Rotrex Supercharger kits @ 949Racing
 

The Kraftwerks Rotrex supercharger kits for the 01-05 Miata are shipping now
A/C & P/S
P/S & non-A/C

The production non-intercooled kit makes SAE corrected 165whp/142 tq on CA91 on only 5psi. The intake charge is so cool that no timing retard is needed. We typically see no more than 120° IAT, even on the dyno. Extra fuel is provided by the PnP Kraftwerks Super Card controller. CARB approval pending.

The highly compact Rotrex supercharger is nearly silent. It's patented traction drive system allows the compressor wheel to turn 9.49x as fast as the input shaft without the drag or noise or traditional gears. Peak compressor speed on the C30-74 supercharger unit is 120,000 rpm and it boasts 76% efficiency. The unrestricted C30-74 unit flows 38lbs/min, enough for about 300whp if you want to modify or upgrade your kit later on.

The high compressor speed allows the kit to flow a bunch more CFM at low boost, when compared to older technology 1:1 drive ratio centrifugal superchargers.

Kit comes complete with absolutely everything you need to install. No permanent mods to car required, no oil pan drilling. Installation time for a pro mechanic is usually about 2 hours. No dyno tuning needed. Plug it in an peel out.

Complete info on the 949Racing website

http://www.949racing.com/ProductImag..._miata_kit.jpg
http://www.949racing.com/ProductImag..._install_1.jpg

99-05 1-2 weeks out
94-97 3-4 weeks out
complete intercooled kits, coming late 2009
Intercooler upgrade to base kit, late 2009
Non-P/S, non-A/C kits coming this summer

Dyno chart coming in a few days.

Should mention that the kits are available without ECU for those that have their own management solution.

Working a big tube header specifically for the Rotrex. Off the shelf RB and Jackson headers make more power than stock but to once you strap on an intercooler, the engine wil want 1.625 or even 1.75 primaries and 2.5" collector. Header will comes towards the Fall. Prototyping stages now.

dyno
 

Why cheap out in a nice kit and put worm clamps on the charge pipes? Otherwise it looks well put together.

At the modest 5psi boost level this kit runs, worm drive clamps have proven more than sufficient. Remember, this thing isn't something just put together last week. We have been daily driving and track testing this thing for like two years. Expect a very high level of refinement and driveability.

The high boost kits coming later will use a different, constant torque style clamps.

99-00 Rotrex kits are ready
 

The 99-00 kits are ready! Making the same power as the 01-05.

94-97 kits are in final calibration testing now. Hoping to start shipping those by the end of July.

I/C upgrade development is done. Going into production for the brackets and hardware. My guess is August. The only leftover part from upgrading a current base kit to intercooled is the one crossover pipe and swapping for a bigger inlet restrictor. Sweet!

Ill trade you a tri-pod for one of them superchargers.

You should see my drift videos. Dramamine not included.

May I give some advice?

Put that huge wheel onto the miata kit.

Thanks!

Backwards. That'll slow it down.

The OEM 4 rib crank pulley is a 130mm. The standard ATI 6 rib supercharger pulley is 148mm. Base kit has an 88mm 4 rib nose pulley. The one going onto the OGK is an 85mm 6 rib and will be paired with a 148mm ATI damper/pulley. That on a 7000rpm motor should move enough air for about 230whp. When I get around to building an 8500rpm motor, we'll be somewhere in the 250~280whp range I think.

Yeah, I know, every pushes for stupid high boost. We pretty much have the hierarchy planned out so owners will have a cost effective upgrade path to about 230whp with off the shelf parts and a stock engine. Beyond that would require pulling the restrictor and a higher RPM bottom end.

For the guys that are going straight to the track, we recommend starting with a 6 rib race kit and skipping our intake piping, ECU and injectors. That top race kit is essentially what I have so its effectively the prototype for that level. Focus now is on getting the low boost intercooled and NA kits ready.

I think the kit is a great although the price is a little high for the entry level imo. But I like many on here are cheap and diy to the death. I have more fun building a car than driving it.

Will the kit at all bolt to a 1.6 if you were to swap on 1.8 pulleys so that it uses a 4 rib belt?

Nope.

