custom gauge set up
05-27-2010, 02:35 PM
#41
My **** also seems to lean out with time on the track (assuming heat soak, could be dying fuel pump). I would have had no idea this was happening if I didn't have a wideband gauge. The more I think about it, the more i'm pretty sure that is where my detonation damge came from on my pistons.
Another time my IAT sensor plug came loose and when that happens all sorts of **** goes wrong with your fueling. I noticed something was wrong when i noticed my WB02 gauge readings.
A boost gauge isn't as important since MS has boost cut but is really nice to have.
Oil pressure has definitely saved me. I really wish I had oil temp too and that will probably be my next gauge.
Aaron, I dont think your argument about factory boosted cars is quite valid. You're comparing apples to oranges, especially when you consider they have well calibrated knock sensors.
Edit: one more thing is that i've found having closed loop enabled helps a lot with fuel mileage. Also, if you're changing altitude which happens pretty often for me, you NEED closed loop enabled or **** WILL break. 4-5000 feet seems to make my AFRs about 1 full point leaner. No way I would have known that without my wideband gauge.
Another time my IAT sensor plug came loose and when that happens all sorts of **** goes wrong with your fueling. I noticed something was wrong when i noticed my WB02 gauge readings.
A boost gauge isn't as important since MS has boost cut but is really nice to have.
Oil pressure has definitely saved me. I really wish I had oil temp too and that will probably be my next gauge.
Aaron, I dont think your argument about factory boosted cars is quite valid. You're comparing apples to oranges, especially when you consider they have well calibrated knock sensors.
Edit: one more thing is that i've found having closed loop enabled helps a lot with fuel mileage. Also, if you're changing altitude which happens pretty often for me, you NEED closed loop enabled or **** WILL break. 4-5000 feet seems to make my AFRs about 1 full point leaner. No way I would have known that without my wideband gauge.
Reply
0
0
05-27-2010, 03:02 PM
#43
An interesting case for wideband gauges:
Due to where I have my LC-1 in the cockpit, the wires run near the shifter. One time after pulling a bunch of **** apart on my car, one of the crimps came loose. When I was driving, the gauge would start reading very lean under certain conditions, most notably when I was in third, and 5th gear. Pushing the shift lever up would sever my wideband connection to the megasquirt but not the gauge. Looking at datalogs, the wideband input would drop to 7.4:1 afr every time I shifted into 5th, so the car would pull fuel when I was cruising.
I would have been cruising at 18-19:1 for quite a while if I didn't have a guage to alert me to the problem. Also, I use much better crimpers now
.
Due to where I have my LC-1 in the cockpit, the wires run near the shifter. One time after pulling a bunch of **** apart on my car, one of the crimps came loose. When I was driving, the gauge would start reading very lean under certain conditions, most notably when I was in third, and 5th gear. Pushing the shift lever up would sever my wideband connection to the megasquirt but not the gauge. Looking at datalogs, the wideband input would drop to 7.4:1 afr every time I shifted into 5th, so the car would pull fuel when I was cruising.
I would have been cruising at 18-19:1 for quite a while if I didn't have a guage to alert me to the problem. Also, I use much better crimpers now
.
Reply
0
0
05-27-2010, 03:18 PM
#44
An interesting case for wideband gauges:
Due to where I have my LC-1 in the cockpit, the wires run near the shifter. One time after pulling a bunch of **** apart on my car, one of the crimps came loose. When I was driving, the gauge would start reading very lean under certain conditions, most notably when I was in third, and 5th gear. Pushing the shift lever up would sever my wideband connection to the megasquirt but not the gauge. Looking at datalogs, the wideband input would drop to 7.4:1 afr every time I shifted into 5th, so the car would pull fuel when I was cruising.
I would have been cruising at 18-19:1 for quite a while if I didn't have a guage to alert me to the problem. Also, I use much better crimpers now.
Due to where I have my LC-1 in the cockpit, the wires run near the shifter. One time after pulling a bunch of **** apart on my car, one of the crimps came loose. When I was driving, the gauge would start reading very lean under certain conditions, most notably when I was in third, and 5th gear. Pushing the shift lever up would sever my wideband connection to the megasquirt but not the gauge. Looking at datalogs, the wideband input would drop to 7.4:1 afr every time I shifted into 5th, so the car would pull fuel when I was cruising.
