scottyd

ScrappyJ - If you have the money do it correct. Once.

I've been doing my wagon in stages and it blows. Way too much effort, time and money have been wasted because of it.

So:
Build up your motor
Start with Xidas (do the "Clubsports" and upgrade later if you don't quite have the cash)
ABSURDflow Manifold with V-band
6-speed tranny

Those are minimum. Really.

dstn2bdoa

iTrader: (18)

Someone should make this thread a sticky, and change the title to "What is the Best Way to Build a Track Car?" or something along those lines.

I'm subscribed.

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

might have to add "super" or "ultimate" to the title. because a great track car to someone like my buddy's dad would not involve any of the parts mentioned in this thread. like savington said, some guy that plans to track his car 2 times a year would not benefit from this thread at all. some guy that plans to run TxMC next year...... then this thread is all win.

Scrappy Jack

iTrader: (2)

Edited for specificity.

A plan is beginning to formulate.


The one hole in the strategery is my lack of a prenuptial agreement combined with my wife's complete disdain for the Miata.

orion4096

iTrader: (22)

I don't have much to add that everyone else hasn't already covered:
- Absurdflow or your own manifold/downpipe if you have the skills like Bob.
- Dedicated track car. That doesn't mean you can't drive it on the street, but you need a second, reliable car. I had a second car, but it was a turbo garage queen which I never drove. That doesn't count.
- I have never built or blown a motor so I don't have the experience to comment on it.
- Fully agree with Savington on doing suspension at once and not being cheap.

My gt2554 track car went from 'suspension + wheels/tires' to 'suspension + wheels/tires + aero + turbo + a bunch of other stuff' between 2 track days. All I did since then was play with boost + brake pads and fix the stuff that broke. My only regret is not starting with Absurdflow/v-band.

jacob300zx

I agree, then add power. Yes, this just happened.

Larimer

iTrader: (4)

This seems like an appropriate place to ask, somewhat... Will I kill myself in a 200-225hp turbo car on track with stock calipers and rotors (94) with but with SS brake lines and some decent fluid and pads? (XP10's or 8's) I haven't done much with the brakes yet and I'm only looking to do 5 or so track days per year.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

If you drive like me, TDH, Emilio, hustler, dtfastbear, thesnowboarder, orion4096, etc, etc, etc, yes. If you drive like a normal driver doing their first track day, not at all. The stock brakes won't be awful, you'll just burn through them much faster than you'd burn through a set of Wilwoods.

Doing a Wilwood/Corrado setup or the new Wilwood 11" kit will save you money if you're fast enough to work the brakes hard.

jacob300zx

I'd run the carbotech xp12 or the cobalt xr2's.

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

If you have to ask that question you aren't driving hard enough to need them right now. You will gradually get more fade and increased wear. At that time you need to upgrade. Until then, run XP12 and pay attention to your brakes. It is obvious when you are driving hard enough to need better brakes.

You could always benefit from bigger brakes, but you may not need them just yet.

Larimer

iTrader: (4)

Did a couple track days with a stock engine and just HP+ pads, none with the turbo car yet. Hell, the turbo isn't even on yet... I'm just trying to be prepared. So no, I'm probably not nearly fast enough to worry about that just yet.

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

nobody breaks brakes like hustler!

jacob300zx

Nobody

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Savington, would you say a GT2554 running on a cast manifold with your studs below about 200hp be almost reliable as your Absurdflow setup?

codrus

You probably won't kill yourself, but you'll find that it's really annoying having to lift halfway down the straight to keep from fading the brake pads.

(I was fading Hawk Blues in stock rotors & calipers at those power numbers).

--Ian

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Power level has very little to do with it, but I do think that the studs are basically as good as the v-bands are.

Scrappy Jack

iTrader: (2)

Let's talk consumables. Specifically, life of NT01s and brake rotors (please specify what you are using).

• How many sessions (and how long are the sessions)? Or, how many days on track?
• What tracks are you frequenting (i.e. "just Sebring" or "most of the West Coast tracks")?
• How do your lap times compare to Spec Miata records at the tracks you run?

And how about on-track fuel economy? For that, please specify fuel type (e.g. 93, E85, C16) and approximate power levels.

Larimer

iTrader: (4)

I checked my mileage at Putnam when I was stock last year and got 15mpg, for comparisons sake.