Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

I picked up a used set of axle and I figured it was a good time to repack them before I installed them. What CV joint grease does everyone recommend? Most street duties now, but hopefully moving towards more track days.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

I don't track, but I've repacked my share of bearings and u-joints in my time. I use plain old high temp bearing grease.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I hear from the honda road race guys that Redline CV grease is supposed to be the best. And god knows they treat their axles like gold on the old god chariots era hondas.

Zachreligious

Redline CV2 - If it's as good for CVs as it is for wheel bearings, it's worth it.

We were going through 2 sets of bearings a weekend in our lemons car - now we're doing 3 races on a set. I'm sold on it.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

CV2 is garbage. Just burns with temp. Amsoil Dominator/2000 race grease is the only way to go.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

Where can we get high quality vented boots?

chris101

iTrader: (7)

We haven't had the best results with the redline stuff either... In a pinch we got marine high temp grease and it was better than the redline (which to me says a lot about the redline stuff) We have not tried the amsoil stuff mentioned though.

compaddict

NEO race grease
Neo Synthetic Oil | The World Leader in Synthetic Lubricants
Haven't tried the CV stuff.. But the WB grease has a very strong following. I am using it now front and rear.

robertcope

The McLaren F1 team apparently uses Mobil greases[1]: "Then there are standard industrial greases from the Synthetic range, SHC1500 for the driveshaft joints and SHC220 for the wheel bearings, they are low friction products with good durability."

I'd be tempted to try that next time I redo some CV joints.

robert

[1] HHonors Race Reporter: McLaren & ExxonMobil – The Ultimate Proving Ground | ScarbsF1.com

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Probably not a mobile 1 grease you can buy. Some NASCAR teams uses M1 products too, you cannot buy the same engine oil that ran the indy 500.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Put a wd40 straw (or any aerosol can straw) in between the boot and the clamping surface, and then clamp it down. The inner side of the boot that is.

Sounds ghetto but it works.

We did this on our Grand AM cars and saw a significant increase in driveshaft life. We now do it to all of our driveshafts.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Coffee stir tube thingys also work for that.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

Vented with a straw like this? Won't it get crushed?

I have these metal air/water syringes from the dental world...hmmm.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Yes, like that. And yes they get crushed. Usually when we rebuild them the old straws look crushed and clogged full of sh*t. Doesn't seem like they would actually do anything, but they do. Our driveshafts last significantly longer with them installed like they are in the picture.

Also, worm-gear clamp? What is that about? Does that work? I guess I've never seen a driveshaft boot clamped with a hose clamp...

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Dumb question of the day: why do we want to vent those?

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

My guess is due to the build up of heat in the joint causes added pressure inside the boot which could lead to premature failure of the boot.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

They balloon up.

twothirdsCobra

iTrader: (3)

I use Green Grease. Excellent stuff that stays put and doesn't liquify. The price is reasonable too.