Darbymx5

So I bought all new rear brakes, quality rebuilt calipers, brackets, rotors and pads.

But, while trying to retract the piston enough to fit over the pads I sheared a few teeth in the adjustment spline.

The piston would not go back anymore, but it would go forward. The extra applied force trying to get it to retract is what sheared the teeth.

So my question is, do I risk breaking the other adjuster screw I have on the other caliper and try again to get it to back out, or did I already ruin the thing?

williams805

iTrader: (2)

I would use the other adjuster and push on the piston at the same time. Just don't damage the other adjuster or you'll be screwed.

If the piston still won't go back far enough, the caliper has other problems.

You had to give your old calipers back as cores right? If you still have them, trade the adjuster gear out of one. Pretty sure the originals had a steel gear.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I grease those adjusters to prevent galling. Plus, you need to be careful and keep pressure applied to engage the gears as fully as possible. +1 to thumb pressure on the piston. Sometimes they rock just enough to stick a little.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

You can get just the adjuster screw from the dealership.

@turbofan had a part number the other day

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

I never actually got the part number XD

but if you go to the parts department they can show you a blown up image of the caliper and it's easy to identify the adjuster.

Darbymx5

Do you guys think the rest of the caliper is okay though? I've always read its easy to screw up then you have to buy another one so im nervous about it, these calipers were a hassle to get.

Also, if turning it so hard that the teeth stripped and it still didn't retract the piston, wouldn't it just do the same thing to another adjuster screw?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I would attempt to extend them prior to retracting them further to ensure the piston isn't stuck.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I think you're fine. +1 to what sixshooter said. The piston got a little bit cocked. Extending it a bit first should free it. Those gears are designed to strip so they don't actually damage anything (the internal one is steel, the one in your hand is a soft metal).

If you try it again while applying a bit of thumb pressure and still no joy, then there's something wrong. Don't strip the gear this time.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

BW0H-26-733. Don't pay more than $9 for it

EricJ

I rebuilt (put new rubber parts in) my calipers this winter. I'd wonder where those little metal pieces went. There's an o'ring around the adjuster bolt that should keep them out of the piston and fluid, but I'd pull the caliper, open the adjuster cover and bang the caliper on the work bench until all the pieces of the adjuster came out.

Rosenthals has the adjusters too: ADJUST GEAR (BW0H-26-733) - $6.55 - BW0H26733