DIY kits don't have HP ratings, that's up to you and how you set them up.
Complete kits will still be available for all A/C & P/S combinations as they are now.

 

whens the NA coming out then as a "bolt on kit" not the DIY one?

 

No official ETA right now.

 

:thumbsdown:! still deciding which route to take hopefully, the na kit comes out shortly.

 

I'm a little late to this party, but I installed a C15-60 Rotrex in my car (1993 chassis with 1.8 liter BP-4W engine in March. I've driven it at PBIR, Homestead and Sebring, and have been enjoying the extra power.

My car makes 190rwhp after some moderate tuning.

 

granted you have one of the smaller blowers, but i want some more power.

 

Is 230rwhp enough? C30-74 on junkyard BP-4W engine, detuned for stock internals:http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...ghlight=rotrex

How about >300rwhp? C30-94 on a built engine: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...ghlight=rotrex

With the correctly sized Rotrex unit and proper tuning you can hit horsepower targets that will challenge the rest of your drivetrain. I'm staying at modest power levels for longevity and classing restrictions.

 

i'll take the 300 hp,lol. if your staying there for classing that's alright.

 

We will probably never offer a plug and play kit that will make 300whp. You'll have to start with a YouTune kit and work from there. You can do that right now with the kit we already have.

 

Would 190whp be a ballpark figure as to what the C15-60 maxes out at?

Also, have you decided which blower the CARB legal kit will use?

 

Depends on the engine. It'll push enough air for 220whp or so on race gas in an engine that breathes significantly better than a Miata engine. CoralDoc's BP4w head is stock so maybe flowing 203CFM or so. A better flowing, higher VE engine would make more power.

 

With more aggressive tuning, I suspect that ~200rwhp is realistic with my setup. Also, the tuning has been done under pretty warm conditions, ambient temperatures ranged from 90-95 deg. My AFRs at the top end are pretty conservative (~11.5:1 at 6.5psi max boost) since I use 93 octane fuel and the car sees a lot of track duty.

 

get some a/c compatible brackets. then i'd be sold on this setup.

 

Done.

 

so i was wondering, i looked around and searched but cant find a good answer to my question, i was wondering what exactly is the difference between the 4 rib and 6 rib pulleys/belts that you guys offer. on m.net they said with a 6 rib you have less chance of slippage and it popping out but i dont think thats correct.

and if ordered the 6rib, would you also provide the pulley for the 1.8? (its a 4 rib if im not mistaken)

whats a ballpark figure for milage with 230hp? (pump)

thanks again man, and your car sounds mean, saw it at the OC meet a couple weeks ago at diamond jamboree

 

At higher boost levels, the load on the belt is greater. The 6 rib will last longer. We have tested the 4 rib at peak boost levels and they still work though. For a street car, it's fine. For a track car, running consistently above say 230whp or so, I'd suggest a 6 rib set up. The 6 rib isn't a regular production item though. They're custom and made to order, takes 4-6 weeks to get assembled.

I think by mid 2011, Kraftwerks may have a 6 rib conversion kit in regular stock or as an option to the DIY kits.

 

what's the reasoning behind why there's no kit for NA's?

 

Just not ready yet. No ETA at this point.

 

Emilio, I sent you an email regarding the NA SC (prototype) kit I have. Im trying to delete PS & A/C, with this kit that came with the car i bought from Mike. How do I remove the PS pump and go about this ?

 

I'm running a DIY kit on a 1.8 liter engine without A/C and PS. The only modification I had to make was sourcing a different sized belt than the one used in the kit for cars with PS, but no A/C.

P.S. I'm now hitting 196 rwhp with the C15-60 Rotrex on a BP-4W. That's when fully heat soaked at the end of a dyno session.