I would have been cruising at 18-19:1 for quite a while if I didn't have a guage to alert me to the problem. Also, I use much better crimpers now
.Another point i'd like to bring up for Aaron is that you shouldn't forget that you tuned your setup with a leak between the manifold and turbine flange. This leak isn't just hurting your spool by letting exhaust out, air is getting in and that ruins wideband readings. I've been battling exhaust leaks a lot this past 6 months and having a wideband gauge has helped me correct them because even a small leak shows a big difference on the gauge.
Reply
0
0
05-28-2010, 12:01 AM
#45
Elite Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,642
Total Cats: 36
Widebands are useless from day to day and only good for logging or if you're actually watching it. When was the last time you were going full tilt around a track and literally WATCHING your WB02? Last time I checked I don't even look at boost because I'm too busy driving.
IMO if you have a compitent tuner tune your car there should be no reason to have a wideband. OEM turbocharged cars dont have them so why should I?
IMO if you have a compitent tuner tune your car there should be no reason to have a wideband. OEM turbocharged cars dont have them so why should I?
About once per shift personally. I sweep the boost guage, the WB02, then the tach, shift, and repeat in 2nd-4th when drag racing.
OEM cars also run crappy intercoolers, IHI turbos that fail at stock power levels, time-bomb diffs, ECUS that cant really do jack to richen the mix below 4K, etc. That was just off the top of my head. But I do see your point there to an extent. The engineers for OEMs do usually have a great handle on making a car last on the street at stock power levels. Beyond that some extra info is very good though.
Reply
0
0
05-28-2010, 12:14 AM
#47
Another point i'd like to bring up for Aaron is that you shouldn't forget that you tuned your setup with a leak between the manifold and turbine flange. This leak isn't just hurting your spool by letting exhaust out, air is getting in and that ruins wideband readings. I've been battling exhaust leaks a lot this past 6 months and having a wideband gauge has helped me correct them because even a small leak shows a big difference on the gauge.
Reply
0
0
05-28-2010, 12:59 PM
#55
I'm going to get my block bored out to my new pistons. Going to run the cat power rods Jeff has. What else do I need other than main studs? I can always leave it with you and you can order the bearings you will need and just let me know when it's done. I'm thinking of going with the boundary oil pump gears as well.
Reply
0
0
05-28-2010, 01:07 PM
#56
I'm going to get my block bored out to my new pistons. Going to run the cat power rods Jeff has. What else do I need other than main studs? I can always leave it with you and you can order the bearings you will need and just let me know when it's done. I'm thinking of going with the boundary oil pump gears as well.
I'll just need your:
Pistons
Rings
Rods
Crank
Main Studs
OPGs and an oil pump if you decide to go that route. You can probably handle the OPGs yourself though if you wanted.
I can figure out the bearings and order oversized if necessary. If you're not getting any crank work done then it probably wont be though. I didn't have to for mine.
I love engine building. Probably my favorite thing to do.
Reply
0
0
05-28-2010, 01:07 PM
#57
I'm going to get my block bored out to my new pistons. Going to run the cat power rods Jeff has. What else do I need other than main studs? I can always leave it with you and you can order the bearings you will need and just let me know when it's done. I'm thinking of going with the boundary oil pump gears as well.
Give a lot of thought to main studs. I've never heard of anyone overpowering stock bolts, and once you go with studs, you really need to align bore the caps.
Reply
0
0
05-28-2010, 01:14 PM
#59
It seems to be a 50/50 split. I agree with you that it doesn't necessarily make sense 100%, but if it is absolutely overkill, and 50% of engine builders say that a bearing failure could end up being the result, those aren't good enough odds for me.
If I had unlimited cash flow, I'd do it anyway since I've never seen definitive results, just opinions.
Reply
0
0
05-28-2010, 01:17 PM
#60
To be honest, I've never used them personally for this very reason. I was going to on my last DSM, but I was talked out of it by my machine shop since I had already bought bearings and whatnot.
It seems to be a 50/50 split. I agree with you that it doesn't necessarily make sense 100%, but if it is absolutely overkill, and 50% of engine builders say that a bearing failure could end up being the result, those aren't good enough odds for me.
If I had unlimited cash flow, I'd do it anyway since I've never seen definitive results, just opinions.
It seems to be a 50/50 split. I agree with you that it doesn't necessarily make sense 100%, but if it is absolutely overkill, and 50% of engine builders say that a bearing failure could end up being the result, those aren't good enough odds for me.
If I had unlimited cash flow, I'd do it anyway since I've never seen definitive results, just opinions.
Reply
0
0
