The Miata Bushing MEGAthread: Heirarchy, DIY delrin dimensions, info and discussion
#101
Retrofit kit not for Superpro
A heads-up for anyone running Superpro poly bushings - the poly bronze retrofit kit won't fit. Fortunately I discovered this before Sadfab shipped the kit, and I have now upgraded to the delrin.
In fact, anyone running polys not mentioned by Sean should check the bore diameter before ordering, and make sure ALL the diameters line up with the bronze dimensions.
In fact, anyone running polys not mentioned by Sean should check the bore diameter before ordering, and make sure ALL the diameters line up with the bronze dimensions.
#102
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A heads-up for anyone running Superpro poly bushings - the poly bronze retrofit kit won't fit. Fortunately I discovered this before Sadfab shipped the kit, and I have now upgraded to the delrin.
In fact, anyone running polys not mentioned by Sean should check the bore diameter before ordering, and make sure ALL the diameters line up with the bronze dimensions.
In fact, anyone running polys not mentioned by Sean should check the bore diameter before ordering, and make sure ALL the diameters line up with the bronze dimensions.
Poly/bronze has been verified to fit Energy Suspension and Prothane kits. Im almost positive Whiteline uses the same diameters, but im not 100% sure as I have never had a kit in my possession.
#103
I bought some Whiteline bushings for trailing arms in my 323 GTX. The steel sleeves in them were not metric. 3/4" material on one end 1" on the other. I believe Whiteline is an Australian company that has there parts made in Vietnam kind of shocked to see inch sizes. I though SuperPro was Australian as well. Energy Suspension and Prothane are both US companies and I think made in the USA as well.
Last edited by bbundy; 04-01-2016 at 01:49 PM.
#106
Straight 3/4" on the camber bolt locations seems like a bad Idea. Even the energy suspension 7/8" ones come out mushroomed on the ends because of the adjustment slot interface lack of contact area.
#107
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I'm running 1" sleeves in my camber locations. First track day on them is tomorrow. What do you torque them to Bob?
If I were to guess I would agree with Bob. I bet they are not metric.
If I were to guess I would agree with Bob. I bet they are not metric.
#108
for the ends on the bronze bush cam bolt locations. should work perfect.
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
#110
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for the ends on the bronze bush cam bolt locations. should work perfect.
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
#112
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I was thinking about your issue with the ES sleeves deforming. To be fair they are made of some sort of cheese steel. The stuff just seams really soft, like I said, I think its 1008. I have 4 new ES sleeves i might go cut on the lathe for some more anecdote.
And yea, 1144 is nice to machine. Small cuts, its like cast iron, larger cuts, its like a harder but non-sticky aluminium.
And yea, 1144 is nice to machine. Small cuts, its like cast iron, larger cuts, its like a harder but non-sticky aluminium.
Last edited by hi_im_sean; 04-02-2016 at 05:42 PM.
#113
SS Sleeves w/ Delrin+Urethane Combo
Here's what I am working on.
I went with precision ground 416-A stainless for the sleeves. Super easy to machine, great surface finish, and not all that expensive (under $50 for all of the material I needed). I bought 6" of 5/8", 36" of 3/4", and 6" of 7/8" to make everything. Yield strength is 60 ksi which is pretty good, and you could harden them if you had the means (I don't). Took me about 8 hours of work on the lathe to make all this crap though!
Instead of bronze I am using precision Delrin tubing bought from McMaster. It's about 1/4 the cost of bronze, and you can make the bushings one piece because you can cut the tube to whatever length you want. The tolerances are surprisingly good.
I decided to use the ES front upper sleeves as-is, rather than trying to drill out the urethane to fit the 7/8" OD delrin. Later on I might just go with a solid delrin bushing in this location instead. We will see.
I also bead blasted and painted all of my control arms with 2K primer and 2K paint. All of them are tapped for zerks as well. I might cross drill some holes in the delrin bushings to at least have somewhat of a chance of getting grease between the delrin and the stainless. However they are such a close fit and the surfaces are so smooth on each that I doubt the grease would really get in there anyway!
Time to go assemble all of this, and install my brand spankin' new Xidas with spherical tophats at the same time!
I went with precision ground 416-A stainless for the sleeves. Super easy to machine, great surface finish, and not all that expensive (under $50 for all of the material I needed). I bought 6" of 5/8", 36" of 3/4", and 6" of 7/8" to make everything. Yield strength is 60 ksi which is pretty good, and you could harden them if you had the means (I don't). Took me about 8 hours of work on the lathe to make all this crap though!
Instead of bronze I am using precision Delrin tubing bought from McMaster. It's about 1/4 the cost of bronze, and you can make the bushings one piece because you can cut the tube to whatever length you want. The tolerances are surprisingly good.
I decided to use the ES front upper sleeves as-is, rather than trying to drill out the urethane to fit the 7/8" OD delrin. Later on I might just go with a solid delrin bushing in this location instead. We will see.
I also bead blasted and painted all of my control arms with 2K primer and 2K paint. All of them are tapped for zerks as well. I might cross drill some holes in the delrin bushings to at least have somewhat of a chance of getting grease between the delrin and the stainless. However they are such a close fit and the surfaces are so smooth on each that I doubt the grease would really get in there anyway!
Time to go assemble all of this, and install my brand spankin' new Xidas with spherical tophats at the same time!
#115
Another thing that is odd if you are making kits for people with V8R rear Uppers. all the bushings in the rear upper are 2mm longer than stock or anybody else. 58mm instead of 56mm. it requires spreading things a little on the chassis to squeez them in. I made them 56 and they were too narrow had to add length otherwise too much squish and friction.
More data The Whiteline catalog lists their inboard lower sleves as 19mm which I think might actually be 3/4". Their non adjustable front upper is listed at 22.2mm which I think is 7/8" and they don't list any parts for other locations. their offset front upper uses 3/4"
Last edited by bbundy; 04-03-2016 at 11:51 PM.