Comp engine mounts of hell
12-30-2013, 01:27 AM
#1
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Comp engine mounts of hell
Today I got to installed the mazda comp engine mounts I got from 949. In short, holy baby satan they're horrible. I'm surprised my car didn't fall apart on my trip back to Miami.
So I'm going to be at my parent's till Thursday night before I drive back to Orlando. I really do not want to make the trip with the as it is right. I remember reading a while back some ran a hard mount on the passenger side and a regular on the driver side. It seems to me most if not all the vibration comes from the driver side and though maybe that can help a little.
So I'm going to be at my parent's till Thursday night before I drive back to Orlando. I really do not want to make the trip with the as it is right. I remember reading a while back some ran a hard mount on the passenger side and a regular on the driver side. It seems to me most if not all the vibration comes from the driver side and though maybe that can help a little.
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12-30-2013, 10:55 AM
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I think he's referring to the Mazdacomp mounts as "hard" and asking about running one "soft" (stock) mount just on the side which he judges to be harshest.
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12-30-2013, 11:58 AM
#12
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Mazda Comp Motor Mounts 90-05 Miata
That is what I bought and installed. They're 75 durometer. How could I have installed them wrong. Brackets and mounts were torqued to spec
That is what I bought and installed. They're 75 durometer. How could I have installed them wrong. Brackets and mounts were torqued to spec
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12-30-2013, 12:34 PM
#15
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This? lol not at all... just disappointed that this is turning out the way it did :/ I really can't think of what I could have done wrong. Overtorqued? undertorqued? I used ~40 lb which is what I found somewhere to be the right amount.
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12-30-2013, 12:46 PM
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Something is WRONG with your install, there is hardly any difference between broken stock mounts and new MazdaComp mounts. I am in Ft. Lauderdale, maybe we can meet up and I can take a look and help? I have them in my car along with eurathane diff mounts, and I noticed the switch to the diff mounts way more than the motor mounts.
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12-30-2013, 12:47 PM
#18
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There's four bolts on each mount, one under the subframe, and three on the block. Then there's the two on either end of the rubber itself. I can't see how any amount of torque, loose or tight, could cause harsh vibrations.
I also don't see how you could of screwed up, short of wedging a screwdriver between the metal cup and subframe.
You'd have to drill and tap the block to mismount that side, and there's only one hole in the subframe. My guess is something is screwy with the mount itself (bad batch? Never heard of it though), or something with the metal cup.
A picture might help us all.
I also don't see how you could of screwed up, short of wedging a screwdriver between the metal cup and subframe.
You'd have to drill and tap the block to mismount that side, and there's only one hole in the subframe. My guess is something is screwy with the mount itself (bad batch? Never heard of it though), or something with the metal cup.
A picture might help us all.
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12-30-2013, 01:05 PM
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Yeah, maybe pictures would help in this case.
Is it possible you didn't torque the nut on the stud from the mount that inserts through the subframe?
Maybe the nut rattled off, and now the mount has flexed it's way out of the notch in the subframe allowing for metal to metal contact between the stud and the subframe? Does it look like your engine is sitting at more of an angle than before?
I know that seems obvious, but like everyone else, I don't know what else it could be.
Is it possible you didn't torque the nut on the stud from the mount that inserts through the subframe?
Maybe the nut rattled off, and now the mount has flexed it's way out of the notch in the subframe allowing for metal to metal contact between the stud and the subframe? Does it look like your engine is sitting at more of an angle than before?
I know that seems obvious, but like everyone else, I don't know what else it could be.
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12-30-2013, 01:55 PM
#20
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Here are some pictures. All three bolts that connect to the block and the both nuts that connect to the frame are torqued.
Is hard to see in the picture above but the two bolts in front are in. It's hard to get a shot of there rear but is very much in there
Send me a pm with your info. Where in Ft. Lauderdale are you? I may take you up on that offer
There is a video I took only to show that the engine sounds the same from the outside there is no contact with anything. However an unusual amount of vibration is being transferred to the cabin.
Pictures above all bolts when in without a fuzz when putting things back together.
The notch is definitely where it should be. I don't see the engine being at an angle. I wonder if is a bit higher than before though.
Is hard to see in the picture above but the two bolts in front are in. It's hard to get a shot of there rear but is very much in there
Something is WRONG with your install, there is hardly any difference between broken stock mounts and new MazdaComp mounts. I am in Ft. Lauderdale, maybe we can meet up and I can take a look and help? I have them in my car along with eurathane diff mounts, and I noticed the switch to the diff mounts way more than the motor mounts.
There is a video I took only to show that the engine sounds the same from the outside there is no contact with anything. However an unusual amount of vibration is being transferred to the cabin.
There's four bolts on each mount, one under the subframe, and three on the block. Then there's the two on either end of the rubber itself. I can't see how any amount of torque, loose or tight, could cause harsh vibrations.
I also don't see how you could of screwed up, short of wedging a screwdriver between the metal cup and subframe.
You'd have to drill and tap the block to mismount that side, and there's only one hole in the subframe. My guess is something is screwy with the mount itself (bad batch? Never heard of it though), or something with the metal cup.
A picture might help us all.
I also don't see how you could of screwed up, short of wedging a screwdriver between the metal cup and subframe.
You'd have to drill and tap the block to mismount that side, and there's only one hole in the subframe. My guess is something is screwy with the mount itself (bad batch? Never heard of it though), or something with the metal cup.
A picture might help us all.
Yeah, maybe pictures would help in this case.
Is it possible you didn't torque the nut on the stud from the mount that inserts through the subframe?
Maybe the nut rattled off, and now the mount has flexed it's way out of the notch in the subframe allowing for metal to metal contact between the stud and the subframe? Does it look like your engine is sitting at more of an angle than before?
I know that seems obvious, but like everyone else, I don't know what else it could be.
Is it possible you didn't torque the nut on the stud from the mount that inserts through the subframe?
Maybe the nut rattled off, and now the mount has flexed it's way out of the notch in the subframe allowing for metal to metal contact between the stud and the subframe? Does it look like your engine is sitting at more of an angle than before?
I know that seems obvious, but like everyone else, I don't know what else it could be.
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