more power. Competitive NAs in PTE should have at least ~135whp, and points-built NBs will be at 143-144whp. If it's your first event, RRs will last longer and let you get a feel for how things work before deciding which direction to go with the car.
#4
You don't have to take points for header AND exhaust. You only take the +5 for header and then the rest of the exhaust/cat mods are included for free. Use the other 3 points for an ECU so that you can pick up some power like Andrew said.
22) Modification, porting, or replacem
ent of the BMT exhaust manifold or header(s) (includes
any/all other exhaust and catalytic converter modifications) +5
A dyno reclass is a bit of a hassle but will likely be faster.
22) Modification, porting, or replacem
ent of the BMT exhaust manifold or header(s) (includes
any/all other exhaust and catalytic converter modifications) +5
A dyno reclass is a bit of a hassle but will likely be faster.
#5
I have the same setup as you, different exhaust brand, but all else the same, with LSD 16 pts.
I'm running 205 RRs on 15x9 6ULs for TTE.
I can get 20 to 25 sessions out of a set of RR's before relegating them to practice tires. Then they last until I flat spot them.
When I researched them, they seemed the most economical, even though the Hooser contingency appears to be better, they don't last near as long. I've gotten a few sets of Toyo Bucks, and it helps out.
I'm running 205 RRs on 15x9 6ULs for TTE.
I can get 20 to 25 sessions out of a set of RR's before relegating them to practice tires. Then they last until I flat spot them.
When I researched them, they seemed the most economical, even though the Hooser contingency appears to be better, they don't last near as long. I've gotten a few sets of Toyo Bucks, and it helps out.
#6
You don't have to take points for header AND exhaust. You only take the +5 for header and then the rest of the exhaust/cat mods are included for free. Use the other 3 points for an ECU so that you can pick up some power like Andrew said.
22) Modification, porting, or replacem
ent of the BMT exhaust manifold or header(s) (includes
any/all other exhaust and catalytic converter modifications) +5
A dyno reclass is a bit of a hassle but will likely be faster.
22) Modification, porting, or replacem
ent of the BMT exhaust manifold or header(s) (includes
any/all other exhaust and catalytic converter modifications) +5
A dyno reclass is a bit of a hassle but will likely be faster.
I don't have to scramble now. I can run my 225 NT01s for this weekend and all I have to do is ballast the car up so I don't take points there.
I'll definitely get an ECU. Not sure what I'll do long term, a dyno re-class is an option I'm considering.
I'll probably start w/ the 205 Toyo RR.
#10
If there's three people and you can win, run Maxxis. If there's 5 people and you can win, run Hoosier. If there's 5 people and you can only get 2nd or 3rd, still run Maxxis.
Read the contingency programs from them and you will see this is the way to maximize the amount of free tires you are getting.
Read the contingency programs from them and you will see this is the way to maximize the amount of free tires you are getting.
#12
I thought hoosier was the only 205 than ran wide enough to make sense on a 9?
EDIT: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-9-rims-81317/
EDIT: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-9-rims-81317/
#14
I thought hoosier was the only 205 than ran wide enough to make sense on a 9?
EDIT: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-9-rims-81317/
EDIT: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-9-rims-81317/
#17
My 2 cents:
If you are talking a HP track then HP will drop more lap time per point than tires. But, here is what i can tell you about tires.
You would be hard pressed in TT and even in PT to find a front running car not running on either hoosiers or BFGs. It's not as bad as it used to be when the autocross tires didnt bump you up a whole class but it still holds true.
Your question between those two tires comes down to budget. The hoosiers will make your car faster for as much as 10 HCs than the Toyo but fall off after that. The Toyos will make consistant lap times FAR longer than the hoosiers. The toyo RR just like the older toyos just get's faster and faster at most tracks. The fastest lap will be right before they cord. It depends a little bit on the surface/track but ive found it holds true for most tracks with lighter cars.
So you get a lot more "fast" sessions out of the Toyos and they are cheaper. But on the same car (same power etc) the hoosiers will always be faster outright.
If were "new to TT" and just trying to get lots of regional seat time and expect at least to have a reasonably competitive setup i'd run the Toyos.
If you are talking a HP track then HP will drop more lap time per point than tires. But, here is what i can tell you about tires.
You would be hard pressed in TT and even in PT to find a front running car not running on either hoosiers or BFGs. It's not as bad as it used to be when the autocross tires didnt bump you up a whole class but it still holds true.
Your question between those two tires comes down to budget. The hoosiers will make your car faster for as much as 10 HCs than the Toyo but fall off after that. The Toyos will make consistant lap times FAR longer than the hoosiers. The toyo RR just like the older toyos just get's faster and faster at most tracks. The fastest lap will be right before they cord. It depends a little bit on the surface/track but ive found it holds true for most tracks with lighter cars.
So you get a lot more "fast" sessions out of the Toyos and they are cheaper. But on the same car (same power etc) the hoosiers will always be faster outright.
If were "new to TT" and just trying to get lots of regional seat time and expect at least to have a reasonably competitive setup i'd run the Toyos.