Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

Finally, some real-world feedback about that brace. Thank you sir. I think i'm going to end up with one soon. I wonder if it helps reduce wheel-hop as well.

minime

iTrader: (11)

Van, it appears that brace can be used in conjunction with the rear subframe ladder brace that was added in '94(or was it '93). Anyhow - does your miata have the stock ladder brace as well?

VanMSM

Yup, I have it installed over my stock MSM rear ladder brace.

I'm not sure if it's really intended to fit over the brace since there is a bit of tension on the rear bushings that attach to the ladder brace when bolting it to the PPF. But it's not excessive and works good. I didn't want to remove any of my stock braces.

If I have time I'll try to snap a picture tonight.

VanMSM

Here are some pictures of my brace. Sorry for the poor quality.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

Beefy.

Dlaitini

Now seam welding seems to be the most labor intesive to get done, if you take the time to remove enough stuff to get that done, what about laying even more material, under the seats, but basicly create more boxxed in areas to reinforce the floor there?

Bend a piece of steel and then weld it so it makes the side sills even thicker, possibly boardering on causeign there to be no room between the sides and seat, or even along the trans tunnel, on the interior of the car, along the crease where it meets the floor, length depending on if it interferes with the pedals

i think in january ill be doign this when i head up to my grandparents, ill use his welder, ill have 2-3 weeks to tear everything apart and put it back together

curly

iTrader: (25)

You'd be adding too much weight, and it would take too much time/effort, with little result.

That triangle brace above looks easy enough to copy DIY style. crush the ends of some tubes, drill some holes, and bolt it between the ends of the stock cross brace, and the two diff mount bolts. What were your results/impressions VanMSM?

VanMSM

My impressions/results? I don't really have any hard results. All I can say is I wish this had been one of the first mods I did to my car. Especially considering how easy the install is.

On the track I always had a bit of distrust that I would be able to find 3rd when powering out of a corner at WOT. It's much much better now. I notice the difference in shifter feel when just driving around town.

The biggest drawback is the added tranny/diff noise. I suppose it could get annoying for some.

The second biggest drawback is the ~6 months it took to get this from Japan. It was ordered just as the recession was hitting and it sat in a mostly empty shipping container that took a long time to fill up and finally be shipped.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

So, I've got a Boundary Engineering frame rails on the way, and a Kirk Racing roll bar w/ door bars sitting in the back of the Saab. It's probably going to be a while before I get around to installing them (buying a house), but I wanted to if anyone had a request for which item gets installed first. IE, which is more valuable to find out -- the added stiffness of frame rails to a car with a 6 pt roll bar, or the added stiffness of a 6 pt roll bar to a car with frame rails?

To get even more nit picky, I could even install the roll bar w/o the door bars, and then install the door bars later. Would be a bit more of a hassle, but might be interesting for those who have 4 pt roll bars and want to know if door bars are worth it.

GIGAPUNK

How many pieces does the kirk racing bar come in? How much was it with the dor bars? Any reason you went with the kirk over boss frog or hard dog?

It would be very intersting to see what the addition of door bars does after the install of the 4 pt.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

The Kirk bar is 3 pieces, the roll bar and 2 door bars that fit like sleeves over smaller diameter tube ends on the main bar front legs. I bought it used, (somewhat) locally, along with a lightly used Exedy stock clutch replacement for $325, and I'd read good things about the Kirk Racing bars so cost wise it was an easy choice over a new Hard Dog or Boss Frog.

GIGAPUNK

Sweet deal! I like the height on the kirk bar. I searched a bit and it looks like they go for $400 plus shipping and weigh about 60lbs.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

Is it wrong that I hate you now?

DreadedRed

I have a brace, got it from R Speed a few years back, called the Okuyama drive train brace that looks something like this, a bitch to put on because you had to do it all in the proper sequence, didn't help that the instructions were in Japanese. Ran across where a subframe brace would go, had a plate that attached to the bellhousing. Had the best stiffening of any brace I've installed by far. All have helped, but this one is really amazing. Looked on Rspeed and googled, they still make braces, but not that one.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

I remember seeing it there on one of my many visits for R*Speed... but I never bothered to pick one up. Now I wish I had.

DreadedRed

Doppelgänger

Yeah, for some reason they stopped making that brace. It really was the best brace that I've put on, including the roll bar, it just tightened everything up and made the front feel so much more connected to the rest of the car, I was amazed at how one little brace could do so much. I'm going to be dropping my transmission pretty soon, I'll try to take some photos, if you remember it was a pretty simple thing, it was just how and where it attached that made it work. Only problem with dropping the trans is that I'm scared I won't remember how it went together again. The Japanese directions looked like it would be real easy, ended up taking me like 4 hrs. I 'd get so far, find I couldn't get to something, take it apart, on and on, a nightmare, with proper directions it would probably have taken 1/2 an hour.

Uncle Arthur

That's GOLD!!!!!

My old man said to me when I popped the hood after doing the turbo install that "he finally understood what I'd been trying to achieve all those years throwing money at modifying cars"

On the subject of braces - and the chassis brace being copied here - what's the chance that someone could provide a template so us poor folk on the bottom of the Pacific could make up our own from your measurements?

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Looking for some advice -- the Kirk Racing roll bar I bought used has a fair amount of chips in the paint. I've got a local BMX frame powdercoater that will blast and powdercoat the bar for $200 total ($75 to blast, $125 for the coat). Or I could just strip it myself and spray it.

Worth it to powdercoat it? I'm thinking I'd rather save the $200.

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

Finally installed the Beatrush PPF-subframe brace......

WOW.

Man this thing makes shifting 786349857629487561398-0567.09 times better. No more play in the shifter at WOT, shifting to any gear @ WOT is superfast and easy. Yeah, there is a little more NVH inside the car, but it's only really hear when coasting in neutral with the radio turned down..otherwise the exhaust note and my radio to a great job at drowning out the noise....which sounds like a very muffled sequential gearbox
Overall it's an awesome piece and I'm glad I found something that works for the problem I was having. Couple this with finally getting to wash/wax/clean my car for the first time in 3 weeks.. I took a nice long drive on my way to work today.

VanMSM

Cool! I'm glad my recommendation of the PPF brace didn't lead you astray.

The difference is definitely huge. This is not a subtle mod.

Haha...yeah it does sound a bit like a sequential box!