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Old 03-30-2012, 04:14 AM   #41
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As low as it will go on the track/suspension combo that you run. Mine is probably at 1.5-2" or something.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:47 AM   #42
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Mine's 4", but I do hill climbs which require a bit more clearance than most tracks
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:30 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twibs415 View Post
doubt it

lower is better as less air can flow under the car. there is an optimal distance off the front of the car though.
Thanks, right now I'm trying to figure out how low it should be mounted. As far as how far it extends it is about ~5 to 6in. from the point it leaves the car but sits pretty flush with the furthest leading edge part of the nose. That sound about right?




Wow this post could be taken so many different way
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Old 03-30-2012, 03:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Eunos View Post
As far as how far it extends it is about ~5 to 6in. from the point it leaves the car but sits pretty flush with the furthest leading edge part of the nose. That sound about right?
IIRC for a splitter to work properly it has to be mounted front of the front most part of the bumper so it hits the air first. So I guess 6 inches but not from the point it leaves the car but from the front most point of the bumper nose.

Like this:









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Last edited by j_man; 03-30-2012 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:04 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Handy Man View Post
Mine's 4", but I do hill climbs which require a bit more clearance than most tracks
So not to jack the thread, but I have seen some very thick front splitters on hill climb or Pike's Peak cars. Is this just for strength/durability, or is there an aerodynamic benefit?

Here is the GoPro Pikes Peak car. Look how thick the splitter is at the front. I cannot tell if that is just a front dam with a diffuser behind it or if the whole splitter is that thick.

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Old 04-01-2012, 02:51 PM   #46
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Do you guys use the stock plastic belly pan with your DIY splitter? Or do you fabricate something to close in the sides? My stock plastic belly pan is a mangled piece of junk. What would be a good material to use in order to close up the sides to mate it with my front splitter? I remember someone using plastic/canvas type of material, but I cannot find that thread or remember what it was called.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:57 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgmorr View Post
Do you guys use the stock plastic belly pan with your DIY splitter? Or do you fabricate something to close in the sides? My stock plastic belly pan is a mangled piece of junk. What would be a good material to use in order to close up the sides to mate it with my front splitter? I remember someone using plastic/canvas type of material, but I cannot find that thread or remember what it was called.
genesplicer did a pretty awesome job with his liner if that's what you're thinking of.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:35 PM   #48
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For the guys with plywood splitters, do you do anything to it to help make them more water resistant? How would this hold up on a rain day?
You could also use Thompsons water seal then paint
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:23 PM   #49
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ZX-Tex: I'm not sure about Monster's. I can't think of any other reason to make it so thick. I'd bet its for strength, since pikes peak cars have so much riding on a single run, you don't want a random rock that happens to be laying in your line to ruin it.

Mine's .5" birch ply and has survived a few low speed hits on curbing and such. Most of the other door bangers I race with dont have aero (they mostly focus on POWA!). Of course the formula cars and hill climb specials just use wings on front to get serious down force.

Dgmorr: I don't use the plastic pan with mine, my splitter goes all the way back to the center line of the front wheels (as allowed by the rules for my class). It does make it heavier than it needs to be though. I might try replacing some of the non-load bearing area behind the bumper with a lighter removable material.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:38 PM   #50
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genesplicer did a pretty awesome job with his liner if that's what you're thinking of.
That's the one I'm thinking of, thanks.
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:08 AM   #51
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3yrs in and it's still holding together. I do plan on some aero-updating this year, like these awesome ABS plastic dams with a splitter...
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:10 AM   #52
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Has anyone ever done a touring car style aero for the miata?



Or would it just be overkill?
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:17 AM   #53
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Has anyone ever done a touring car style aero for the miata?



Or would it just be overkill?
Check out the "carbon time attack twins" in the build thread.
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:39 PM   #54
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That Vodafone car gives me a boner.
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:08 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
~$60 spent
3 hours
3 for lowered drag, probably 2 for reduced lift
corrugated plastic and ABS sheet from www.sign-mart.com
coroplast was 3mm white for undertray. ABS sheet was .060 black
Air ducts from Aircraft Spruce

Machine thread screws into subframe though undertray for rear.
Dam had riv-nut inserts in OEM bumper skin then 3m machine screws through dam to hold it on. Ducts are zip tied in place through skin.

Testing this weekend at Auto Club Speedway in Fontana, CA. Looking for less drag than OEM dam we ran at T25 and most of last season.

NASA E1/PTC/TTC. 3 points. It's temporary until we get our complete race nose finished.

Are you using the coroplast under the abs sheet for reinforcement? The black sheet up front is it just abs plastic? and if so.. did you need to make some kind of mounts for the bottom part to hold it up during high speeds?
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:00 AM   #56
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APR Performance 2D wing. We made our own mounts. Not pretty but, functional.

Hey Emilio,

Nice video, always very insightful to see what you've done and why. Crusher's wing mount has inspired me to do the same with our Ciro Design wing for Senna. I'm glad I already have a 2D wing that'll benefit from more rearward/upward mounting. Plus, Scott R's neat idea for a DIY tire rack will fit better on Senna!

We're creating a 3/8" birchwood front splitter also, along the lines of what Savington and Bob have done. I'll post pictures once we have something concrete. The plastic aero work on Bellwilliam's car in this thread is very sexy though, but my modest aero intuition and reading suggests I want to make mistakes with thinner / break-away birchwood first (or just stick with it).

Primarly, I want to make the aero NASA TT/PT and Miata Challenge compliant, even if SCCA Solo XP rules may allow more. As Bob Bundy did, an alternate Solo splitter would make sense and different ride heights vs. track.

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Old 04-18-2012, 01:23 AM   #57
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Class rules state nothing shall protrude beyond the bumper when viewed from above, so that pretty much does away with front splitter, airdam is okay. Also, we are not allowed a wing. So you don't want to add to much front grip.

Here are a few pics.



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Old 04-18-2012, 09:27 AM   #58
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Looks good. Couple questions though. Are you going to cut away the lower part of the bumper, or at least remove that lip? Also, could you have made it any lower? Getting that air dam close to the ground will reduce drag and lift significantly. I'd even consider adding a "soft" plastic skirt that gets REALLY close to the ground if I couldn't run a splitter.
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:01 PM   #59
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crazy idea:

could you tilt the airdam back as it heads down so that you get the benefit of a nearly vertical air dam PLUS a few inches of splitter?

like this: /
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:32 PM   #60
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Would that not create lift?
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