Just got back from the dyno with Bellwilliam's car with a Kraftwerks Race kit (6 rib). Modified Racing Beat header (3" collector), 3" exhaust, E85 fuel, RC550's @ 90% DC, 60psi fuel, Adaptronic, 10x14x3" I/C, otherwise stone stock 99 engine.

240whp/212tq on 9.8psi corrected. William is very happy!

It wanted to make about 280whp which is a bit too much for a stock engine so we pulled almost 10° timing and added .5 points too much E85 to soften top end power. We also used an inlet restrictor about half the size of the compressor inlet. Very low EGT's with E85. Made about 20hp less on 100 race gas. Very safe tune now with the E85.

His car uses the same C30-74 Rotrex that comes with the NB base kits. Have to load the run data into the viewer to make a plot file I can display here. Will try to get that posted by Monday. Its matching the stock torque peak at about 1500rpm and holds over 200ft lbs from 4000-6000rpm.

Race kits available now, contact us for pricing.

The KW1 base kit makes about 160wp on an NB. The KW2 intercooled kit coming in a few months will make about 180whp. The parts that make the KW2 will be available as an upgrade to those that already have KW1's. To go beyond that you'll need bigger injectors and additional engine management that we will develop in the KW3. That kit is still probably 4-5 months away so no price or HP figures yet. The C30-74 used in the base kit will make 280whp uncorked which is way too much power for the stock bottom end so we'll hold it back to about 210whp in the KW3 most likely. Those KW3 kits will be PNP but tuned very conservatively.

Track Dog Racing is planning an intercooler upgrade for the KW1 that they will likely have ready before our KW2.

Alternatively, one can now also order a YouTune kit which is sort of a starter for a DIY build. You provide engine management, tuning, intercooler, pipes, hoses, etc.

Emilio,
I am very interested in a 4 into 1 header with a 3" collector. Been trying to get someone to build one for my nitrous car.

You're on your own there. William's header is a nasty looking thing he had his semi-talented neighbor welder kludge onto an innocent RB header. Nothing we plan on putting into production. Not the right way to increase flow and velocity.

We just complete our big tube stepped header for the Miata. A few more tests to run then we'll release it. Price TBD.

Dyno - prototype race kit on E85
 

KraftWerks Rotrex Race kit prototype on E85 - MX-5 Miata Forum

http://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment...6&d=1261009411

In for 94-97 no P/S and no A/C kit.

Sonofabitch. You ETenn SSM guys are going to kick ass this coming year! Any plans for you to come up to the Finger Lakes Tour? What about Nationals?

This rotrex is going to hit like a SBC!

Man I wish I had the budget for the Rotrex this season. I'll be running in CSP with my ITB setup for 2010. Hopefully learn how to drive my car hard on r-comps and then add more power to it, heh.

Most of the SSM guys are from Mid-Tenn, and yes you better watch out for them all lol. Previous national trophy winners in highly prepped rx-7s and turbo miatas.

A local guy here is running his lotus elise with a BWR s/c kit in SSM. He had been running STM locally N/A and was always close to FTD. I can't wait to see what he'll do with 80 more hp and sticky tires.

I'm going to try to make a few national tours myself, hopefully dixie, finger lakes, and nats. Just got to get my car prepped and prepare myself for an ass beating! This will be just my third year autox'ing, been driving un-prepped STS miatas so CSP will be a fun change.

Rotrex maintenance/reliability?
 

I've been hunting for info on the Rotrex, and waiting for an intercooled '94-97 kit. But I've got a couple of questions...

I haven't seen anything specific about long-term durability, other than simple "they're dead-nuts reliable" statements. What, if anything, typically fails on these things? Does the traction fluid break down or wear out? Does it need to be changed at some point? Does the roller drive wear out?

I suck if these are noob questions that have already been addressed.

We haven't broken any of the small Rotrex units, the C15 in the 94-97 kits or the larger C30 in the 99-05 kits. The only thing that will hurt them are the same things that hurt a turbo: No lubrication, over speeding, surge. The smaller units used in the Miata applications are very tolerant to surge and overspeeding. Unfortunately, we have run William's C30 almost entirely without lube for half a day at an autocross but the unit was none the worse for the wear. Don't do that! Try that with a sleeve or ball bearing turbo and you have stuff going bang.

