ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

So last night and this morning I went through the windows in WARI (Adaptronic tuning software) to check the settings and make sure I understand them. I started with the base NB 99-00 map sent out by Travis (from Stein). Below are my comments as I made changes, and also a couple of questions:

Tab Basic Setup, Advanced, Trigger setup page, Injector control window:
- The Current is set to 0.9A and Peak-Hold is checked. For high impedance injectors, should Peak-Hold be selected? I thought that was only for low-impedance injectors.
Answer - use peak-hold:
Injectors drivers setup and what injectors to use?

Tab Basic Setup, advanced, Ignition Control
- For Toyota COPs, the dwell time should be set at 1.5-1.6 ms (1500-1600 us), correct?

Analogue page, MAP sensor type
- Should this be set to 'other' or Adaptronic 3 bar?

Analogue page, Oxygen sensor type
- Set this to 'none' since I will be using the LC-1 serial interface.

TPS calibration
- Need to do this

Knock Sensor
- Need to find a good writeup on tuning the knock sensor.

Corrections, Fuel control, closed loop mode
- Set to 'rapid learning' (was slow converge)
- Unchecked 'do not update cells marked as tuned'

Corrections, fuel control, corrections, cranking fuel
- Rescaled this for 550cc injectors (subtracted 46%). Also rescaled the cranking pulse widths by the same amount.

Corrections, Ignition control, Closed loop Mode, Mode
- Set to open loop right now. Should I wait on adaptive spark tuning until after the fuel map is tuned?

Aux Out
- Aux 2 is for VICS. Set to 4000 RPM right now.

Aux Out
- Aux 6 is only for the radiator fan. How do I set it up to turn on both fans, or do I have to change the wiring (tie triggers together)?
NOTE: Aux 7 is for A/C fan. Looks like I need to do the parallel fan wiring mod. This could be done at the stock ECU connections (I did this with the MS).

Special Functions, second serial port
- Changed to Innovate LC-1

Road Speed, launch control
- Changed from Cut Fuel only to Cut fuel and cut ignition (due to catalytic converter)

Power Cut, safety
- Changed Inst overboost power cut (kPa) to 200
- What is 1 sec overboost?
Answer: Looks like it is to prevent against bad MAP readings?
e420b Power Cut

Power cut, method
- Changed all to cut fuel and cut ignition (due to catalytic converter)

Target AFR
- Changed target AFR values

Power Cut, Safety
- How does Minimum Flat Shift (RPM) work?
You have a choice of cutting fuel and/or spark, it will cut all of which ever method you choose, until the engine drops down below the value you select under "Minimum flat shift (RPM)"

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

This is a big list Lets rock and roll!

I just asked deatschwerks about this becuase I was curious to. My 600ccs are much tougher to tune in pure saturation mode.

Thats what the dwell boxes are set to. I would put this at 1700us just to make sure. A little over-dwell isn't going to do anything but ensure a full spark even under less then optimal voltage.

The Adaptronic 3 Bar just loads the default settings. If you change any of those values then it clicks over to 'other.' It is best to move the values around to get the MAP sensor to read 100-101 Kpa with the motor off.

You can still select Narrowband if you have it plumbed. If for some reason your LC-1 fails it will use your narrowband instead. If you don't have it plumbed just switch to none.

Foot off learn 0% foot on learn 100%

I would probably recommend det cans, to set the filter level of back ground noise. Use a really safe ignition MAP and AFR to do this ofcourse.

You probably should leave 'do not update cells marked as tuned' on and select everything in your fuel map and select that as "untuned" This way your computer can understand what it has done and what it hasn't.

My values with the 600's were much farther then that. I subtracted 67%, but I need to understand deadtime changes when I drove them in peak-hold mode vs saturation.

Yes

Just set your A/C fan to come on at what temperature you want it to. I think I have my thermo fan come on first, then if it goes above a certain temp my A/C fan comes on. The A/C fan doesn't activate the compressor.

I think it is meant to give your EBC or mechanical wastegate a chance to compensate for false, or very short over boost conditions.

The flat shift works off the clutch engagement switch. If you put your foot in and try to rev your car, anything over a certain RPM will get Spark/Fuel cut. This allows you to no-lift shift (Lay on the throttle through the shift) It will force you down the value you choose flat shift to be engaged at but that never happens during driving since the shifts happen pretty quickly.

This is a neat feature, it makes sure you maintain traction through a hard shift, keeps your turbo spooled, and supposedly is even better for your car then coming off the throttle.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Makes sense, good call, I'll do that.

You know I think I did it backwards, and should have subtracted 54%. Oh well it should be close enough to run.


