Battery Preferences
#22
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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Optima Yellow top D51R fits perfectly. just a little taller than stock is all. I don't think there is a more reliable miata battery. It will handle deep cycles, even started my car after leving the parking lights on for 8 hours at work once. It is not a light weight option though.
Bob
Bob
I got the D35 which is lower, wider, and 620 CCA compared to the D51R's 450 CCA. All at a svelte 35 lbs!
The D35 also has the reversed posts of the D51R.
It does fit into the battery area but I forget if I had to modify the tray slightly. I think it's a little wider than the top bracket can handle so I removed one of the "ears" but it's solidy mounted.
#23
the optima yellow is HEAVY but it will crank your car until your arm is too sore to keep the key twisted any longer.
I've got a small deep cycle that will crank the car a surprisngly long amount of time - it starts the miata just fine but would not start the 2.6L straight six in my other car.
it's made by XS Power, I got it from a performance shop. It doesn't have any CCA rating but it seems to work fine on 4cyl cars.
I've got a small deep cycle that will crank the car a surprisngly long amount of time - it starts the miata just fine but would not start the 2.6L straight six in my other car.
it's made by XS Power, I got it from a performance shop. It doesn't have any CCA rating but it seems to work fine on 4cyl cars.
#24
The D51R is too tall for the NB.
I got the D35 which is lower, wider, and 620 CCA compared to the D51R's 450 CCA. All at a svelte 35 lbs!
The D35 also has the reversed posts of the D51R.
It does fit into the battery area but I forget if I had to modify the tray slightly. I think it's a little wider than the top bracket can handle so I removed one of the "ears" but it's solidy mounted.
I got the D35 which is lower, wider, and 620 CCA compared to the D51R's 450 CCA. All at a svelte 35 lbs!
The D35 also has the reversed posts of the D51R.
It does fit into the battery area but I forget if I had to modify the tray slightly. I think it's a little wider than the top bracket can handle so I removed one of the "ears" but it's solidy mounted.
Bob
#25
the optima yellow is HEAVY but it will crank your car until your arm is too sore to keep the key twisted any longer.
I've got a small deep cycle that will crank the car a surprisngly long amount of time - it starts the miata just fine but would not start the 2.6L straight six in my other car.
it's made by XS Power, I got it from a performance shop. It doesn't have any CCA rating but it seems to work fine on 4cyl cars.
I've got a small deep cycle that will crank the car a surprisngly long amount of time - it starts the miata just fine but would not start the 2.6L straight six in my other car.
it's made by XS Power, I got it from a performance shop. It doesn't have any CCA rating but it seems to work fine on 4cyl cars.
#26
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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And the yellow top. I can let the car sit for a couple weeks in ice cold weather and come back and start it right up in 30F weather.
I could probably also drive it around in 3rd gear if I was so inclined.
#27
I've tried the red tops and the duralast gold with magic warranty (buy one, get a new one every 12 months when it dies)
And the yellow top. I can let the car sit for a couple weeks in ice cold weather and come back and start it right up in 30F weather.
I could probably also drive it around in 3rd gear if I was so inclined.
And the yellow top. I can let the car sit for a couple weeks in ice cold weather and come back and start it right up in 30F weather.
I could probably also drive it around in 3rd gear if I was so inclined.
Bob
#29
I just put a new battery in the street car a few months ago. It's got lots of electrical add-ons and I wanted a strong battery for it.
I bought an Odyssey PC925L and a pair of automotive terminals for it.
The PC925L is nearly the same size as the OEM battery if you put it on its side. I used the OEM battery hold-down hardware with any modification. With the automotive terminals the original battery wires work perfectly.
Best price I found at the time was at AutoPartsDealer.com.
Specs on the battery. The "L" has reversed terminals.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925series.htm
I bought an Odyssey PC925L and a pair of automotive terminals for it.
The PC925L is nearly the same size as the OEM battery if you put it on its side. I used the OEM battery hold-down hardware with any modification. With the automotive terminals the original battery wires work perfectly.
Best price I found at the time was at AutoPartsDealer.com.
Specs on the battery. The "L" has reversed terminals.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925series.htm
#31
One thing I learned about batteries and racing, is that I will have a heavy duty and 'heavy' battery for any tuning, or pit duties, and then I would use a battery that was used specificaly for getting the job done on the track.
Drag racing is particularly hard on batteries. Electric water pumps, hot iginitions, gigantic fuel pumps and often times no alternator, will eat batteries like an 8 year old with a bag of M&Ms.
Drag racing is particularly hard on batteries. Electric water pumps, hot iginitions, gigantic fuel pumps and often times no alternator, will eat batteries like an 8 year old with a bag of M&Ms.
#32
Cpt. Slow
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I guess Prospero and I have the only two good red tops out there. I've drained mine with the radio over a couple months while rebuilding the engine (took two months to drain it). I jump it enough to start the engine, disconnect the cables and I'm off, no special treatment. I've jumped plenty of cars, both with the engine on and off. I've struggled with starting it due to tunes and it never fails to live past the point where I fix the tune.
#33
Boost Pope
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Bought a Westco-branded Deka in '05 for the red car. It lasted about 3 years before it wasn't able to start the car reliably in cold (40°F) weather.
Replaced it with a red-top model 35 Optima in mid '08. Doesn't fit in the plastic tray, needed some trimming of the base with a hacksaw, but I think it fits pretty well all things considered:
At first, it was awesome. Seems like it started to degrade after about a year and a half. Recently, I tried starting the red car after it had sat idle for about three months, and there wasn't even enough voltage to turn on the ECU, much less run the starter.
Meanwhile, the piece-o-**** generic flooded battery in the blue car, which is several years old, still starts it like a champ.
Replaced it with a red-top model 35 Optima in mid '08. Doesn't fit in the plastic tray, needed some trimming of the base with a hacksaw, but I think it fits pretty well all things considered:
At first, it was awesome. Seems like it started to degrade after about a year and a half. Recently, I tried starting the red car after it had sat idle for about three months, and there wasn't even enough voltage to turn on the ECU, much less run the starter.
Meanwhile, the piece-o-**** generic flooded battery in the blue car, which is several years old, still starts it like a champ.
#39
I had one of those in the back of my CRX, worked well.
I know I'm going to get some flak for asking this, but has anyone relocated a Miata battery (other than the MiataBusa)? Seems like you'd want that big lump of lead as low and centered as reasonable. Under the passenger seat maybe? Methinks you could pull it off with a PC680 laid on its side.
Of course this would be pointless in a track car, being that you're using batteries < 5 lbs anyway.
I know I'm going to get some flak for asking this, but has anyone relocated a Miata battery (other than the MiataBusa)? Seems like you'd want that big lump of lead as low and centered as reasonable. Under the passenger seat maybe? Methinks you could pull it off with a PC680 laid on its side.
Of course this would be pointless in a track car, being that you're using batteries < 5 lbs anyway.