That's about it. The smaller units used in the Miata applications are pretty much indestructible Every Kraftwerks complete, DIY or Race kit comes with an oil cooler for the Rotrex traction fluid hoses, reservoir, filter and everything needed to keep the Rotrex happy. Recommended traction fluid change intervals are 50k. Run any Rotrex within or at least close to it's redline, keep the Rotrex fluid cooled and it'll run forever.

The Rotrex is mechanically quite a bit more efficient than a Roots type blower so drag on the serpentine belt is lower. The bracket, pulley and tensioner assembly is race proven combination. No belt dusting or other issues. Just as reliable and maintenance free as the belt drive on your A/C or P/S.

Thanks for the quick info! Couple more question... What is the power ceiling of the C15 vs the C30? Could a C30 be fitted to an NA?

Rotrex A/S
Yes.

Do you have a specific power goal in mind?

I'd like to see 200 minimum at the wheels, and maybe as much as 220-230. It's a DD that sees a few track days a year, so I don't want a hand grenade under the hood - and I'd like to keep the bottom end stock if I can. Up top, I've got a stock '99 head ready to go, although I may still do the ex-intake cam swap on it. So with that in mind, am I too far off base?

Also, if I'm looking at the data sheet right, it appears that the C15 maxes out around 200 hp. With that in mind, would I want/need to upgrade to a C30, or would that be overkill?

You will want the C30. You can order a DIY kit right now, figure out your own fueling and piping, or wait for the Kraftwerks production FMIC in a month or two. The production kits for 94-97 making over 200whp are not top priority so I wouldn't expect them until later this year. Until then, you have to start with a either a KW1 base kit or DIY. Kraftwerks has not finalized their engine management solution for the big injectors needed for those power levels.

Just to see what it would do, Oscar has run a C15-60 very close to it's max rpm unrestricted on a stone stock (stock manifold & exhaust) 97 and it made just a tad under 200whp on their conservative dyno on CA91 gas. So figure a breathed on 99 head with a tad more base compression, race gas, blower at max rpm and standalone will likely make 230whp.

The difference between the C15 and C30 in that low 200whp range is that the C15 will be unrestricted so it will be a tad more efficient and have a more linear power band, making peak hp closer to max engine rpm. The C30-74 would develop a tad more torque in the midrange and make peak power at a lower RPM due the the restrictor limiting peak boost up top.

If you are thinking about 230whp on pump gas, you are going to want to build a forged bottom end. For short bursts of street use, stock block is OK. For anything sustained, the stock bottom end on pump gas goes from being a 2000hr motor to a 20hr motor quickly in the 220whp+ range.

Thanks for all the info, Emilio. I hate to keep whipping your ass with questions, but if I think of anything else, I'll let you know. I'll go digest what I've got now...

You'll be surprised to find that I came up with a few more questions...

What do my header choices look like with a Rotrex? Seems to me that its compact size would open things up quite a bit over an MP62 - as far as I know, the Jackson Racing header is about the only mass-market unit that works with that blower.

Will an NB head swap create any screwy fitment issues for an NA kit?

Will the higher-power NA kit use the C30, and will that be compatible with A/C and PS? I only ask because the DIY kit seems to rule out A/C and PS.

Why is the sky blue? (That one's mostly rhetorical...)

1. Any
2. No
3. We don't have a part number for an NA8 4 rib C30 kit for A/C but we could do it easily. Email or call me directly.

Do you need a full PnP kit or do you plan on DIY'inga lot of your build?

4. Refraction

1. Awesome.
2. Awesome.
3. Will do.
3a. Would prefer full PnP if it's in the pipeline, but I'm willing to monkey with it if it's a matter of connecting the dots.
4. You mean it's not because Jeebus is smiling? I may have to begin my downward spiral into hookers and meth now. Dammit.

Emilio-- any news on CARB approval date?

Thanks!

We won't keep it a secret :)

I apologize-- I should have been more specific in my question. When do you expect CARB approval? Are we talking weeks, months, or longer?

Thanks again.

I don't have an ETA.

Emilio--thanks. I will just keep monitoring the forums then. This looks like a great system for me (2002 SE), with the base 160HP unit.