I considered that. But the problem with that is it is possible for the a/c to be running when the fans are not. If the coolant temp is below the fan trigger level (the fans are not running) and the a/c comes on, and you are stopped (no airflow) the condenser will overheat. Been there, done that. I think the parallel fan mod wire is the best way. This way, it is an either/or function. If either the a/c is running or if the coolant is too hot, both fans come on.

Ahh OK got it. Good feature. I think it should be set to less than 1 second though. That would be a lot of ignition events at high RPM if the car was actually overboosting.

OK I'll have to play with that later. I never did set it up for the MS. It seems like one would want to set it for approximately the RPM the engine drops to when you shift (from at or near redline) to the next higher gear. Kind of like a simple heel-toe substitute; I'm sure the purists will be along soon to slam me for that comment.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

So what I am going to do for the parallel fan mod is tie together Aux 6 and Aux 7 on the boomslang harness (red/brown and red/green on the 16 pin connector). That should do the trick. Travis, any objections to that? They are both just connecting to ground (right?) so it should not hurt anything.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

You and me both

I figured it out! I knew the feature was available I just hadn't used it yet. Set your A/C fan to: OR and then select 2 logic channels 10 and 11 lets say. On 10 select A/C and on 11 select:Water temperature and then set the temperature you would like your fan to come on. That solves both problems with one stone, and no hacking of harnesses!

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Ahh well thanks but too late, I already jumpered it at the harness.

That OR feature is bad *** though. That could be useful for a lot of things. For example, I'll have to think about it, but maybe I could use that to turn on the fans if the IAT gets above a certain temperature (to cool down the IC), and/or whenever there is boost above X psi.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

I figured you were already cutting hehe, yea thats how you setup nitrous. You can add those OR channels for MAP and TPS and RPM, you can just keep adding OR's referencing the next channel until you run out of channels.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

I am so close to getting this running. The next big hurdle is plugging in the boomslang. I hate working under that crowded dash... A lot...

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

I remember trying to install the cruise control on the drivers side. I about bled to death trying to get that little box to set up there. I finally gave up and it hangs there today.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

IT RUNS!

I got it started and idling decently enough, then drove it around the neighborhood. It still needs a lot of tuning but damn after months of antici........pation it moved under its own power!

The serial connection on the LC-1 is working, and agrees with the dash gauge hooked up to the LC-1 voltage output. The coolant temps and oil pressure are good. The fans come on either with coolant temp or with the a/c.

The turbo even spooled a tiny bit to 5 psi, though I was taking it easy. The ported shroud whistle is audible. Though I know this statement is a bit ricey, it sounds hella kewl.

I have some exhaust rubbing to fix but no big deal.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

OK so when I display the pages on my old tuning laptop (the one I keep in the car) I cannot see the entire screen, and do not see any scroll bars. Thus I cannot get to items that are below the cutoff. Any suggestions?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

right arrow
down arrow

repeat.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

What is your resolution? I'll try to run it and see if I can figure something out. On mine if you need to go left and right on the tuning map just scroll. It works for up down to. I don't know about some of the configuration settings though.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Oh, yeah, baby! Good deal. I can't wait for a few more to get going so that some of you smarter electronics gurus can finally just tell me "do this and then that" to fix some of my niggling little problems.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

I thought I tried the arrow keys and it did not work but I'll try again.

Data logging works. It creates a comma delimited file that is easy to import into Excel.

It is definitely drivable. It stutters a bit when taking off, shifting, stopping, etc, the usual rough tune stuff. But I will probably be driving it to work Monday. In the upper RPM/load range it is running too rich. But that is better than too lean.

Another question on fuel tuning strategy. To get it running, I just used Stein's base map (with the aforementioned changes) and set the fuel trim to about -42% which is where it seems to idle well. Eventually I would want to get that trim back to 0% (scale the map and other raw values) right? Big deal or no?

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

Hrrrrrrrmmm this is kind of an intersting question. I thought you had trimmed the whole map by -42%. Thats actually a pretty good way to do it. Let it tune in whatever, and then scale the whole map by the -42 percent. Then move your master trim to 0%. Its all equivalent then.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

scroll! scroll what? i open the program on my laptop and the **** is all 50% off the screen. I have to move and resize and then you just hold down the right and down arrows to get it to pan over.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

If you run in window mode(not full screen) there is a left/right scroll. My laptop is 1028X800 and I thought that was low rez. What are you guys at 300X200??

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

OK scrolling with the arrow keys works for the tuning table. But for the other windows it does not.

BUT, it turns out someone set the display to 800x600 and I had not noticed I returned it to native resolution (1400x1050) and now there is no problem. That was the dumbass move du jour for me.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

FWIW, when I start mine now, trim is around 10-12 at cold idle and as it warms up to full temp, trim gradually goes to 0, maybe -1, -2.