question supercharger mp62 (less power)
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Goleta, Southern California
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^ agreed, belt slippage.
Also try wiring the bypass closed just to eliminate it.
6 rib will be your friend over 10psi. The 4 rib I had running at 12 was sooo tight it was scary. It wouldn't last long before it went down to 10 and had to be tightend to extreme again.
Also try wiring the bypass closed just to eliminate it.
6 rib will be your friend over 10psi. The 4 rib I had running at 12 was sooo tight it was scary. It wouldn't last long before it went down to 10 and had to be tightend to extreme again.
#24
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Looks like commie can help you out. If not call and talk with Tom at fast forward. He's got pulleys and I believe the bracket the tensioner bolts to (maybe).
The harder part is moving the blower forward so the pulleys line up. I ended up using a BRP bracket and modified by drilling extra holes (to slide it all forward). Then I had a machine shop make me a new front support block (longer) to take care of the front portion of the mounting.
You kind of have to piece it together, but it is worth it. I've had zero problems with my setup. No belt adjustments, no worries. I also like knowing I can pull the belt off with just a 3/8" ratchet and still retain p/s and a/c. If anything were to go wrong with the blower, just pull belt and drive home.
The harder part is moving the blower forward so the pulleys line up. I ended up using a BRP bracket and modified by drilling extra holes (to slide it all forward). Then I had a machine shop make me a new front support block (longer) to take care of the front portion of the mounting.
You kind of have to piece it together, but it is worth it. I've had zero problems with my setup. No belt adjustments, no worries. I also like knowing I can pull the belt off with just a 3/8" ratchet and still retain p/s and a/c. If anything were to go wrong with the blower, just pull belt and drive home.
#28
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Looks like there's been some minor case scoring. the front of the case is how it should look.
If you can feel the scoring with a finger nail, I'd very lightly flat it down with 2000 or 3000 grit wet and dry, however as it's the rear of the case with marks, I suspect there may be wear in the rear needle bearings which has allowed the rotors to brush the case. I'd have them replaced.
There are guides on YouTube on replacing the rear needle bearings.
If you can feel the scoring with a finger nail, I'd very lightly flat it down with 2000 or 3000 grit wet and dry, however as it's the rear of the case with marks, I suspect there may be wear in the rear needle bearings which has allowed the rotors to brush the case. I'd have them replaced.
There are guides on YouTube on replacing the rear needle bearings.
#31
Hello Terrorik, any update with you supercharger?
I have got FFS coldside in my 00 miata with Revs MS2 ecu.
I feel that my car lost power little bit, my manifold pressure hits only about 0,4-0,5 bar (0,5 only above 4000-4500 rpm) with my standard 65mm to 105 mm pulley.
Immediatelly after supercharger install it hit 0.5-0.6 bar (0.5bar 3000-3500 rpm)
I haven t got any air leaks, also no belt sleep.
So I checked my supercharger-rotors are without any coating now. When it was new, rotors were coated with any grey ceramic or teflon coating.
I have got only about 20.000 km on my blower from new.
Is it possible to re-coating?
(Is it necessary if it will gone after another next 15.000-20.000km)?
What oil specification should I use to my blower? Any full synthetic differentiall 75W-140 will be fine?
There is blue grease in back of rotor axles/spindles, what type do you recommend?
Do you recommend to exchange also nose bearing?
I have got FFS coldside in my 00 miata with Revs MS2 ecu.
I feel that my car lost power little bit, my manifold pressure hits only about 0,4-0,5 bar (0,5 only above 4000-4500 rpm) with my standard 65mm to 105 mm pulley.
Immediatelly after supercharger install it hit 0.5-0.6 bar (0.5bar 3000-3500 rpm)
I haven t got any air leaks, also no belt sleep.
So I checked my supercharger-rotors are without any coating now. When it was new, rotors were coated with any grey ceramic or teflon coating.
I have got only about 20.000 km on my blower from new.
Is it possible to re-coating?
(Is it necessary if it will gone after another next 15.000-20.000km)?
What oil specification should I use to my blower? Any full synthetic differentiall 75W-140 will be fine?
There is blue grease in back of rotor axles/spindles, what type do you recommend?
Do you recommend to exchange also nose bearing?
#38
A have got stock exhaust with stock cat.
Maybe cat will be blocked with little pieces of rotors coating, who will know?
I do not think that FFS 6 rib tensioner could ever cause belt slippage.
Today I made 120 mm pulley, exchange it for my old 105mm and the car is running now like with new supercharger (or better).
Boost is imediatelly from 2000-2500 rpm (0.2-0.3bars), it hits 0.5 bars from 4000rpm and top is about 0.75bar in 7000rpm redline.
I hope it is safe for my 8.6:1 CR engine. No detonations. Intake manifold temperature is about 55-65 C under the boost with water/methanol injection (5th injector exchange).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqZL...ature=youtu.be
Maybe cat will be blocked with little pieces of rotors coating, who will know?
I do not think that FFS 6 rib tensioner could ever cause belt slippage.
Today I made 120 mm pulley, exchange it for my old 105mm and the car is running now like with new supercharger (or better).
Boost is imediatelly from 2000-2500 rpm (0.2-0.3bars), it hits 0.5 bars from 4000rpm and top is about 0.75bar in 7000rpm redline.
I hope it is safe for my 8.6:1 CR engine. No detonations. Intake manifold temperature is about 55-65 C under the boost with water/methanol injection (5th injector exchange).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqZL...ature=youtu.be