I'm hoping to install something around late summer, so hopefully the calif bureaucrats will get this done!

I expect no CARB rating will be pursued for the I/C upgrade. (Hmmmm, I'm already starting to think of a biannual I/C swap!!)

R/R sounds so easy I wouldn't even consider it a detriment. Just get the damn thing, install it yourself so you know how it goes in, and set aside a few hours before the smog test if need be. Heck, they give you something like a two months warning before the test is due.

I/C set up for the NB's will be CARB.

I haven't noticed any actual difference in handling or suspension set up with and without an STB. I think it's more and NVH thing, just getting rid of some cowl shake.

Any update on the intercooler setup? Also would that be covered under the CARB cert when it gets one?

Have a great day,
Jared

No news. Intercoolers will be part of the CARB approved kits yes.

Sorry for getting stuck on this; I'm in the heavy research phase so pardon my tenacity.

I saw this setup: http://www.papdoc.gr/photos/rotrex/rotrex1600_1.jpg where they seemed to take the intake under and retain the stock STB. Looks like they removed that plastic wall with the relays, and plenty looks different. Your kit looks better resolved, even seems to have thicker tubes. Is rerouting the intake a possibility or is it something thats fixed?

We only offer the kit with the intake as shown, for both the intercooled and non-intercooled versions.

http://949racing.com/images/products...ata_NB_kw1.jpg

it is a 3 hours install.
1. 1 hour for injector plugs,
2. 1 hour for S/C oil cooler piping.
3. 1 hour for charger install.


when you remove and put back stock intake for smog. you don't have to do #1 and #2.

Emilio are the nb racerkits available with the intercooler? If so what is the cost of one?

Have a great day,
Jared

Not sure what you are referring to as the "racerkits".
Exact pricing for the as yet to be released components has not be set yet. Expect the intercooler upgrades to be very affordable.

Pretty much every full Miata kit variation will be available ala carte.

Sorry, I was mistaken. I thought I read at sometime that you refered to the DIY kit as the racers kit. I would like to know when you decide how much the intercooler kit will be to add to the DIY and the carb legal kit. I will be installing an Adaptronic very soon so I would not need the feuling portion but it would be nice to have the Carb cert. I will need ot make up my mind at some point.

I will be removing the PS and A/C soon. Is there going to be a carb legal kit fo that setup? I am shure I could just order it like the DIY style mounting.

Have a great day,
Jared

Emilio, can you tell me if anyone that has bought one of these kits from you lives down in south east florida? Im very interested in driving a rotrex powered miata

To be CARB legal (and to not get Emilio's ass in trouble with CARB) you'll have to buy the whole kit, exactly as certified.

That said what you do with the parts after you get them is up to you...

Has anyone tried the Racing Beat strut tower mount that they sell for use with their cold air intake setup? I just ordered one to try with my JRSC kit, I figured for $36 it was worth a shot in order to be able to keep the STB.

Jim

I sent you a PM

to be CARB legal. ECU has to be sealed. not adjustable in any way. CARB is not that dumb :)

May be you all don't under stand the question. I did mention that I am going to be removing the PS and A/C. If you missed that you may want to read my post again. I am looking to find out it I can run the CARB Legal kit without PS and A/C?

I am not that dumb to think that the carb will not know. They will but I know for a fact that most smog techs will not begin to look for a piggy back ecm. The main reason I would want it is for the smog tech or incase I get pulled over and the clueless cop who thinks he knows everything wants to check my car for mods I can show him the carb cert and send him on his way. After seeing that he is mostlikely not going to be digging to deep. The adaptronic is going to be hidden and if he starts pulling panels in my car I will call my attorney on the sopt and get him to stop. I Have had my smog license in the past. So I know what goes into doing smogs. On top of that I would not be touching the factory ECM it will be in the car.

NB CARB legal kits will be available with pulley setup for no A/C, no P/S.

Thank you for confirming that. How much different is th emounting bracket?

Have a great day,
Jared

Jared, just call me.

emilio, do you have any intent in having the NA kit's for power steering and a/c. i also noticed that there's three different options of "blowers" for the DIY kits(since that's the only NA one available currently through your site)are the horsepower numbers at the wheel or crank?