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I envisioned being able to do this in my garage, but I read that my garage is most likely pretty uneven, so I need to figure out a solution for that. Most likely some thin tiles. I also don't know how I am supposed to get access to all the eccentrics to mess with them anyways. I have a Quickjack (that has been a total POS), but if it is on the jack, then there is no weight to get proper measurements. Putting a jack underneath each tire and getting it to compress isn't a solution for accurate measurements either, so what can I really do?
The vids on that guys site just show the cars sitting on the ground, but that doesn't seem to be the reality of the situation.
Hey Bronson, I read you thread and your fabrication is pretty awesome, but I have zero fab skills and this thing is mostly a street car, so going down that route isn't feasible right now.
I get paid 3 times this month, so I have a lot of extra money, so I don't mind spending the money on that kit I linked in my original post, if it is worth it. It comes with a camber gauge and the dual tape measures for checking toe. It also has some angles on it that somehow let you measure caster, too. I can't say I understand that part of it.
The one thing I don't think I can do with that kit is check the thrust angle? Although I don't really understand that or its effect.
So all I need to do is get some tiles to even out my garage as much as possible, get that kit, then jack the car up and down as I make adjustments and check them?
When I make an adjustment at the eccentric, do I leave it loose when I bring it down to check the measurement, and then jack it back up to torque it down to finalize it?
No I wouldn't mess with something like those a arms for a street car. No you need to cinch down the eccentrics before you lower it or they'll move on you. On top of that you need to Jack the wheel up to close to ride height to keep from binding the bushings.
If you can find a shop that will do more than swing the wrench until the box turns green on the screen then it's a good deal. Most shops barely check toe and won't do any more than get it into the factory alignment window which is a mile wide.
I bought an electronic angle gauge to start getting all the gear to do my own...I simply use the angle gauge as a check now and the more i learned and watch abou thow to do it at home got me to the stage where I simply could not be bothered with the Jack the car up, make an adjustment. lower the car, double check, re jack up the car, make another corrective adjustment and repeat until done.....the hours and / or frustration seems like a no brainer to take it to a shop.
I have been through this process a few times over the years and seems to work out like this....
I use one shop with a laser machine, explain the "race car" situation (race car or not, it helps to ensure at least a slight effort to get it right) and ask them if i can stand by while they do it. Usually the first time or two they can be casual but if you explain why and what needs doing and monitor them, they seem to come around.
....after a few times I find they will offer discount and eventually if its a quick check up they sometimes don't charge. After a time I will give them the opportunity to source tyres for me (if they can price match) and just generally establish a good working relationship.
I make special effort to ensure the underbody area, arms, shock, adjuster etc. are very clean so that the job is as easy and "pleasant" as possible and I eventually get the feeling they "like" working on it as it is so clean, tidy and easy to do.
Using the lift, the laser alignment and getting a print out each time is a big plus. If i had a workshop, access to a lift, decent camber plates, swivel platforms etc. I would definitely do it myself but without just seems like such a hassle.....each to their own though.
I mean if you take a plumb line and measure the top and bottom of your rim, you can get the camber angle. There's only so small of an adjustment you can make to the eccentric bolt (1/16th of a turn, 1/32nd?) before it becomes insignificant.
Without doubting the string method......im not so sure this is true......since getting Extended Lower Ball Joints and switching out my *Subframe for a freshly painted one we can get pretty much whatever we are after.
Its a cam so i guess that if operator is ham fisted maybe you cant do fine adjustment but my impression is that so long as you are squarely in the zone you want, and the laser/machine is on you can get down to a very accurate level.
However I doubt this is that big a deal for street.
* I mention the subframe because it evened up my left to right a lot from the old subframe.
Drive to Lake Oswego, Oregon. I work at a performance shop there with a great alignment machine. About $300 round trip in gas, and $200 in alignment later, and you'll have a great alignment you can enjoy on your trip back. Then don't worry about the alignment of your car. Raise it a little, lower it a little, but stay at the same basic ride height, and your alignment will behave. Focus on other ****, lots of straight roads in NM, no? Start building a 400hp drag Miata and forget about DIY alignments.
Too far? Find a place less than 1300 miles away and your price will really start to drop.
I'm not being rude, you picked a shitty place to live if you care about alignments. Move, or be happy your steering wheel is straight.
Your post is full of all kind of assumptions, but I didn't really lay out my intended use, either.
NM has more dirt roads than paved roads, so I am wanting to get that 3-inch FM lift kit and do some exploring. When I get the occasional days off that line up with a track day, I want to do those too. So I was searching for a solution to save me $100 every time I switch between those two modes. The going rate for an alignment here is $100. I have gotten a custom alignment in the past, but they declined to do that anymore after the guy I used quit. My alignment also shifted after every track day I have ever done, even when I told them to really torque down on the front lower control arm bolts.
New bolts and cams do help for awhile but I inevitably hear a clunk every 2nd or 3rd race meeting.
My assumption is that 1.4 - 1.6g cornering will do that.....I am considering the FM locking cams but they seem like a bit of a pain.
The electronic gauge will probably be good for you in that case. You can buy just the gauge or with a wheel mount. I just use my own made up piece byt will probably get the proper wheel mount eventually.
I linked to the stuff from that same company you just posted in my first post lol. Except that amazon price is insane. You can get the camber gauge and toe/caster plates for $200 directly from them.
Sorry my quick look at the start and i thought they were just toe plates or something.....looks awesome for checking what you have but a regular pain in the *** if you want to change it. up down - adjust, up down- adjust...i cant imagine anything more frustrating and time consuming.
I made a set of stands that have grease plates to let the tires move when chanigng aligment, once rhe aligment is done iput the scales on it and corner weigh it, use a digital angle gauge for camber and measurement berween the aligment exentricwasher mark on the subframe and the rim for rear toe.
withthis stands you dont have to raise the car
every time you make a change.
I made a set of stands that have grease plates to let the tires move when chanigng aligment, once rhe aligment is done iput the scales on it and corner weigh it, use a digital angle gauge for camber and measurement berween the aligment exentricwasher mark on the subframe and the rim for rear toe.
withthis stands you dont have to raise the car
every time you make a change.
I have absolutely no fabrication skills, otherwise those stands would be the perfect solution! I wish Raceramps weren't the most overpriced things in the entire world...
That wouldn't allow the wheels to move, though, so that doesn't fix it either.
03-04-2017, 11:37 PM
DIY alignment equipment
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